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Old 08-25-2009, 09:06 AM   #1
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2005 25' International CCD
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Worn power cable to tow vehicle

Our Airstream CCD 25 Intl. '05 has been very good to us, wish I could say for my attention to protecting the cable that drapes way too low and should have been "hooked" up with a DRing Clip long ago. Well, the cable began smoldering when bare and frayed wires touched (after we safely go home Thank God) and now the choice is to drive several hours to get the closest Airstream dealer to charge us $300 to replace the entire cable, or as the Service Tech suggested, if there is sufficient length, (which there is) just get a butt connector from a Marine Parts dealer and open the cable, separate the colors, and attach the butt connector. Has anyone tried this? Or have a better suggestion? I do have extended warranty that covers vandalism, but looking at the cable area it seems to be right where it would hand. The actual tear however is not at all frayed and looks as if a "cut" could have been made by a vandal, so who knows?
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Old 08-25-2009, 09:41 AM   #2
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Go to any trailer supply and buy a new 7 wire cable to the length you need, install the connector and hook it up. I think it cost me about 20 bucks to make a new one.

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Old 08-25-2009, 01:13 PM   #3
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The Bargman 7 way cable is part # 55-8587 in Stag Parkway's book. It retails for around $40 bucks and change. Installing it should be a rather straight-forward job.
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Old 08-25-2009, 02:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aerowood View Post
Go to any trailer supply and buy a new 7 wire cable to the length you need, install the connector and hook it up. I think it cost me about 20 bucks to make a new one.

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That's what I was going to suggest too. That cable is standard and comes with the right wiring colour code so it would be an easy job.

We had the misfortune of having our trailer plug pull out and drag on the ground a couple of years ago with a non AS trailer.

I only discovered it when pulling in to an interstate rest stop and realizing I had no trailer brakes!

When I discovered what had happened, The cable had dragged so much that the trailer plug was completely missing!

I limped into a nearby town without brakes and found an RV dealer. He agreed to fix us up right away while we had lunch. Rather than splice into what was left of the cable, he ran a new plug & cable right back to the junction box half way back under the trailer. I'm pretty sure it cost us less that $100 including labour and we were on the road again right after lunch!

$300 sounds pretty steep. I wonder though if it may be more difficult on an AS due to the belly pan. On our old "Award" trailer, everything was totally exposed under the trailer.

Brian.
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Old 08-26-2009, 12:05 AM   #5
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Thanks to all who responded to my dilemna

Our AS has the cable threaded through the frame, up into the belly pan, under the couch, to the back of the converter panel. Not knowing a thing about wiring, I chose to opt for the AS dealer to install the part, and charge
the 2 hour labor and do it right, tested etc. I am hoping that the smoking wire did no damage to my system, either car or AS. When I posted it this morning I thought perhaps a butt plug, marine type would suffice, but again, the wiring, color codes, and unknown damage to anything because of the problem, would make for a questionable fix, and doing it safely by a team that has done this exact job before makes more sense, even though it's more dollars.
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Old 08-26-2009, 12:38 AM   #6
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Hi, click to enlarge picture, and you can see that I wrapped my harness one time around my tongue jack to compensate for being too long.
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Old 08-26-2009, 07:18 AM   #7
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I have a similar problem with my 1990 34' AS. When I bought this trailer the PO had dragged the trailer umbilical cord and someone cut all the wires and butt spliced them together and covered the splices with electrical tape. As a result of bending the cord, the electrical tape stretches and openings occur in the tape. I've placed additional wraps of tape but I'm affraid of water getting in and corroding the splice connections. I' been unispired to replace the cord put have considered it many times. I've heard here on the forums several times about a junction box inside the belly pan on earlier Airstreams. Does anyone know for certain if the 1990 units have a junction box or do I have to remove the couch, pieces of the interior skin etc. to access the circuit breaker panel to terminate that cable?? CharlieE
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:18 AM   #8
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Try this....

Use a d-ring spring pin for the tongue lock too keep the line off the ground.

I also use a zip-tie around the 7-way plug too keep the lock engaged.
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Old 08-26-2009, 09:37 AM   #9
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making me think about "the cure"

I wonder how prevalent this problem is? I think I will modify my set up as follows: 1)cut off the trailer end of the connector cable:2) mount a female 7 pin on the trailer tongue3) connect the cable to this female 7 pin. (this gives you two females-one on the AS, one on the TV) 4) using the remainder of the umbilical, make up a double ended MALE 7 pin that will connect to the AS and TV. Use the zip tie at least on the trailer end. 5) when $ and time permits, make up another male to male umbilical, in case you foul up the original-put it in your spare parts box....
then, you have no need to limp without brakes, you can avoid the major expense of having a 3rd party rescue you, and you learn how to make up 12vdc cables using good wiring techniques (assuming, of course, you have done your homework).
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Old 08-26-2009, 11:08 AM   #10
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I think I will modify my set up as follows: 1)cut off the trailer end of the connector cable:2) mount a female 7 pin on the trailer tongue3) connect the cable to this female 7 pin. (this gives you two females-one on the AS, one on the TV) 4) using the remainder of the umbilical, make up a double ended MALE 7 pin that will connect to the AS and TV. Use the zip tie at least on the trailer end. 5) when $ and time permits, make up another male to male umbilical, in case you foul up the original-put it in your spare parts box....
That's the way our 1960 Pacer came wired from the factory (I assume), except that it had the old 6-pin connector (with round pins). I replaced the 6-pin female connector on the trailer with the current standard 7-pin one (which conveniently fit the same mounting holes) and made a double-ended cable to go between the tow vehicle connector and the trailer connector. Worked fine. The only down side is that you have added a bunch of potential bad connections in two additional connectors. But it sure does make it easy to replace the cable if necessary.
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Old 08-26-2009, 11:25 AM   #11
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each splice you make drops the voltage and opens you up to more corroded connections. put a stretchy cord from the female plug to the tow veh.
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Old 08-26-2009, 01:32 PM   #12
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Smile 7 Pin Cable

When I purchased my 25' AS the PO had dragged the connection cable on the ground and had taped it up. I was ok but it seemed short because of my Hensley hitch. I purchased a longer cable and wired it with connections in the area of the converter. It was straight forward and cost about $40 for the cable. I have tied the cable up with wraps with the proper loop so it will not drag. I also put a small bungie cord around the connector plug so that bumps and vibration will not allow it to become ajar.
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