30 lb to 40 lb propane tanks - Question

[A W Warn]

When I bought my 99 Excella it had one aluminum and one steel propane tank, both 30 lb. Since they were different heights the tie down would not work properly. Last year I ran across 2 used 40 lb aluminum tanks so I purchased and installed them. The only thing I did was to extend the tie down rod. The rubber hose that runs between the regulator and the copper tubing was a stretch, but it worked.

This year I noticed the pigtails are starting to get stiff with age and starting to show some deterioration. They have a tag showing date of manufacture was 1999. I assume the regulator is original also. I've decided it is time to replace the 16 year old regulator and flexible hose.

My questions are regarding the 1/2" flexible hose between the regulator and the copper pipe. The original hose on the trailer is ~36" long, the one that came with the 30 lb tanks. It seems to be in tension now, maybe too much. If the trailer would have originally had 40 lb tanks, what length would this hose have been? Should I install a longer one? Anybody have a part number? (there is none for 40 lb tanks in my manual for this year)

Thanks for any suggestions!

[AtomicNo13]

I have original Worthington #40 aluminum tanks. My regulator is situated at the bottom of the tanks. My pigtails are 36".
Any hose shop will re make the pigtails reusing the ACME nut and other fittings. Should cost you $15-20 tops!
Also search for my recent post regarding non calibrated but brand new regulators!

[Protagonist]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

My questions are regarding the 1/2" flexible hose between the regulator and the copper pipe. The original hose on the trailer is ~36" long, the one that came with the 30 lb tanks. It seems to be in tension, maybe too much. If the trailer would have originally had 40 lb tanks, what length would this hose have been? Should I install a longer one? Anybody have a part number? (there is none in my manual for this year)

Thanks for any suggestions!

You don't want too much line. But if 36" almost worked, then 48" seems like a reasonable length, leaving you a bit of slack.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by AtomicNo13

I have original Worthington #40 aluminum tanks. My regulator is situated at the bottom of the tanks. My pigtails are 36".
Any hose shop will re make the pigtails reusing the ACME nut and other fittings. Should cost you $15-20 tops!
Also search for my recent post regarding non calibrated but brand new regulators!

I had not thought of mounting the regulator lower and using longer pigtails.
That might work.
Already read your post. I will be measuring the water column with the appliances operating. Thanks!

[AtomicNo13]

Keep in mind, the lines are high pressure lines, so they need the inner liner, if you're having them made, have ptfe sealant smeared on the ends to seal them. Also renew the bigger flex live between the regulator and hard copper line. I think the oil causes a delamination.
I just assumed all regulators were at the bottom of the tanks!
Good luck!

[cwf]

Originally Posted by AtomicNo13

Keep in mind, the lines are high pressure lines, so they need the inner liner, if you're having them made, have ptfe sealant smeared on the ends to seal them. Also renew the bigger flex live between the regulator and hard copper line. I think the oil causes a delamination.
I just assumed all regulators were at the bottom of the tanks!
Good luck!

Yeah, do not use the "tape" alone. I use the yellow tape and smear with the paste for "gas" plumbing.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by AtomicNo13

Keep in mind, the lines are high pressure lines, so they need the inner liner, if you're having them made, have ptfe sealant smeared on the ends to seal them. Also renew the bigger flex live between the regulator and hard copper line. I think the oil causes a delamination.
I just assumed all regulators were at the bottom of the tanks!
Good luck!

Both of my trailers have propane bottle covers. The regulator in them are mounted high, I assume, to allow for access to the automatic change over valve. After more thought, I would like to keep the regulator in the original position.
I think the suggestion to get a custom made hose would be better, unless someone who has 40 lb tanks on a trailer similar to mine comes through with a measurement or part number.

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by cwf

Yeah, do not use the "tape" alone. I use the yellow tape and smear with the paste for "gas" plumbing.

CWF,
We have the same trailer. Do you have the original 30 lb tanks?

[cwf]

Originally Posted by A W Warn

CWF,
We have the same trailer. Do you have the original 30 lb tanks?

Yes! 30# aluminum with remote electric "gauges".

I replaced the valves and recertified last year. Bought one additional with gauge last year, too.

[nrgtrakr]

My 75 Overlander has 40# tanks, not original. From the bottom of the regulator is a 6" pipe nipple, the bottom hose is connected from that to the soft copper that runs under the belly (on the outside). The all-thread on the clamp has an extention. The individual tanks have two pins each to use at the botttom to help hold them in the rack.

When we got it, the pig tails were stiff, and the bottom hose slightly stiff. I mounted the regulator to the clamp down bracket facing forward and added elbows to the gas inlets to reduce stress on the pig tails. Then ordered pigtails of the appropriate length, in this case 12". For the hose from regulator to soft copper, 3/8 MPT on one end and 5/8 Flare on the other, 24 inches long, I could only find an identical hose, nothing longer, so the pipe nipple stayed.

Next for gas is a tank cover.

[cwf]

Here is pic of the stamped collar:

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by cwf

Yes! 30# aluminum with remote electric "gauges".

I replaced the valves and recertified last year. Bought one additional with gauge last year, too.

My trailer originally had the gauges with sensors like those shown in your photo, but no longer.

[TomKirk]

Why not fabricate an extension with copper tubing??.....something you can install on either end of the hose.

Tom

[bruceganoe]

Watch out for pressure vessel certification on older tanks, can run out of date

[dames7]

Tanks 1999, How old do the tanks have to be before you are required to have them re-certified ?

[BigButtUgly]

I changed over to 1 pound bottles which are refillable with a 20 pounder which is traded when empty. But then again I went to point source use eliminating the furnace, stove and hot water heater. KISS

[cwf]

Here is the link to Texas Railroad Commission rules for LP:
http://www.rrc.state.tx.us/legal/rules/current-rules/

See Chapter 9

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by TomKirk

Why not fabricate an extension with copper tubing??.....something you can install on either end of the hose.

Tom

That's another possibility. Thanks!

[A W Warn]

Originally Posted by dames7

Tanks 1999, How old do the tanks have to be before you are required to have them re-certified ?

Copied and pasted from the interntet:

"Cylinder Certification and Recertification

Cylinders are subject to recertification (also known as requalification) twelve years from their date of manufacture and every five years after that. For example, a cylinder manufactured in January of 2000 will have to be recertified in January of 2012 meaning if you take your bottle to the propane company in April of 2012 to be refilled, it will have to be requalified by authorized personnel before it can be filled."

I had a 1979 tank re-certified last year. As long as a tank passes inspection of it physical condition it's good. The age of a tank has no bearing on the inspection except for frequency of inspections, as far as I know.

[carver 1]

Originally Posted by dames7

Tanks 1999, How old do the tanks have to be before you are required to have them re-certified ?

I believe: Initially 12. Thereafter 10yrs.

>>ron<<