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Old 02-29-2012, 04:04 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Rich of SCal View Post
I don't understand why the same thing doesn't happen when backing up and turning using a tow vehicle??
Easy answer.

Because the tow vehicle weighs a lot more than you do.

Make a tight turn with the trailer, and stop. Then look at the twist in the trailers tires.

Andy
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Old 02-29-2012, 05:13 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Inland RV Center, In View Post
Easy answer.

Because the tow vehicle weighs a lot more than you do.

Make a tight turn with the trailer, and stop. Then look at the twist in the trailers tires.

Andy
Aha! That makes sense. Fortunately, I have a small single axle and I saw that you thought using a dolly on those was ok. Also I will be moving it around on dirt/grass, which I would think would allow any needed slide slippage. But I was curious. Thanks.
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:19 PM   #23
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Powermover AC7 dolly a winner for grass/dirt moving

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Originally Posted by Rich of SCal View Post
Based on this recommendation (and the one on the AC-8) I have ordered an AC-7. Should be ready for pickup this Saturday.
I have a light trailer, Sport 16, but have to move it around my backyard on grass and dirt. Fortunately not far. Maybe 20 feet or so, at a time. I know this is an old thread, but Brady is alive and well and still making these things at his San Clemente location, only. Apparently he closed down the one at Stanton, Calif.

I will come back and give a report after I get it and use it. Maybe even with pics.
OK, as promised (pics later): I picked my AC7 Powermover electric corded trailer dolly from Brady in San Clemente. I had ordered it by phone just a couple days ago. After looking at his website I asked about this model. Gave him my trailer description, a few measurements while he waited on the phone and put in my order for Saturday. I later sent him a couple pics of the A-frame/tongue section.

It was a beautiful day to make the 70+ mile drive to the beach. Brady gave me thorough briefing on how to hook up and use the dolly. When I got home I immediately got to work (before I forgot anything he had told me). His instructions made perfect sense as I hooked everything up. The only glitch was when I tried to move the trailer without removing my heavy duty rubber chocks (although the dolly was making a mighty effort to drive over them anyway). But after correcting my mistake it was smooth sailing.

My backyard is all dirt and grass, and fairly soft and lumpy in several places. Kinda level overall, but far from smooth. Those 4 wheels never spun once (except for the chocks mistake I made). And turning is very easy on grass/dirt. I just pivoted and slide the wheels while stopped, then restarted in the new position. The hardest part in the whole operation is just the time it takes to crank up the stabilizers, remove chocks, etc. The same as anytime you hitch up to go somewhere. Cranking up the tongue jack to attach the dolly is easier than hitching up to a TV.

This is a very solid unit, using lots of plate steel in the construction. Should last me until I can't Stream anymore, and then some. Maintenance amounts to slapping on some grease and oiling the chain once a year.

Oh yes, attaching the coupler adapter was easy also. It bolts to the A-frame, close to the trailer. And it is a permanent mount, well out the way of the hitching gear. The coupler seems very secure once it is slide over the dolly. I can see why he uses this method and not trailer ball method. The wheels are prevented from coming out from under the trailer by the coupler steel column that is a few inches deep. A lot more stable than that flimsy tongue jack wheel that came with the trailer and holds up the front end most of the time.

I highly recommend this dolly.
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Old 10-13-2014, 07:52 PM   #24
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Dolly or front tow?

I know this is an old thread, but the topic is new for us.

We just put in a new parking place (level, asphalt) for our single axle 20' AS. The problem is that, because of town regulations, it had to be at a diagonal from our regular driveway. We thought that would be easier to get into, but because of the sidewalk on one side, the fence in the back, and the garage on the other side, it's actually more difficult because there are things to watch out for on all sides and in the back.

Anyway, we are considered getting either a trailer dolly (probably a Powermover) or a front hitch. The front hitch, if we can find one for our model SUV, would be a lot less expensive and wouldn't need to be stored.

Does anyone have experience with both options? Pros and cons?

Thanks in advance,
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:18 PM   #25
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I had a front hitch on my F150. It made angleing (sp) my little Bambe II into my backyard.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:25 PM   #26
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I have used both on airplanes and boats. The "dolly" as we called them has tremendous maneuverability, but not a lot of power, or traction. The front hitch on the TV has all the traction you could want, but won't turn as well as the dolly.

When I park my AS in my shed for the winter, I will use a skid loader, with a ball mounted on a short fork. I don't own a skid loader, but I have friends that do.
However, you can rent one for a day for a few dollars from rental places all over out here.
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Old 10-13-2014, 08:35 PM   #27
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front hitch not available

Well, it might be a mot point for me. From a preliminary search, they don't make a front hitch for my make / model TV.
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:36 AM   #28
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I have had front hitches on my last 3 trucks. The first, a toyota t-100 was a custom built hitch built by a local trailer shop. Unless you have some sort of unibody vehicle that is impossible to attach to, it may be feasible to have one made for a reasonable cost. I've never had the power caster so I can't comment on that. I will say that backing a trailer in staring at it from the front is about as easy as it gets.

One other thing to keep in mind is that front hitches typically have a tongue weight limit of 600 lbs and some larger trailers may exceed that.
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:50 AM   #29
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Well, it might be a mot point for me. From a preliminary search, they don't make a front hitch for my make / model TV.
What is your TV?
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Old 10-14-2014, 06:58 AM   #30
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Does anyone have experience with both options? Pros and cons?
I worked in a marina for a while that had a very small sand lot and a paved lot. We moved some big heavy boats on tandem axle trailers - alot, and into very tight spaces.

