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Old 05-31-2016, 07:49 AM   #15
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With one hand access gonna be difficult at best. I've always used a dremmel to w/cutoff wheel to remove pex clamps. They're soft copper, so maybe a nice new(sharp) dyke might be able to cut away at the band. My factory flush head had a brass attachment point under the pex ( of course, I also had a LOT more space to work in)
If there seems to be any slack in the pex line feeding the flush head, you can always (using a sharp tubing cutter) cut the pex just behind the flush head. To re-clamp make sure to use stainless "step clamps" , you can find them at Lowe's/Home Depot near the pex stuff. Getting a pex wrench up in that area is gonna be impossible. You can use the dyke to clamp the stepless clamp, just don't squeeze the clamp too hard or it'll cut the tab in half.

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Old 07-20-2016, 06:39 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrick p View Post
>>>snip>>> I contacted Airstream and they advised doing this and sent me a good document covering doing this and the schematic of the black tank. But I am still apprehensive about cutting a hole since you could realistically cut the wires to the sensor. <<<snip<<<.
If you still have the document from Airstream, would you mind posting it. I have this project to do in the near future. (same as you and Truxpin did except it's my valves)
What I would really like to know: (in addition to seeing the document)
(1) What size access did you cut?
(2) What tools did you use to make the cut through the metal and what gauge is the metal? (using an electric nipper shear for 14ga is my plan)
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Old 07-27-2016, 12:43 PM   #17
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question on this: Is the outside connector of the factory installed "no-fuss flush" system sanitary? I have not connected it to any potable water hose for fear of contamination, but I'm thinking maybe the vacuum break prevents any backflow. Thoughts?

thanks in advance
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Old 07-27-2016, 03:14 PM   #18
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I use a separate hose to connect to the black flush connection. It's a cheap green hose as opposed to the white potable water hose.

I think it's a safer setup, because I have a sewer solution system for emptying the balks and gray tank, and I just don't trust either of the vacuum breakers fully.

Given all that, the female supply end of both hoses do often end up on the same campground water spigot. I flush the hoses thoroughly when I disconnect and stow them separately. I also use a spray bottle of strong chlorine solution to sanitize the connections and hoses regularly.

Stuff used on gray or black water is in the bumper, the potable stuff is kept separate in the TV bed with other clean things.


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Old 07-27-2016, 07:20 PM   #19
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Thanks. Can you share the mix for the chlorine solution?
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Old 07-27-2016, 07:44 PM   #20
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Black Tank No Fuss Flush

I think it's about a quarter cup in a quart of water. I got the sprayer from one of the big box stores. I don't measure, just pour in a bit of unscented Clorox, and fill up with cold water.

I label the sprayer very clearly, because I use a very similar one to squirt the dogs with plain water if they misbehave. I keep the sanitizer one in the TV box when traveling.

Stronger than that tends to destroy the parts of the sprayer. I store the potable water hose with the ends lightly screwed together to keep them clear of debris.

When I'm ready to hook up, I spray the hose connections, ends of the hose, and the campsite hose valve enough to get them wet. This solution will probably bleach clothing, so aim carefully. Not good for eyes either.

The chlorine concentration will go down with time, so mixing fresh solution occasionally is a good idea. You could dump the tired solution into the fresh water tank or use it for cleanup and sanitizing inside the AS as well.


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