Help and advice with minor problems

[Hit'the'road]

Hi all!

Ok, I've had my new, 2005 CCD for about a month and a half. There are a couple of things that I've noticed that don't seem quite right. I need some advice from all the wise ones out there.

1) The pressure relief valve on the water heater seeps, dribbles actually, when the water heater is on. The instructions on the access panel say to see the owner's manual for weeping valves. My Airstream binder doesn't seem to have a water heater owner's manual. I do have two heater manuals, however. Does anybody know what I need to do to get this valve to stop leaking? Doesn't seem worth a trip all the way back to the dealer.

2) Hard closing door. I have to really slam the door hard to get it to close tightly. I keep expecting a Mercedes Benz type of "swoosh... click" sound, instead I have a deafening bang. There's no sneaking in and quietly closing the door here. I even found a popped rivet on the floor the other day. It was one of the rivets next to the door. When I look closely at the door, it seems that the screen door isn't really closing tightly. It seems like bending the screen door hinge somewhat would help it to close more tightly. I'm reluctant to start bending things yet. Are Airstream doors hard closing? Is my Mercedes expectation unrealistic? Any quick fix ideas? And what do I do about that popped rivet?

3) Water dripping from under rear. I noticed a small drip of water from the sheet metal that covers the underbelly near the bumper. When I flipped the metal down and looked under it, there was even more water and the insulation was all wet. I immediately thought there was a leak in the shower or something like that, but I'm not sure. Is it possible for there to be condensation between the inner and outer skins and that is what might be dripping out? Does that mean the insulation is always going to be wet as long as there is condensation?

I've thought of making a list of all of my concerns and heading back to the dealer, but so far the list doesn't seem long enough to justify such a trip, plus who wants to camp out in the dealers parking lot. Better to start here at the fountain of all airstream wisdom.

Some things have already been crossed off my complaint list. The tank monitoring system seems to have miraculously healed itself and is reading somewhat accurately the tank levels. Now that I've written that sentence I am sure it is doomed to fail.

The galley counter extension wasn't installed at the factory. OOPS.... After several calls I got connected to the right person who immediately sent out the counter and hinges (I guess, you're on your own for screws and instructions.) I figured it out and got it installed.

I know some of these things must seem so minor, expecially to those of you who are completely redoing a vintage model, but one of the reasons I went with a brand new model was so everything would be perfect and I wouldn't have to spend anytime fixing stuff, at least for awhile. It seems like for $50K everything should be pretty near perfect. Don't even get me started on tool marks, odd linoleum cuts etc.

Thanks in advance for your help!

[john hd]

i think i can help with the water heater valve problem...

you have no air space in the top of the tank, there is a certain amount of air that is trapped in the heater. this is to allow for expansion as the water heats up.

over time the air will be absorbed into the water, leaving no space. the relief valve will dribble as it is designed.

you can remedy this by draining the tank through the plug on the bottom and refilling it. this restores the air space.

it is not a bad practice to drain the heater a couple times a year to remove sediment and scale. and restore the air space.

john

[sovereignrwe]

Any chance that dribble is running along between the skins and coming out near the bumper?

[flyfisher]

Originally Posted by Hit'the'road

Hi all!

Ok, I've had my new, 2005 CCD for about a month and a half. There are a couple of things that I've noticed that don't seem quite right. I need some advice from all the wise ones out there.

1) The pressure relief valve on the water heater seeps, dribbles actually, when the water heater is on. The instructions on the access panel say to see the owner's manual for weeping valves. My Airstream binder doesn't seem to have a water heater owner's manual. I do have two heater manuals, however. Does anybody know what I need to do to get this valve to stop leaking? Doesn't seem worth a trip all the way back to the dealer.

2) Hard closing door. I have to really slam the door hard to get it to close tightly. I keep expecting a Mercedes Benz type of "swoosh... click" sound, instead I have a deafening bang. There's no sneaking in and quietly closing the door here. I even found a popped rivet on the floor the other day. It was one of the rivets next to the door. When I look closely at the door, it seems that the screen door isn't really closing tightly. It seems like bending the screen door hinge somewhat would help it to close more tightly. I'm reluctant to start bending things yet. Are Airstream doors hard closing? Is my Mercedes expectation unrealistic? Any quick fix ideas? And what do I do about that popped rivet?

3) Water dripping from under rear. I noticed a small drip of water from the sheet metal that covers the underbelly near the bumper. When I flipped the metal down and looked under it, there was even more water and the insulation was all wet. I immediately thought there was a leak in the shower or something like that, but I'm not sure. Is it possible for there to be condensation between the inner and outer skins and that is what might be dripping out? Does that mean the insulation is always going to be wet as long as there is condensation?

