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Old 01-07-2008, 09:51 AM   #43
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Devoman, just one small point to add to the good advice above. If you use a stove burner to use up the gas in the lines, you must remember to switch off the gas tap at the stove after the flame is extinguished. My wife lost half her eyelashes and eyebrows one day in our sailing yacht when an explosion occurred through just this cause. We thought it was extra safe to shut the gas off at the bottles after each use. When she turned the bottle back on, gas immediately poured out at the stove. When she lit a match the explosion occurred. Just a thought.
Nick.
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Old 01-08-2008, 09:51 PM   #44
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Good Point Nick!

Never assume the obvious. Here is the revised procedure:

1. Turn off the LP at both bottles.
2. Light a stove burner to use up all gas in the lines.
3. When the stove burner goes out, turn it back off.
4. Disconnect the LP bottles.
5. Start working on other parts of the LP system.
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Old 02-11-2008, 09:00 AM   #45
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I've got a Fisher R966 mfg 1/95. Does anyone know where I can send it to have it refurbished? Thank you. Wally
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Old 02-11-2008, 06:51 PM   #46
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I've got a Fisher R966 mfg 1/95. Does anyone know where I can send it to have it refurbished? Thank you. Wally
BUY A NEW ONE!!! For the price and the safety factors, it's the only way to go!!!!!
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Old 02-12-2008, 07:42 AM   #47
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OK, My current R966 has a footprint( 2 fasteners) that mount on a bracket which slides down a vertical shaft. I believe I want to replicate that footprint so as not to have to re-invent a mounting device. What would I buy to replicate that footprint and where would I buy it? Thank you, Wally Gilbert
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Old 02-12-2008, 08:56 AM   #48
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I've got a Fisher R966 mfg 1/95. Does anyone know where I can send it to have it refurbished? Thank you. Wally
No one repairs LPG regulators, not even Fisher.

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Old 02-12-2008, 05:56 PM   #49
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Originally Posted by wlgilbert40
OK, My current R966 has a footprint( 2 fasteners) that mount on a bracket which slides down a vertical shaft. I believe I want to replicate that footprint so as not to have to re-invent a mounting device. What would I buy to replicate that footprint and where would I buy it? Thank you, Wally Gilbert
Wally,

There are several good regulators on the market (I personally prefer the Cavagna brand) that can be had with a matching mounting bracket that screws right to the regulator and will fit your threaded rod too.
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Old 09-16-2010, 06:43 PM   #50
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Awesome job Joe

Just had my hose crap out. Leek from both sides, no matter where the reg nob is turned. Think I have a problem?! Thanks for your post. I will come in handy in the next two days.


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For this replacement procedure the parts I used and prices I paid were as follows (not including tax):
- One Marshall 254 Automatic Changeover Regulator: $39.95
- One Plastic Regulator Cover: $0.00 (reused the existing one I had, you may need to purchase one depending upon which regulator your trailer currently has)
- One Stamped Steel Regulator Bracket: $4.95
- Two Regulator Mounting Screws: $0.00 (reused existing ones)
- Two 12" High Pressure Hoses with Green Acme Nuts: $13.95 ea. (x2)
- One 30" Low Pressure Hose: $9.95 (the length your trailer may requires could be different)
- One Tube LP Compatible Teflon Joint Paste: $2.19
- One 5/8" x 1/2" Flare Union: $2.49
- Soapy Water: $0.00 (home made - you may chose to substitute a LP gas detector if you have one)

Total Cost: $87.43 (plus tax)

The procedure I used was simple:
1. Dissasemble the existing regulator and hoses and discard.
2. Use a Rat Tail File to enlarge round mounting holes on the Regulator Mounting Bracket so that it will slide onto the LP Tank Hold Down Rod (You may or may not need to do this).
3. Cut/File Off Corners of New Regulator Bracket to provide clearance to LP Tanks when mounted (you may or may not need to do this).
4. Mount Regulator to Bracket using screws.
5. Attach Low Pressure Hose to Regulator using using Teflon Paste to seal the 1/2" NPT (National Pipe Thread) joint.
6. Snap the Plastic Regulator Cover over the 2nd Stage of the Regulator (this cover is required by law).
7. Attach the High Pressure Hoses to the Regulator (these are 1/4" Inverted Flares and do not require Teflon Paste).
8. Slide the Regulator Backet onto the LP Tank Hold Down Rod making sure the upper leg of the bracket is above the LP Tank Hold Down "Tee" and the lower leg is below it.
9. Replace the existing 5/8" x 5/8" Flare Union with the new 5/8" x 1/2" Flare Union where the Low Pressure Hose connects to the copper LP pipe below the trailer tongue (Teflon Paste is not needed because these a flare joints, you may or may not have to do this step depending upon what Union the trailer already has).
10. Connect the Low Pressure Hose to the Flare Union (again no Teflon Paste is required).
11. Connect the High Pressure Hoses to the LP Tanks by twisting on the Green Acme Nuts.
12. Cover all joints with Soapy Water and turn on LP to see if there are any leaks (if you have access to an LP gas detector, use it instead of soapy water to check for leaks).
13. Tighten leaking joints, if any and re-check for leaks (repeat as necessary).
14. Turn on and light LP appliances (simultaneously) to verify adequate LP preasure and flow rate to operate them at the same time.
15. Install LP Tank Cover (if applicable)
16. Install LP Tank Hold Down Handle and tighted to secure tanks and regulator Bracket in place.
17. Put tools away, you are done!

Let me caution you that I am not a mechanic, so if you question anything I have noted here, please investigate and select a course of action that you are comfortable with. I hope I haven't forgotten any steps, but even if I did, you get the general idea of what this replacement project entails. The one step I did omit was that at many places during this procedure I test fit the components to make sure everything fit and the hose lengths were correct, etc.

And note that depending upon your year and model of trailer, the existing regulator, mounting position, and general setup may differ slightly, but the general procedure and parts list should be similar to what I have noted. Check your trailer to be sure - do not rely on my parts list to be exact for your application.

Below I have provided a few before photos, a photo of the original flare Union I had to replace, photos of the new Regulator Bracket before and after modification, and a few after photos. I am missing an "after" photo showing the new Low Pressure Hose and Flare Union installed.

Good Luck to anyone that chooses to tackle this project themself.
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Old 10-10-2010, 11:16 PM   #51
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Bill,
Sorry for the late reply - I am just back home after an extended trip. I hope you were able to replace your regulator successfully. Helping others is why I posted my experience - no need for us all to have the do all the same research.
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