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Old 07-07-2015, 05:55 AM   #15
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I revved up the fridge 2 burners and the water heater, then set to 11" WC. After shutting them all off, my pressure climbed to a little over 12" WC.

Here's another issue.... The rubber flex line between the regulator and the copper hard line was totally full of oil. I drained about a half pint of the odorant out, this also had an effect on the pressure. Since this is the lowest point of the system, the oil naturally collects there and acts as a point of resistance as well!

Just as a maintenance point, I think everyone should drop that line annually and drain out any oil!
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Old 07-07-2015, 06:18 AM   #16
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Good information.

The June-July issue of Good Sam "Highways" has a good article on RV propane system.

RV Doctor Propane.pdf

RV doctor Propane2.pdf

RV Doctor3.pdf

RV Doctor4.pdf
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Old 07-07-2015, 07:25 AM   #17
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I utilized the stove to tap the gauge into the system (DOWNSTREAM from the stove step-down regulator), so that negates having the stove and oven on for the adjustment.

I made my adjustment to 11" with the furnace, water heater and fridge on propane. The 11" dynamic adjustment resulted in a static pressure of around 13", as I recall.

Everything worked better after the adjustment. I found mine at about 10" static and below 9" dynamic as set from the regulator factory.
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Old 07-07-2015, 08:36 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Top View Post
Good information.

The June-July issue of Good Sam "Highways" has a good article on RV propane system.

Attachment 242383

Attachment 242384

Attachment 242385

Attachment 242386
Very informative. I now understand 11" is the optimum (in the middle of the allowed pressure range) and 14" is the maximum allowed per RV's appliance specifications.
I appreciate you posting this article!
Thanks.
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Old 08-04-2015, 07:29 AM   #19
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Chilling discovery

45 day update....
Since my initial discovery of low propane pressure, I have been very interested in optimizing my fridges performance. I've had fans going for years, one inside the box to circulate air (this is a simple must have) and 2 mounted directly on the cooling tower on the back side of the fridge. I'm convinced these help move hot air out of the cavity and through the roof vent.
My increase in pressure solved my hit weather lackluster fridge performance, but my design thought it if some is good more can be better!
Here is what I discovered!

The spring in my regulator was very squished and never allowed much pressure against the diaphragm, which resulted in really low pressure. I expanded the spring by as much as 3 inches. This gave me 11" WC at the mid point adgustment, but not much more past this. My dynamic pressure stayed just below 11" with everything lit.
I again expanded the spring and this time I got 14" WC. With this new higher pressure my fridge is simply amazing!
I'm currently in Florida. I have been in 107 degree heat indeces for weeks now. My fridge wall is facing the sun, with everyone in and out of the fridge all afternoon, my box temp has not climbed above 37 degrees!
In the past years, I kept an ice chest with drinks as the fridge temps soared sometimes to 50 degrees plus!
I'm certain most if not all warm box temps we all experience are from propane delivery issues! My fridge in the classic is now 22 years old and in my opinion working great!
Kids pop ice thingies freeze in a few hours on the door, and I'm not white knuckle opening the fridge for a quick grab of something!
I'm not suggesting everyone fiddle with their regulator, I am however suggesting a real servicing of their fridges. A flue cleaning, fin cleaning, resolder of all points on the control boards, relocate flame, and most importantly make certain your gas delivery is at the specified pressure!
Like with others, I assumed a brand new, quality branded regulator would be calibrated out of the box..... Not!
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Old 08-05-2015, 02:52 PM   #20
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Where did you get your manometer?
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Old 08-05-2015, 02:55 PM   #21
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Been so long, can't recall! It is a Stewart Warner.
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Old 08-05-2015, 04:20 PM   #22
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Where did you get your manometer?
If you only need one occasionally, it's pretty easy to make a manometer using clear plastic tubing. There are several u-tube videos that show how to make one that fits the burner tube on the range.
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Old 08-05-2015, 06:46 PM   #23
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Chilling discovery

Dometic also offers an inline dial type pressure gauge....
I have one which is pretty spot on. It's nice to keep an eye on things.... You just have to look at it!
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Old 08-05-2015, 07:20 PM   #24
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On our '96, there is a pressure guage on the refer gas line, apparently from the factory. I hadn't seen that before.

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Dometic also
offers an inline dial type pressure gauge....
I have one which is pretty spot on. It's nice to keep an eye on things.... You just have to look at it!
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:03 AM   #25
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What course of action if the regulator is "sealed"? What size do you replace with? 160k or 400k BTU? I found those ratings on some Cavagna made ones.
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Old 08-06-2015, 07:16 AM   #26
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Hmmm, drill and a big hammer?
Mine were both the 400000 btu rated regulators.
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:04 AM   #27
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Hmmm, drill and a big hammer?
Mine were both the 400000 btu rated regulators.
Maybe I should start a different thread on regulators???

Wow, a man after my own heart.. If at first you don't succeed, use a bigger hammer!

Before the days of "set at factory" I would adjust regulators for "desired
Output"... With great success. On others, I have removed the crimped edge but the cheap pot metal crumbles (too big of a hammer? so that I could increase pressure by stretching the spring or cranking down further. This then leaves the hole without a seal... Part of the fix may be gluing on a rubber cap of sorts to cover the evidence of my MANgling...and seal from the elements...

Once in a while I have been successful removing the "seal" by drilling a small hole and prying the plug out.

Bottom line, I have replaced 3 in 3 years for "low performance" or smell of propane... Which would "restore the roar" of proper fuel feed and burn.
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Old 08-07-2015, 10:05 AM   #28
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There is a thread by dznf0g about regulators a few years back. Some good information. Well worth the look.
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