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Old 07-11-2011, 05:07 AM   #1
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Before I go putting gas through lines??

Hello folks,

I was thinking of testing my gas lines but wondering if I should show some pics and see if I did it all right . I have new regulator and tanks from the regulator to the copper I have flex yellow metal 3/4 inch appliance hose . the person that owned this trailer before had run the copper under the belly pan on out side of pan. I am replacing some the copper that was damaged. I was wondering since the copper is exposed should I use cast iron instead of copper?
Thanks for any help good to be back.
Mrcrowley
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:30 AM   #2
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Copper will work just fine,and is a lot easier to run.Just make sure you use a double flare tool.Dave
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Old 07-11-2011, 07:38 AM   #3
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LP Limes

Mrcrowley, Your LP lines SHOULD all run under the trailer and should ONLY be copper. Any other house type gas lines WILL leak/break as they are not designed to deal with the bumps and flexing the trailer does when traveling. If you want to test them use only propane and test (as with home lines/connectors) with bubble solution of dish washing soap and water. DO NOT try to pressurize these lines wth air as they only hold a specific water closet 11 lbs PSI related to the gas. If you are not sure how to test the lines safely get a local propanr supplier to test your lines and connections. Andy R. from InlandRV says to use spiral water hose to cover the under trailer parts of the lines (if) you want something to protect them with. I think you must either install it between connections or cut a slit down the length of the hose and slide it over the copper tubing. Makes perfect sense to me! Be Safe, Ed
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Old 07-11-2011, 08:58 AM   #4
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A safety recall had been issued on yellow flex gas lines. I had it in my house and now cant get at it...so I had to seal off the gas service line. Luckily this was only to a fireplace ....anyone out there with that in their buildings should be aware. I am sure others have it in their RVs. Warning there too.
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:21 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIGED52 View Post
DO NOT try to pressurize these lines wth air as they only hold a specific water closet 11 lbs PSI related to the gas.
I hope this is just a typing error. It should read 11 inches of water column, which is equivalent of 0.5 PSI, not 11 PSI.
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Old 07-11-2011, 10:48 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
I hope this is just a typing error. It should read 11 inches of water column, which is equivalent of 0.5 PSI, not 11 PSI.
My bad,,, It is 11 inches W.C. not PSI... I also see I stated water closet not column... Need to wake up before I post! Thanks for the good catch!!! Ed
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Old 07-11-2011, 11:43 AM   #7
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If you're replacing all lines from scratch, I'd test them at pressure first, plugging the lines outside the trailer so no appliances inside can be subjected to the test pressures. The standard test pressure w/ steel house gas piping is 15 psi, with no drop in 15 minutes ( time appears to vary w/ inspectors). Of course, the copper pipe will take far more than this, but the lower pressure will expose the leaks.

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Old 07-12-2011, 03:55 PM   #8
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I think it`s just down right amazing after all the years,my 48 Spartanette with it`s black iron pipe will still hold 30# pressure as long as you want to leave it on,however I`ve had to reflare several fittings on my 77 AS. Dave
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Old 07-13-2011, 12:13 AM   #9
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Black iron pipe works just fine for gas lines, but it's a pain to run and make up tight. Make sure that pipe is properly supported so pipe isn't subject to bending strains where it enters fittings; schedule 40 pipe is quite thin after threading and so tends to fail at fittings.

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Old 10-04-2011, 07:12 AM   #10
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Double flare or single flare?

There's a mention of double flaring the copper tubing in this thread.
Looking at an original AS connection to the water heater, it appears to be single flare at the gas-cock, on my '69 Overlander.
I'll be installing a new water heater this week, including piping.
Is the propane line to be single, or double flared?
Thanks!
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