I've thought of making a list of all of my concerns and heading back to the dealer, but so far the list doesn't seem long enough to justify such a trip, plus who wants to camp out in the dealers parking lot. Better to start here at the fountain of all airstream wisdom.

Some things have already been crossed off my complaint list. The tank monitoring system seems to have miraculously healed itself and is reading somewhat accurately the tank levels. Now that I've written that sentence I am sure it is doomed to fail.

The galley counter extension wasn't installed at the factory. OOPS.... After several calls I got connected to the right person who immediately sent out the counter and hinges (I guess, you're on your own for screws and instructions.) I figured it out and got it installed.

I know some of these things must seem so minor, expecially to those of you who are completely redoing a vintage model, but one of the reasons I went with a brand new model was so everything would be perfect and I wouldn't have to spend anytime fixing stuff, at least for awhile. It seems like for $50K everything should be pretty near perfect. Don't even get me started on tool marks, odd linoleum cuts etc.

Thanks in advance for your help!

I'm kind of new to the wonderful world of Airstream, but I'll offer you my $0.02 of advice.

My outside door is hard to close as well, and I have to shut it pretty hard. There's a 2-stop latch. If you shut it easily, just the 1st part of the latch catches and it doesn't close all the way shut. However, there shouldn't be any bending or bowing on either the inside or the screen door. And, I'd certainly be concerned if that rivet you found came oot as a result of slamming the door. (Can you find where it came from? -- Airstream is great about leaving all sorts of ass't debris inside the completed trailers and it's possible this was just something left during the assembly process.)

I have used some silicone on the latch in my trailer and that seems to help for about a day or so. If it were me (I'm not overly mechanically inclined) I'd take it back to the dealer -- assuming the dealer is capable of making repairs(not all of them are, in my ltd. experience).

As far as the water under the rear with wet insulation, I would be quite concerned about finding the source and getting it fixed ASAP. It could be coming from a loose plumbing fixture -- I'd check every connection that I could find and make sure they are tight. A couple of mine were loose shortly after I bought mine earlier this year, and I know other's have posters here during the past year also had loose and leaking connections on their new Airstreams. My shower also leaked like a seive due to assorted manufacturing screw-ups.

The other thing to look for is inadequate or missing caulking, which could be just about anywhere - water can travel a long way from its source. I have a 2004 Classic, which has a lower rub rail that was improperly caulked all aroung my trailer, and I had some water infiltration at the back of my trailer. You shouldn't have any water in your insulation.

Sorry to sound negative, but Airstreams are NOT Mercedes as far as quality. The only way they resemble Mercedes is in their cost.

John

[Janet H]

Seems to me that if you spend sacks of money on a NEW trailer that these things should be fixed by the dealer.


Make a list, take it in, insist that they fix, replace or refund. Leaking water from a new (or used) trailer is NOT normal. Something is wrong. If water has leaked inside the trailer, unseen, you may have damage to the floor. Be persistant.

Good luck,

[halobender]

Originally Posted by Hit'the'road

Hi all!

Ok, I've had my new, 2005 CCD for about a month and a half. There are a couple of things that I've noticed that don't seem quite right. I need some advice from all the wise ones out there.

2) Hard closing door. I have to really slam the door hard to get it to close tightly.

Though I would not classify myself as wise, I do have the same trailer and the same issue with the door. I didn't notice it the first time I had it out - and then back into the dealer for other issues. Now I am 2000 miles away from my dealer and over 2-1/2 hours away from the nearest dealer, with no tow vehicle. My screen door seems to be snug up against the hinge side - to the point that it cuts in a bit to the white cushion around the top of the door frame, with a gap along the other side. If I don't give it a good hard (noisy) slam, I am unable to deadbolt the door. Other times I found myself trapped inside because the door latch would not release. After the panic subsided, I found that if I pushed out a bit I could then work the handle.

So, no advice here, only empathy. Please keep the thread updated if you end up with a resolution to the door fit.


- Jill

[Janet H]

Jill - Sutton RV in Eugene is about 100 miles away - still not close, I know, but they are an Airstream Dealer and may be able to help. Do a search and you'll find their website.

[jordandvm]

Originally Posted by Hit'the'road

Hi all!
2) Hard closing door. I have to really slam the door hard to get it to close tightly. I keep expecting a Mercedes Benz type of "swoosh... click" sound, instead I have a deafening bang. There's no sneaking in and quietly closing the door here. I even found a popped rivet on the floor the other day. It was one of the rivets next to the door. When I look closely at the door, it seems that the screen door isn't really closing tightly. It seems like bending the screen door hinge somewhat would help it to close more tightly. I'm reluctant to start bending things yet. Are Airstream doors hard closing? Is my Mercedes expectation unrealistic? Any quick fix ideas? And what do I do about that popped rivet?

