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MR AIRSTREAM · 01-20-2006, 01:45 PM

I am in the process of adding a quick coupling to the main gas line by the "A" frame on my 89 Excella for which to hook up a camp stove.

Right now the fittings are all flare type fittings. I need to cut the main line back some in order to accomodate the quick coupling device and wonder if using compression fittings are acceptable in this application. The problem is I don't have a flaring tool to remake the flares as needed.

I will be putting in some new soft copper in order to get back to the gas hose coming out of the regulator.

I guess my concern is how the compression fittings will hold up with the vibration and stresses on the line, which are probably minimal.

Any information greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
phippsto

Ken J · 01-20-2006, 01:54 PM

My understanding is you want to use flair - also make sure you use sch k copper for gas - not the standard hardware store stuff.....

Ken J.

dwightdi · 01-20-2006, 03:04 PM

To conform with the LP gas code you need to use a flair type fitting. Flair tools are pretty cheap if you buy the ones from China. Easy to work and vibration and temperature change proof.

TomW · 01-20-2006, 03:30 PM

I "third" what Ken & dwightdi say about flared fittings. Compression fittings are not code for gas. Also, I agree with that the China-made tools are more than adequate for the small number of flares you need to make.

And, to agree with 87MH before he may or may not post, "...Do it right the first time"

Tom

lewster · 01-20-2006, 05:19 PM

Phippsto,

Ditto on the advice above. Flairs are the only way to go. When you do get a flair tool, be sure to check the alignment of the openings when you clamp it together and be sure that the tool will make double flairs. They should form a perfect circle. If not, look at another one. Harbor Frieght actually sells one of the best out there....short of the $300 pro models that plumbers (and RV techs

) use!

TomW · 01-20-2006, 05:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewster

... be sure that the tool will make double flairs...

My Airstream had no double flares in any of it's gas line joints nor did I make any for the limited amount of gas line work I did.

Tom

overlander63 · 01-20-2006, 05:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lewster

Phippsto,

Ditto on the advice above. Flairs are the only way to go. When you do get a flair tool, be sure to check the alignment of the openings when you clamp it together and be sure that the tool will make double flairs. They should form a perfect circle. If not, look at another one. Harbor Frieght actually sells one of the best out there....short of the $300 pro models that plumbers (and RV techs

) use!

Lew, have you been peeking in my toolbox?

Phippsto, make sure you get the kit that makes double flares, not just single flares. It is a two-part process, the instructions should be on the package or in it. Make sure the kit has the proper size pieces you will need.
Also, a fourth (or fifth) to the advice about the fittings, compression fittings are prone to leak, especially with vibration, so flare fittings are the way to go.

Wardinbb · 01-20-2006, 07:56 PM

I'm reading this thread and WHOA the truth is revealed. Below are shots of my factory installed (1964) LPG lines running to the stove manifold with a splice off to the LPG lantern! You'll note the cut and taped line on the right. I just cut the line apart thinking that I'd put it back together with another compression fitting!
Thanks for the "heads-up" and I gotta say, I've found some other stuff that the factory did that makes a rational mind wonder as well.
Ed

overlander63 · 01-20-2006, 08:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wardinbb

I'm reading this thread and WHOA the truth is revealed. Below are shots of my factory installed (1964) LPG lines running to the stove manifold with a splice off to the LPG lantern! You'll note the cut and taped line on the right. I just cut the line apart thinking that I'd put it back together with another compression fitting!
Thanks for the "heads-up" and I gotta say, I've found some other stuff that the factory did that makes a rational mind wonder as well.
Ed

Ed, you MIGHT find that those fittings are flare fittings. I had some in our '63 I thought were compression fittings. When I took them apart, they were flared, with that weird looking end that you have. Of course, yours may well be compression fittings, only taking one apart will tell for sure.

Wardinbb · 01-20-2006, 08:23 PM

Yes Terry, I disassembled and confirmed before I posted cause I couldn't believe what I was reading. The only flare on that whole set-up is the end connection to the stove manifold. And it was worth hitting the 22 degrees outside and snapping a couple of shots to expose this sort of thing. I sure hope a 3/8 reduction flare T to 1/4 exists!
Ed

overlander63 · 01-20-2006, 08:42 PM

Wow. If they got caught doing that today, they would most likely be strung up by their nether regions!

Wardinbb · 01-20-2006, 09:09 PM

That set-up is scary! Can you imagine that connection leaking and then turning on the stove!? I think its a serious heads-up that us folks with vintage units confirm their connections that run to that lantern. Why they chose to splice off an interior line as opposed to creating a dedicated line from underneath the trailer like all the rest of the LPG lines and why they chose to use compression fittings is again, beyond wonder. And thanks to the Forum, the life that was saved is mine! I really would have just copied what was there on the re-install. The seriousness of that original installation cannot be understated.
Ed

Ken J · 01-20-2006, 09:09 PM

I doubt those are original - all the fittings I've seen going back to my 58 are flair.....

Ken J.

Wardinbb · 01-20-2006, 09:22 PM

I'll disagree with your observation Ken. I took that galley apart very carefully and saw no signs of evidence that any one else had been there. You're right, the fittings are suppossed to be flared and yours are. But I find that the reality is that mine were not, for some reason. The lantern was installed at time of couch assembly, there's no way that the way it's in place for it to be installed in an after market sense. But hey, one can't ever know sometimes, but what I think is important is that an anomaly has shown up and we are all better off knowing about it however it got there.
Ed

MR AIRSTREAM · 01-21-2006, 07:15 AM

Thanks everyone for the input. Sounds like I better stay with flare fittings.

phippsto

jimmickle · 01-21-2006, 07:49 AM

While not necessary with copper like it is with steel, double flares provide a stronger, less likely to split flare. Personally, I always use double flares, and never have leak problems. It only takes an extra minute to do the double flare.

Johndigbydog · 01-21-2006, 08:32 AM

Wardinbb- I think you make an EXCELLENT point! That's what this forum is all about, alerting others and trying to help one another out....the GOOD SAM creedo John

lewster · 01-21-2006, 08:35 AM

Tom W,

While single flares work, the current national gas codes spcify double flares for LP use, especially in TT's and MoHo's. Just trying to keep you around the orum for a while!

Wardinbb · 01-21-2006, 09:02 AM

Gentlemen,
I would certainly appreciate seeing the image of a double flare and the tool that creates it.
Thanking you in advance for your kind attention to this matter.
Ed

Wardinbb · 01-21-2006, 09:49 AM

I found it. So actually the flare is a 2 step process to create the joint. Here's the PIC I found illustrating the double flare. So to adapt one's present flare tool to a double flare, the first step inserts are all that are necessary?
Ed