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Old 12-12-2015, 11:55 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by romeb View Post
I use the easy pour 2 1/2 gal cans. Much easier to see how much you have poured and easier to control the flow. My Honda generator dealer suggested using a stabilizer in all my gas year round. I use the same gas cans for my snowblower. I never know when the season is over for the snowblower. And I use the generators sometimes for camping, but they are never really put away for an extended time. I never run the snowblower or the generators dry and they all start on the first pull since I started putting stabil in all my gas.
Bingo! I have done this for more than 10 years without any issues. I keep a 2.5 gallon can in the garage with Sea Foam additive. It goes into the mower, snow thrower, edger and my Honda 200i. I suppose I could find a place where I can get "real" gas as they say in Texas but is it really worth it? And, what would I do when I am on the road? If I were having trouble with my small engines then I would look into it. I like my system. It is easy and the extra I pay for the stabilizer is cheap insurance. Like I said, over 10 years and counting, no problems.
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Old 12-12-2015, 03:55 PM   #30
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Question "propane or natural gas is a 'dry' fuel"

Never realized that carbon build-up was 'lubrication'.

Scraped many a head to get rid of all the lube build up.

Bob
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Old 12-12-2015, 03:57 PM   #31
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I don't think he is referring to carbon. Natural gas is a dry fuel and definitely takes its toll on valve faces and seats. Not as bad is propane, but it will wear non-hardened seats and faces more quickly than gas or ethanol blends.
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Old 12-12-2015, 04:41 PM   #32
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Ethanol gas used in Honda Eu2000i

No, not carbon. Personally I haven't seen much carbon in modern engines-- they burn real lean. Back in the leaded gas days it was lead deposits lubricating and cushioning valves. Now it's other stuff added to the fuel I assume. But the base problem is valve and seat wear with other than gasoline blends. Not a petroleum engineer, so don't know the exact details.


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Old 12-12-2015, 05:46 PM   #33
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No, not carbon. Personally I haven't seen much carbon in modern engines-- they burn real lean. Back in the leaded gas days it was lead deposits lubricating and cushioning valves. Now it's other stuff added to the fuel I assume. But the base problem is valve and seat wear with other than gasoline blends. Not a petroleum engineer, so don't know the exact details.


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You are right on the mark in your history as well as current fuels.
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Old 12-12-2015, 10:27 PM   #34
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Any generator should be run dry if it is not used at least once a week or any small engine for that matter.

Perry
Exactly....I have lived 2 blocks from an 10% ethanol station for nearly 25 years, so that is the gas I buy. I drain my small engines when they are going to sit a while. I never have had one with fuel delivery problems. One of my chainsaws is a 1985 model. It still runs like a top....As far as generators go, I have a 150 buck Champion that I have have used twice a month for 3 years. I always let it run dry. Never had an issue.
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Old 12-12-2015, 10:29 PM   #35
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some useful info on various fuels here:
Generator Fuel, What Generator Fuel is Best
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Old 12-13-2015, 11:08 AM   #36
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Long term storage of Honda eu2000i, is it advisable to empty gas tank then start generator to use remaining gas in system & finally drain carb at drain port? I have been informed that the fuel pump diaphragm could become damaged because it is not suspended in gas during storage & it can fail because of this. Also, I would like to store my Honda in a controlled air environment eliminating FL humid conditions. My Hondas are new & is Stabil (Honda recommended) or what about using "Startron or Century" gas stabilizer? Will make every effort to use non-ethanol gas!
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Old 12-13-2015, 03:33 PM   #37
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I installed a petrol shutoff....turn off and let it stall, open bowl drain screw, tip...close.

Tank stays at least 1/2 full with stabilizer added. Gets run on petrol regularly to make sure it's ready for an emergency if needed.

Bob
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:00 PM   #38
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You don't have to install a shutoff switch. After removing the side panel, there is a white connector at the lower right. Just disconnect it and shut "off" the shutdown knob. The fuel will cease to flow, but the ignition will continue. After it stalls, drain the bowl of the few drops left, reconnect the white connector and button up.
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:28 PM   #39
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Thumbs up

snip....."You don't have to install a shutoff switch."

Granted but I did it to make it easier switch back & forth when the LPG regulator is attached.
I always start on petrol, shut off, and open the LPG when it starts to stumble.

The storage benefit is just an added perk.

Bob
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Old 12-13-2015, 04:36 PM   #40
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I getcha, just wanted others to know.....
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:21 PM   #41
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Regular gas cans will work. Just secure them. Don't over think this.
I like a premium gas can like an Eagle. It seals so fumes don't escape. I don't have a pickup and carry the can in the back of my SUV.
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Old 12-16-2015, 01:24 PM   #42
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Long term storage of Honda eu2000i, is it advisable to empty gas tank then start generator to use remaining gas in system & finally drain carb at drain port? I have been informed that the fuel pump diaphragm could become damaged because it is not suspended in gas during storage & it can fail because of this. Also, I would like to store my Honda in a controlled air environment eliminating FL humid conditions. My Hondas are new & is Stabil (Honda recommended) or what about using "Startron or Century" gas stabilizer? Will make every effort to use non-ethanol gas!
There is a slotted screw drain plug at the bottom of the float bowl of your carb.
Run the tank out of fuel and drain the carb float bowl. Even with a stabilizer, ethanol blended gasoline will degrade.
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