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Old 08-27-2009, 01:35 PM   #1
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1972 27' Overlander
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Am I in good shape or not?

Hello all,

I have a new-to-me 1972 Overlander. Just got it a few weeks ago. I need to know about the propane cylinders. I don't know anything about them, and haven't used them yet. I've attached a few pics so you know what I have.

(1) Keep these cylinders or replace them?

(2) Do they need new valves?

(3) How about that regulator thing in the middle of them? How do I know if it works? Should it be replaced?

(4) How do you get these things re-filled? Take them off the trailer? Bring the trailer?

Any info shared will be a great help to this newbie.

Thanks,
Nick





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Old 08-27-2009, 01:40 PM   #2
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Sorry, pictures should be attached now.

Thanks,
Nick
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Old 08-27-2009, 01:51 PM   #3
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1978 31' Sovereign
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Aluminum Cylinders

Quote:
Originally Posted by hagnik View Post
(1) Keep these cylinders or replace them?
If it were me, I would keep them - new valves and inspection would be a fraction of the new cost. They look like they are 40 pounders, I may be wrong.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hagnik View Post
(2) Do they need new valves?
Yes, they will need new valves - it may take some searching, but you should be able to find a LP dealer in your area to inspect the tanks and change out the valve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hagnik View Post
(3) How about that regulator thing in the middle of them? How do I know if it works? Should it be replaced?
The same dealer who inspects the tanks should be able to run a test on the regulator. Bear in mind the regulator is probably 35 years old - just for safety's sake you may want to change it out.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hagnik View Post
(4) How do you get these things re-filled? Take them off the trailer? Bring the trailer?
Take them off of the trailer, ditto the regulator. If you bring the regulator in the test will probably be free. It they have to take it off they may charge you time.


Be sure to run a leak off test on the system - also, it would be a good idea to change out all of the flexible and rubber lines in the system. As with all things old most "things" do not work as well as they did 35 or 40 years ago.
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Old 08-27-2009, 02:11 PM   #4
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Those are aluminum tanks - they can be made to SHINE (which may cure you of the desire to shine the Airstream!). Much more expensive, and a bit lighter than the white painted steel ones.

Paula
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Old 08-27-2009, 04:20 PM   #5
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Ditto what Paula and Dennis said. When it comes to LP I would rather spend the money to make sure they are right rather than risk blowing up someone or something. Especially the someone part.

But other than that, congratulations on your new to you Airstream and welcome to the forums.
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Old 08-27-2009, 05:35 PM   #6
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Keep them, drain or use up the propane, the tanks need to be empty before a company.... will change the valves, it should cost aprox. $25 to $40 per tank to have the valves replaced. I hooked my old tank to the back yard BBQ to empty them!
Good Luck!
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Old 08-27-2009, 06:07 PM   #7
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If you have an "AIRGAS" in your area take them to them, I did and they changed out the old valves cost was about 40 each. Mine look justlike yours, then I took them home and shined them up!
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Old 08-27-2009, 06:11 PM   #8
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I don't know if they're 40 pound cylinders or not. Aluminum cylinders are a bit taller than steel cylinders (hence the necessity of special OPD valves).

I want you to inspect the markings on the collar of the bottle. One of them should show "WC" followed by a number. Multiply that number by .42, and the result will tell you the size of the cylinder in pounds of propane.


Lynn
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Old 08-28-2009, 05:47 AM   #9
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Took ours to Post's RV on Morse Road. I put the new valves in but couldn't get them to what seemed fully tightened...

They have a valve wrench for that - so they finished installing the valves when we took them in to be filled - didn't charge us for doing that last step....

If they have to be recertified I recall they have to have them during the week - only one guy there who does it. They seem to be all over steel tanks but much less concerned about the Worthington tanks.....

(is that belt clamp the only thing holding your regulator in place?)
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:14 AM   #10
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1972 27' Overlander
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Thanks for all the useful info.

The markings on the collar say:
TW 16.5
WC 71.5 (30 lb, thanks eubank)
DT 6.0
Date 4 78
12 96 E

What do the "Date" markings suggest? Date it was last certified?

Ganglin - The regulator is held in place by a bracket and one flat-head screw. Looks like the belt clamp is additional support. I can only guess.

Nick
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Old 08-28-2009, 08:29 AM   #11
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The first date (4 78) is the date of manufacture. It would have lasted 12 years. The second date (12 96 E) is the date on which the cylinder was given a visual recertification (hence the "E") and would have last five more years.

You'll likely be getting another visual recertification. Assuming all's ok with the cylinder, the inspector will stamp a new date (with an "E") on the collar, and you'll have a fresh five years of use.

Oh, just for completeness: TW 16.5 refers to the weight of the cylinder when empty. Real obvious from that weight that it's an aluminum cylinder!


Lynn
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Old 09-13-2009, 08:42 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hagnik View Post
thanks for all the useful info.

The markings on the collar say:
Tw 16.5
wc 71.5 (30 lb, thanks eubank)
dt 6.0
date 4 78
12 96 e

what do the "date" markings suggest? Date it was last certified?

Ganglin - the regulator is held in place by a bracket and one flat-head screw. Looks like the belt clamp is additional support. I can only guess.

Nick

i was wondering if you can check for me, thwe size of the thread that connects the corigated (slinky type line) to the copper line that goes to the rest of the trailer. I'm replacing my lines, but the trailer is at my camp. Any help would be appreciated.:d
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