My door was a little hard closing also. Took it to the dealer as part of my punch list and was fixed (don't know how)!

Originally Posted by Hit'the'road

3) Water dripping from under rear. I noticed a small drip of water from the sheet metal that covers the underbelly near the bumper. When I flipped the metal down and looked under it, there was even more water and the insulation was all wet. I immediately thought there was a leak in the shower or something like that, but I'm not sure. Is it possible for there to be condensation between the inner and outer skins and that is what might be dripping out? Does that mean the insulation is always going to be wet as long as there is condensation?

I also saw water dripping from the belly pan area on our 22' CCD......found out it was condensation running down the side of the trailer and congregating at the belly pan before dripping off the bottom. Just a thought on what this could be. Not sure why your insulation is wet??

Originally Posted by Hit'the'road

I know some of these things must seem so minor, expecially to those of you who are completely redoing a vintage model, but one of the reasons I went with a brand new model was so everything would be perfect and I wouldn't have to spend anytime fixing stuff, at least for awhile. It seems like for $50K everything should be pretty near perfect. Don't even get me started on tool marks, odd linoleum cuts etc.

Thanks in advance for your help!

I went to the dealer with about a 10 item "punch list".....all were addressed satisfactorily and I'm now a "Happy Camper"! They even took out a small dent in the curbside rear(with a toilet plunger)

Jim

[AgZep]

Our 2005 CCD had an ill-fitting door when we first looked at it. We put that on the list during our pre-purchase inspection, and the dealer fixed it for us before we took delivery. Works much better now. In fact, they took care of everything we found, except the ubiquitous 2005 floor squeak of course.

And no, Thor and Benz are somewhat different corporations. At the Mercedes plant, they wear lab coats. At Jackson Center, they wear cutoffs and tank tops. Well, maybe that's a bit of an exaggeration, but I honestly think every Airstream owner would benefit from a factory tour. They don't exactly have much in the way of state-of-the-art robotics, or finite element analysis chassis engineering at the 'ol Airstream plant.

Once you understand how they go together, and how few are actually made, you get a different perspective on these quality issues. I'm not saying we shouldn't expect a quality product, or poor dealer service. But the construction of an Airstream trailer ain't exactly rocket science. There's a lot of hand fitting, with plenty of room for human error. There are constant design and production changes being made to the line, making every unit truly unique. And then they have to endure a trip down the rust belt's questionable interstate road network before they even reach the dealer. Anyone who does woodworking or construction can tell you about the sorry availability of quality raw materials today. In fact, I wish they'd use more aluminum and composites, and less wood, just because I don't trust the long-term stability of the awful wood products I'm seen lately. The trailer line supervisor told me that was his single biggest problem.

So definitely get your dealer involved if you're at all uncertain about these things. A water leak could do serious harm to the floor and the other systems. But I'm sure between the dealer and the factory, you can get these things taken care of.

[bake315]

Often times a coach not properly leveled will prevent the door from closing properly, and in some cases from closing at all. Get it as level as possible with leveling blocks, boards, and use the stabilizing jacks only enough to take the wiggle and bounce out while inside. Cranking up too much on one or more will cause the trailer to flex enough to create this problem.

[Tin Hut]

Our door is hard to shut and open as well. Just noticed a small drip that releases from the freshwater tank area. It may be from the water inlet. Our floor squeeks real bad. I'm going to insist on having the belly pans dropped and the floor reinforced.

[Hit'the'road]

Originally Posted by coriolis1

Often times a coach not properly leveled will prevent the door from closing properly, and in some cases from closing at all. Get it as level as possible with leveling blocks, boards, and use the stabilizing jacks only enough to take the wiggle and bounce out while inside. Cranking up too much on one or more will cause the trailer to flex enough to create this problem.

I am parked on a slope and leveling is a bit of a challenge. As soon as the rains subside I'll relevel and see if that helps. Never even thought that not being level would cause the problem.

Thanks

[Hit'the'road]

Originally Posted by Tin Hut

Our door is hard to shut and open as well. Just noticed a small drip that releases from the freshwater tank area. It may be from the water inlet. Our floor squeeks real bad. I'm going to insist on having the belly pans dropped and the floor reinforced.

It's hard to tell what is going on right now with so much rain. Everything is dripping. I'm thinking it might be condensation collecting, but I'll check all the plumbing the best I can.

Thank you everybody for your advice and support. I'll let you know as I get things resolved.

Can I replace the rivet that popped out? I know where it came from. All I found on the floor was the little round part. I don't even really understand how a rivet works or how they are attached in the first place. Guess I'll be learning.