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Old 09-05-2016, 10:40 PM   #15
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Verify the sail switch, if it has one, is also working properly.


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Pray tell....... what is a sail switch?
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:57 PM   #16
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The sail switch looks like flat blade located where the blower can push air at it. When the blower is running properly the air flow moves the blade. It switches a switch that lets the electronics know the blower is moving air through the combustion chamber and that it's safe to ignite the burner. If the blade is stuck or out of position, the fan runs forever but the furnace does not light.


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Old 09-05-2016, 11:43 PM   #17
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Pray tell....... what is a sail switch?
They call it a sail switch because it's a switch catching the air bowing by like a sail.

rmkrum described it about as good as I could have. Problem is its buried back by the fan and the furnace will probably have to come out to reach it.

This video might help identify it.
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:48 AM   #18
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Interesting. Will wait for circuit board first before I send hubby out for further trouble shooting. He just LOVES this stuff!!!!
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Old 09-07-2016, 05:20 PM   #19
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I'm sure models vary, but virtually all of the "things that can go wrong with a furnace" are accessible from the exterior panel. I had a bad board in my Classic. The guys at ODM (my dealer) had a testing outfit that they plugged into my board. It was "INOP" -- new boarding all goes well. BTW, the sail switch as well as the ignitor unit can be accessed almost as easily as the board itself.
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Old 09-25-2016, 11:08 AM   #20
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Circuit board no fix

So the circuit board new did not solve problem. Hubby back from hunting trip that was wet, cold, muddy and snow also with his tent. So we tried out new circuit board and no ignition. He checked the striker contacts and lifted them a bit and cleaned them out, but a no go. So to get to the sail switch, I would have to pull out the furnace assembly? Is that behind the motor assembly that we had just replaced?
Hubby back out hunting. He waterproofed the bottom of his canvas tent. The snow settled and sagged the bottom which then puddled into the tent. Too bad, so sad, he should have worked on the trailer earlier this summer. But he says he gets better access without the trailer to camp nearer his hunting grounds.
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Old 09-25-2016, 03:46 PM   #21
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"Too bad, so sad, he should have worked on the trailer earlier this summer.But he says he gets better access without the trailer to camp nearer his hunting grounds." feel the sympathy!

Unfortunately the sail switch is accessed from the area where the blower wheel is. The end that's not normally accessible.
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Old 09-25-2016, 03:57 PM   #22
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Quote:
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I'm sure models vary, but virtually all of the "things that can go wrong with a furnace" are accessible from the exterior panel. I had a bad board in my Classic. The guys at ODM (my dealer) had a testing outfit that they plugged into my board. It was "INOP" -- new boarding all goes well. BTW, the sail switch as well as the ignitor unit can be accessed almost as easily as the board itself.
Vintage AS furnace boards etc only from inside front, out side no can do as only exhaust port out side. Bill
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Old 05-10-2017, 02:22 PM   #23
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Sail switch

So we have identified the sail switch. Bought a new circuit board but it made no difference. Original back in. So now that we have identified the sail switch, what is the next trouble shoot step? Furnace will not ignite.
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Old 05-10-2017, 03:14 PM   #24
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First, make sure it is the sail switch. I am having a no-light situation too. Reset the furnace by turning it off and back on with the switch in the furnace (if it has one). Then turn the thermostat up until the blower kicks on. A few seconds later you should hear a click as the gas valve opens and you should smell gas in the exhaust. If no click, or no gas smell it can be the sail switch, the gas valve or the control board. Since you have changed the board, we know that is not it. If you don't hear the click, use a meter or a test light to ensure that the control board is telling the valve to open. If not, change the sail switch. If the control board is sending voltage to the gas valve, change the valve.

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Old 05-20-2017, 08:58 AM   #25
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The Attwood heater in my '15 25FC went out in the middle of the night two nights ago. Woke up at 3AM with inside temp at 40 degrees! We had 6" of snow and 27 degrees that night in Monticello UT. Light on board was flashing a code that indicated either the sail or high limit switches were open. Turned out it was the high limit. Couldnt find any repair service within 100 miles. Found part available online and had it quick shipped to Hanksville UT campground and installed it yesterday. All toasty now. Bought an extra switch for spare. Now if I can get the gas side of the HWH to work!
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Old 05-20-2017, 11:56 PM   #26
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untalking trailer

Our trailer doesn't talk to us. so further investigation.
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Old 05-21-2017, 11:24 AM   #27
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Over the last two years of my ownership, 3 of the gas appliances (furnace, water heater, and frig) stopped working. Partly due to age I suppose and partly due to non use....rig was in storage over 12 years with limited use. In each case the control module was the problem. Once replaced with a Dinosor control module, everything is back to normal.
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Old 05-21-2017, 11:40 AM   #28
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over the last two years of my ownership, 3 of the gas appliances (furnace, water heater, and frig) stopped working. Partly due to age i suppose and partly due to non use....rig was in storage over 12 years with limited use. In each case the control module was the problem. Once replaced with a dinosor control module, everything is back to normal.
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