First choice was always the front hitch on the pickup truck - so long as we had room. No worries about dead batteries.

Second choice when in a tighter spot was the electric golf cart which had a trailer ball welded directly over the drive axle. It could move anything but sometimes got stuck in the sand. Had to remember to charge it.

Third choice was the dolly. Mostly only good on pavement and concrete. Had to remember to charge it.
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Old 10-14-2014, 07:18 AM   #31
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My TV is a 2014 Dodge Durango SUV. They have a decorative (?) piece in the front that would probably get in the way. I guess I'll call the dealer today and see what they say about the possibility of a front tow bar.
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Old 10-14-2014, 12:21 PM   #32
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My TV is a 2014 Dodge Durango SUV. They have a decorative (?) piece in the front that would probably get in the way. I guess I'll call the dealer today and see what they say about the possibility of a front tow bar.
That is a unibody vehicle. There is a hitch available for 2010-2013 and those are also unibody but the front end is a bit different with a lower fascia. One thing I did see with the Curt hitch (the only one I could find) is that it is only rated for 300 lbs tongue weight. My guess is that it would have more to do with the front end construction of the vehicle than the construction of the hitch receiver itself. On my Tundra, a full frame vehicle, the hitch mounts off the frame which is probably a much heavier gauge of metal. Unibody may make for a stiffer vehicle, but it does it with thinner sheet steel.
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Old 10-14-2014, 05:14 PM   #33
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Thanks for the info. I've talked to the Curt people, and I might be able to get it installed if I'm willing to "trim" the facia, talk someone into doing it, etc., on my NEW car. But the max tongue weight is the show stopper. Our tongue weight is 500 I think.

I need to find a way to store a trailer dolly like I need another hole in my head. And to top it off, my driveway snowplow guy might just take one look at the AS sitting there and decide he doesn't want to plow us any more. And then I'd need to get a snow blower to boot.

Is there any way to modify a snow blower to also be a trailer dolly?!?!
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Old 04-08-2015, 11:29 AM   #34
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ONE method to reduce the tendency of a DUAL AXLE trailer to side-slide/twist the tires is to lay a couple of PLASTIC HEAVY DUTY GARBAGE bags on the ground behind the axles. They are so slippery that they allow the axles to twist and slide with ease. (They also keep your tires from sitting on concrete for the long term, which is not good for them...otherwise, park your tires on carpet squares, cardboard, wood, etc.)

I use a hand trailer dolly to move my Bambi, .... but if you do that, keep your electric trailer brake disconnect cable attached to your dolly or IN YOUR HAND so you can stop the trailer if it gets away from you. (This only works if you have a charged ship's battery, of course.) Same holds for those who move it with lawn tractors, skid steers, etc.
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Old 04-08-2015, 01:19 PM   #35
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ONE method to reduce the tendency of a DUAL AXLE trailer to side-slide/twist the tires is to lay a couple of PLASTIC HEAVY DUTY GARBAGE bags on the ground behind the axles. They are so slippery that they allow the axles to twist and slide with ease. (They also keep your tires from sitting on concrete for the long term, which is not good for them...otherwise, park your tires on carpet squares, cardboard, wood, etc.)

I use a hand trailer dolly to move my Bambi, .... but if you do that, keep your electric trailer brake disconnect cable attached to your dolly or IN YOUR HAND so you can stop the trailer if it gets away from you. (This only works if you have a charged ship's battery, of course.) Same holds for those who move it with lawn tractors, skid steers, etc.
Yup, I moved safes like that before!!!! Also my front load washer dryer or anything heavy to move.
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Old 06-28-2016, 01:38 AM   #36
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Often use and love the 4tire Power Mover brand with our dual axle 2005 International 25ft CCD with 750lb tongue weight. Allows a 180 two point turn with ease on flat concrete. No dual axle binding or snapback but do relieve any binding by short forward and back once parked.

Had hitch shop make up a down tube and secure u-bracket without drilling into frame.

Did try the single tire Powercaster and that was way too unstable due to only single wheel and improper weight rating. Like a unicycle and just as squirrelly).
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Old 06-28-2016, 11:44 AM   #37
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Google Parkit360 and watch the videos on their site. I bought the 10K model with plug in for the trailer brakes. I bent my 25FB around a corner at my house and slid it into place in just a few minutes. It has a slight uphill grade and was a piece of cake to operate. I noticed no issues with the dual axles or being unstable in any way. When you let off the forward or reverse buttons it automatically engages the trailer brakes. They even make a remote controlled version!
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Old 06-28-2016, 12:23 PM   #38
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Often use and love the 4tire Power Mover brand with our dual axle 2005 International 25ft CCD with 750lb tongue weight.
Hmm...the only website I can find for Power Mover (http://www.powerdolly.co/) says, "This is a demo store for testing purposes — no orders shall be fulfilled." Is there a better source for info for this particular dolly?
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Old 06-29-2016, 08:33 AM   #39
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Suspect web site is informational and you would have to call or email Brady for your specific type trailer. He has been very knoledgeble Click image for larger version

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We luckily chance found our 4 tire AC unit used and local on Craigslist. Polished painted it up to snuff.
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