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Old 05-27-2006, 11:53 AM   #15
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Marshall

I had a failure of the original Marshal regulator on my trailer after about 1.5 years... couldn't get more than 4" wc pressure out of it. It was replaced with another Marshal. After one year, the pressure was low and the tech adjusted it all the way open and was able to get 10.5" wc pressure out. He didn't have a new one on hand so we have left it for now... pressure is OK. He showed me the problem... there was a greasy liquid in the regulator that had damaged it. They do not tolerate any kind of liquid inside. He said that this liquid seems to be caused by an interaction of high pressure LP on the inside of a long inlet hose from the LP tank to the regulator. I keep my AS parked with a 25 gal LP can connected to the regulator by a 5 foot length of hose. Apparently, the short hose on the trailer is not a problem. The solution to the problem he says is to have a first stage regulator attached to the LP can so you avoid the high pressure LP in the long hose. I am out 4 months now and things seem OK. I'll see how this works over time.
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Old 05-28-2006, 10:10 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Killo1
Where did you get the Cavagna? How much?
Killo1,

I'm ordering a few on Tuesday. Let me know if you need one. Forum Courtesy Discount applies!
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Old 06-05-2006, 11:02 PM   #17
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Still Frustrated

I have been checking local RV and Propane places as time permits, but they only seem to carry the Marshall 254 (which is actually marked "250" on the housing). One person agreed that this regulator should be mounted high, not low between the tanks (like mine currently is). So far I haven't found anyone that carries any of the other automatic changeover regulators in stock.

I haven't had much time to look into it yet, but remounting the regulator higher under the LP bottle cover poses some issues of how to do so and minimize vibration in the new location, so perhaps keeping it in the current location is best from this standpoint.

As an intertesting side note, I have now found one more automatic changeover regulator that looks very similar to the Cavagna, the Sherwood 730, although I can't currently refind the photo on the web to paste here.

It is begining to look like I may have to try to order a regulator off the web sight unseen, rather than from a local distributor. The key is finding a source that will sell to me directly and not just to a local distributor.

Whodda thunk it would be this hard to avoid a Marshall regulator (the apparent 900 lb. gorilla of the RV Regulator business), given that there are more than a half dozen alternatives.
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Old 06-06-2006, 06:10 AM   #18
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joe

before you give up and go with a lesser unit try calling some co-ops here in central wisconsin.

there are still some fisher regs out there, reasonably priced at that.

try a search for "landmark coop" or "land o lakes coop" see if that gets you anywhere.... if not, pm myself or rickstream and we might be able to help...

john
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Old 06-06-2006, 08:00 PM   #19
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Partial Success

Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd
joe

before you give up and go with a lesser unit try calling some co-ops here in central wisconsin.

there are still some fisher regs out there, reasonably priced at that.

try a search for "landmark coop" or "land o lakes coop" see if that gets you anywhere.... if not, pm myself or rickstream and we might be able to help...

john
John,
Thanks for the tip. I did try a few phone calls today to the coops you suggested, but had no success.

I did have success on a different front today, however. I went to the storage lot and looked over my setup to find out that my current regulator is a Marshall Brass 230 model.

But more importantly, I snuck a look at some newer Airstreams that are stored in the same lot. All appeared to have the Marshall 250/254 as standard equipment. The two late 90's units I looked at still had this valve mounted low between the tanks, but the '05 or '06 model I looked at, by luck, had the bottle cover and bottles removed, so everything was wide open to see. This trailer had the Marshall 254 mounted high between the tanks on a bent steel bracket that mounts to the tank/cover hold down rod and is just secured in place with the big aluminum Tee that secures the bottles and cover. It is so simple it is brilliant. If I had the tools to cut, bend, and drill holes in 1/8" thick steel I could easily make one. But now I am guessing that all I need to do is order one (and new hoses of the approriate length) from Airstream or an Airstream Dealer. The entire changeover will only take a few minutes once I have the parts.
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Old 06-13-2006, 10:47 PM   #20
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Success!!!!

