Visit our Popular Forums

Fly at Night · 11-01-2011, 04:22 PM

Well, I'm in a real bind now. Phoned dealership to have trailer winterized - they can't take me until Nov. 21st. I wish they told me they were this "popular" when I bought the unit so I would have known.

Woke-up to some frost on the ground. Now I'm worried about hot-water tank; the dealer said to make sure it's drained - or else it might break - $1,000 to replace.

I've been looking and looking at it, trying to find plug.

Can someone please tell me which one of these thing-a-majigs is it? I've looked at manual - didn't help much.

ROBERT CROSS · 11-01-2011, 04:27 PM

This...white plastic six sided thingy!

Fly at Night · 11-01-2011, 04:30 PM

Thanks, Bob. I'll go try now.

**eubank** · 11-01-2011, 04:33 PM

See the pic.

Lynn

TG Twinkie · 11-01-2011, 04:38 PM

It's the white plug on the lower left. Use a 15/16" socket. Open the relief valve after removing the plug. It's at the top just right of center.

Fly at Night · 11-01-2011, 04:48 PM

Boy, that thingy is tighter than a 90 year-old school marm.

Now the hunt is on to find pliers.

Fly at Night · 11-01-2011, 04:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

It's the white plug on the lower left. Use a 15/16" socket. Open the relief valve after removing the plug. It's at the top just right of center.

Hokay. I think I have one of those sockets. Hope I can get this all done before dark. It's starting to get chilly.

Oh, the joys of trailering.

ROBERT CROSS · 11-01-2011, 04:55 PM

Fly,

Use a socket or crescent wench...

Here is a great thread to help.....Start a the beginning and follow John's directions.

Bob

**Kevin245** · 11-01-2011, 05:16 PM

I switched to a ball valve a couple of years ago. Pulling the plug wasn't terribly difficult...just something else I need to go grab a tool for. Now a flip of the lever, open a faucet.

Atwood water heater drain plug - Airstream Forums

50KIP · 11-01-2011, 05:33 PM

The plug is plastic and pliers might mess it up if it is on too tight. Use the 15/16" socket with extension.

w7ts · 11-01-2011, 05:43 PM

I have found it very difficult to get a socket and anything to drive it with into that small area. I use an open end wrench and even then I found it needs to be at sliight angle to the plug.

I replaced the one on my last trailer with a brass plug that has a valve in it. I plan to do the same again as soon as I get a round tuit to work on it with.

Ken

CrawfordGene · 11-01-2011, 06:04 PM

I use channel locks. Be careful of the heat shield just above; it can do nasty things to your fingers or hand. Also, when you get the plug out a lot of water will gush out onto your feet.

There is probably a valve under the 3 bypass valves next to the water heater. That will help drain the water too if you open the bottom bypass valve. However, your 27' is probably set up a bit differently than our 25, but the same principle should apply once you find the bypass valves. There should be 3 drain valves between the tires on the street side. Open them and all the faucets in the trailer to drain the lines and fresh water tank.

You won't get all the water out of the tank and that's ok. There's plenty of room for expansion in the tank.

And then read the thread Bob gives a link to in Post #8.

You can run the furnace tonight set at 40˚ F. Tomorrow you can finish winterizing. Don't let the dealer scare you. Do it yourself and save some money. RV Antifreeze (it is pink) is available lots of stores. Ours took 2 gallons—I guess that's about 9 liters. There's also a bypass kit for the water pump which makes it all a lot simpler.

Gene