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Old 08-06-2015, 12:12 PM   #15
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40lb Tanks

Tanks 1999, How old do the tanks have to be before you are required to have them re-certified ?
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Old 08-06-2015, 01:10 PM   #16
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I changed over to 1 pound bottles which are refillable with a 20 pounder which is traded when empty. But then again I went to point source use eliminating the furnace, stove and hot water heater. KISS
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Old 08-06-2015, 01:38 PM   #17
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Here is the link to Texas Railroad Commission rules for LP:
http://www.rrc.state.tx.us/legal/rules/current-rules/

See Chapter 9
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:12 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomKirk View Post
Why not fabricate an extension with copper tubing??.....something you can install on either end of the hose.

Tom
That's another possibility. Thanks!
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Old 08-06-2015, 08:17 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dames7 View Post
Tanks 1999, How old do the tanks have to be before you are required to have them re-certified ?
Copied and pasted from the interntet:

"Cylinder Certification and Recertification

Cylinders are subject to recertification (also known as requalification) twelve years from their date of manufacture and every five years after that. For example, a cylinder manufactured in January of 2000 will have to be recertified in January of 2012 meaning if you take your bottle to the propane company in April of 2012 to be refilled, it will have to be requalified by authorized personnel before it can be filled."

I had a 1979 tank re-certified last year. As long as a tank passes inspection of it physical condition it's good. The age of a tank has no bearing on the inspection except for frequency of inspections, as far as I know.
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Old 08-06-2015, 10:28 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dames7 View Post
Tanks 1999, How old do the tanks have to be before you are required to have them re-certified ?
I believe: Initially 12. Thereafter 10yrs.

>>ron<<
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Old 08-06-2015, 11:01 PM   #21
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Quote:
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I believe: Initially 12. Thereafter 10yrs.

>>ron<<
for the facts read this.
http://phmsa.dot.gov/pv_obj_cache/pv..._cylinders.pdf

the initial recertification is 12 years after date manufacture.

further recertifications could be either 12, 7, or 5 years after the initial and other scheduled recertification depending on the type of test/inspection that was used.
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Old 08-07-2015, 04:32 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
for the facts read this.
http://phmsa.dot.gov/pv_obj_cache/pv..._cylinders.pdf

the initial recertification is 12 years after date manufacture.

further recertifications could be either 12, 7, or 5 years after the initial and other scheduled recertification depending on the type of test/inspection that was used.
Alan thanks for correcting my misinformation on the time for re certification.

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Old 08-07-2015, 04:59 AM   #23
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This thread sure got off the subject.

Where I get propane they make new propane lines any length you want. I think they can just replace the hose and reuse your fitting.
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Old 08-07-2015, 08:01 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r carl View Post
This thread sure got off the subject.

Where I get propane they make new propane lines any length you want. I think they can just replace the hose and reuse your fitting.
I think that eventually having a custom made hose is what I will do. That is the most logical solution.

I've learned that, in this or any online forum, no thread goes beyond a few post before it goes off in another direction. Some people call that a hijack. Maybe it is, but that is what make a forum fun and informative.
So, hang on and go with the flow!
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:12 PM   #25
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Someone mentioned using teflon tape etc.

Never use teflon tape or anything else on flare fittings. I hate to count the number of times I've repaired a leak where some nice guy with tools thought he could improve on the simple beauty of the flare joint.

Regular pipe thread, yes ... yellow teflon tape for gas (on black pipe), white for the rest; and appropriate flavor brush on goop if you never want to take the joint apart without a torch or heat gun.
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Old 08-07-2015, 06:42 PM   #26
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When I purchased my AS the tanks were dated 02/05. The pigtail hoses and the main line hose were hard and had surface cracks. I removed the mainline hose and took it to a place in the local industrial section who makes hoses custom. They cut me some hose and I reinstalled it. I purchased the pigtails from CW and the LP tape. Then I replaced the regulator (after reading they are good for only about 10 years- hmm) All that replacement and I had some trouble. That was about three years ago. The tape is crap. I had leaking and could not stop it. Finally one day dad and I were talking and he said to never use that stuff. It can clog up fittings and make a mess. He got his paste seal for fittings (for LP) and put it on. That side worked. I had to replace the pigtail twice then the one side FINALLY worked.

With my "occasional" use I did not catch it but the other pigtail was no good either. Just over a year ago I ran out of LP in 40 degree weather. When I switched the tank over it did not work. What I did NOT know is that the replaced pigtail ON THE OTHER SIDE was also bad. I did not bother with it until a year and a half later- this summer. I went to use the LP and the tank would not work. I went to a CW in Georgia and they told me that there had been a national batch of bad pigtail hoses. Anyway, I got a new one, borrowed their sealant in a can and installed it. Worked great.

Before the trip I purchased a replacement 30# aluminum tank with a gauge from Vintage Trailer. I plan to get a second non-gauge unit later. They are definitely taller than the steel tank. The tanks can be recertified if they are not all rusted and not compromised. The gas dealer I spoke with said that in our area, recertification is much less common than getting a new tank. That said, you can save some money getting tanks certified and doing it all yourself but I do not recommend the LP seal tape. The paste, or tape goes a long way and you want to stop short of the threads near the insert end- don't want any in the orifice.
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