Yesterday I finsihed installation of the new regulator, hoses (including the new Green Acme nuts), and bracket. I checked for leaks with soapy water and found none. I fired up the stove, fridge, and water heater simultaneously and all worked. It's all over but the photo's.

I did take some interim photo's as I was working, but had to make a trip back to the store for a different fitting for the connection between the new regulator outlet hose and the existing copper pipe on the trailer (I needed a 5/8" male to 1/2" male reducing flare union) When I got back to complete the job I forgot my camera. If I get a chance in the near future, I'll download the photo's (still in my camera) including completed photo's when I can get them, as well as a brief description of what parts I used and what steps I took to install those parts.

However, the short version is that there is a readily available stamped steel bracket ($4.95 at my local RV dealer) that can be used to mount the Marshall 254 on the Bottle/Cover hold down rod, where it's inlets are above the outlets on the LP bottles in compliance to Marshall recommendations. I had to modify the bracket slightly with a hacksaw and files, but you might get by not doing so if you are lucky. My total cost for a new regulator, three new hoses, the bracket, and the brass union was under $90, all purchased locally. You might do slightly better if you bought off the internet, but I try to support local vendors if they are close on price. All-in-all not bad for peace of mind. And with the regulator up high under the bottle cover it is easier to read and easier to switch between tanks. And it looks much better than the dirty old one that was there before it.
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Old 07-18-2006, 05:39 PM   #21
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What does it look like

Hey

Wow, all this info is a great help.

could any of you post pictures of what the high/low installation, regulator, tank, tank cover, etc. look like? I am getting my '64 ready to go, and all I have is the plate on the frame for the two tanks, and a dead regulator on a piece of flexy hose bungee corded to the frame. I have no tanks yet, and wonder if I should get come kind of cover for them? How will they attach to the frame?

Thanks

Peter
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Old 07-18-2006, 10:41 PM   #22
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Parts List, Procedure, & Photos

For this replacement procedure the parts I used and prices I paid were as follows (not including tax):
- One Marshall 254 Automatic Changeover Regulator: $39.95
- One Plastic Regulator Cover: $0.00 (reused the existing one I had, you may need to purchase one depending upon which regulator your trailer currently has)
- One Stamped Steel Regulator Bracket: $4.95
- Two Regulator Mounting Screws: $0.00 (reused existing ones)
- Two 12" High Pressure Hoses with Green Acme Nuts: $13.95 ea. (x2)
- One 30" Low Pressure Hose: $9.95 (the length your trailer may requires could be different)
- One Tube LP Compatible Teflon Joint Paste: $2.19
- One 5/8" x 1/2" Flare Union: $2.49
- Soapy Water: $0.00 (home made - you may chose to substitute a LP gas detector if you have one)

Total Cost: $87.43 (plus tax)

The procedure I used was simple:
1. Dissasemble the existing regulator and hoses and discard.
2. Use a Rat Tail File to enlarge round mounting holes on the Regulator Mounting Bracket so that it will slide onto the LP Tank Hold Down Rod (You may or may not need to do this).
3. Cut/File Off Corners of New Regulator Bracket to provide clearance to LP Tanks when mounted (you may or may not need to do this).
4. Mount Regulator to Bracket using screws.
5. Attach Low Pressure Hose to Regulator using using Teflon Paste to seal the 1/2" NPT (National Pipe Thread) joint.
6. Snap the Plastic Regulator Cover over the 2nd Stage of the Regulator (this cover is required by law).
7. Attach the High Pressure Hoses to the Regulator (these are 1/4" Inverted Flares and do not require Teflon Paste).
8. Slide the Regulator Backet onto the LP Tank Hold Down Rod making sure the upper leg of the bracket is above the LP Tank Hold Down "Tee" and the lower leg is below it.
9. Replace the existing 5/8" x 5/8" Flare Union with the new 5/8" x 1/2" Flare Union where the Low Pressure Hose connects to the copper LP pipe below the trailer tongue (Teflon Paste is not needed because these a flare joints, you may or may not have to do this step depending upon what Union the trailer already has).
10. Connect the Low Pressure Hose to the Flare Union (again no Teflon Paste is required).
11. Connect the High Pressure Hoses to the LP Tanks by twisting on the Green Acme Nuts.
12. Cover all joints with Soapy Water and turn on LP to see if there are any leaks (if you have access to an LP gas detector, use it instead of soapy water to check for leaks).
13. Tighten leaking joints, if any and re-check for leaks (repeat as necessary).
14. Turn on and light LP appliances (simultaneously) to verify adequate LP preasure and flow rate to operate them at the same time.
15. Install LP Tank Cover (if applicable)
16. Install LP Tank Hold Down Handle and tighted to secure tanks and regulator Bracket in place.
17. Put tools away, you are done!

Let me caution you that I am not a mechanic, so if you question anything I have noted here, please investigate and select a course of action that you are comfortable with. I hope I haven't forgotten any steps, but even if I did, you get the general idea of what this replacement project entails. The one step I did omit was that at many places during this procedure I test fit the components to make sure everything fit and the hose lengths were correct, etc.

And note that depending upon your year and model of trailer, the existing regulator, mounting position, and general setup may differ slightly, but the general procedure and parts list should be similar to what I have noted. Check your trailer to be sure - do not rely on my parts list to be exact for your application.

Below I have provided a few before photos, a photo of the original flare Union I had to replace, photos of the new Regulator Bracket before and after modification, and a few after photos. I am missing an "after" photo showing the new Low Pressure Hose and Flare Union installed.

Good Luck to anyone that chooses to tackle this project themself.
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Old 07-18-2006, 11:00 PM   #23
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It all works!

I should note that since this installation we have taken a two week vacation where all the new LP components worked perfectly, even when one LP tank ran out of gas!
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Old 07-19-2006, 12:06 AM   #24
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Joe, this is an excellent post which demonstrates the best aspects of our forum. Karma on its way. Nick.
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Old 08-02-2006, 07:50 PM   #25
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Yea!This is right on time.Excellent job,Im going to do the same thing.
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Old 08-02-2006, 08:41 PM   #26
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Hello everyone,
I have been looking at the fischer regulator .My 60 trdwnd had a regulator
that was really well made ,but old and uncertain of its working right.So I
looked at Inlands site and the fischer is really well made also .Anyone tried one of those? i have a marshall now ,but alot of posts about unreliablility.

Scott
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Old 08-02-2006, 09:28 PM   #27
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Quick question: Regulator failure has been discussed in general, and let's assume that if there is insufficient pressure to operate all appliances is a type of failure. What exactly should happen, if both tanks are connected and open, one tank runs out and the red button shows. Should you have to turn off the full working tank to service the empty tank? Or should you be able to switch the valve to the full tank and disconnect the empty while leaving the full tank to service the appliances?

Mine seems to 'leak' propane when only one tank is connected. It does not matter which tank is disconnected and which one is open. It does not matter which way the selector is pointed. Thus when a tank runs out, I'd have to turn off everything, fill it and reconnect before I can run the appliances again. That just sort of goes against the logic of having two tanks to rotate.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 08-02-2006, 09:56 PM   #28
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While I have never personally verified it, I am under the impression that as long as the arrow on the regulator is pointed to the tank that still has LP, you should be able to remove the other tank and refill it without turning the other tank off. If your system still leaks propane in this situation, maybe your automatic changeover regulator has developed a leak and needs to be replaced.

However, even if this is the case, the regulator still provides one valuable service in that it allows you to leave the fridge or furnace running when you are away from the trailer (or asleep) and not have the furnace or fridge turn off due to lack of fuel, potentially ruining food or bursting water lines (assuming both tanks had LP when you turned them on).
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