BEST TOW VEHICLE FOR 22' ccd ?

[KIMILI]

Help: our CCD is sitting at the dealer!

we're brand new owners in need of a good tow vehicle for our 22'CCD.
We're planning to move to SF (2 adults, a dog & a puppy) and have some concerns.
We've been shopping for over a month now and the more we see the more confused we get, (every dealer has his advice...but no experience).

In need of real life experience. Any advice really apreciated. Thanks.

We need something:
- not too pricy (25K tops)
- OK with California emission laws
- great gas/mileage (planning a lot of towing)



thank you
Kimili

[Richard Vroom]

We are considering the new Toyota Four Runner for our Sovereign 25. It tows 7200 lbs and has air rear suspension to adjust for the weight of the load. It gets better than average fuel consumption and rides like a lexus. Torque is 320. Try driving one and you wil lsee what I mean.
Richard

[Pick]

If it were me, I'd look for a used 2500 GM Suburban, or 2500 extended cab pickup. But, that's me.

[RoadKingMoe]

Although the advantage of a trailer is that it can be towed with other than a pickup truck, I wouldn't do it. There are things I don't want in the passenger compartment, especially in an accident. Heavy things like generators or 5 gallon cans of extra fresh water. Flammable things like a 5 gallon can of gas for the generators or an extra propane bottle, Nasty things, like a tote tank. Greasy things, like a gas grill. Muddy things, like a patio rug, lawn furniture, blocks and chocks, and sometimes hoses and extension cords. So I'd opt for at least an Extended Cab pickup, and maybe a Crew Cab if the dogs are large breed.

I do like 4WD, especially one with Low Range, if you're gonna go to rallies or other events where you may find yourself out in a field.

Congratulations, and best wishes.

[Chas]

Another vote for either an extended or crew cab pickup, 3/4 ton with a topper and a long bed. Largest gas engine or diesel (my preference). Just don't plan on parking it in S.F. too much and you'll be allright. Take BART!!

Chas

[Pahaska]

I tow my AS with an extended cab Silverado with 5.3L engine. With 3.73 gearing, this is more than enough power for the CCD. I have the 4WD (Z71) package and it is nice to have for wet conditions or for starting up on bad surfaces such as loose gravel.

Unfortunately, my Silverado has 3.55 gearing and I had to put on the Banks system to compensate. This would not be needed with a better rear end ratilo.

[Silvertwinkie]

Although it is within the cars towing ability, I went with the Bambi instead of the CCD. Based on the GVRW of the CCD, it fits within the realm of acceptable if you get a good hitch, weight and sway bars. The Caprice or Impala SS from years 1994 through 1996 with an LT1 engine would be able to tow the 22' CCD without any problems. Next in line would be a truck of some sort be it 1/4 ton or higher with tow packages. You need to know that the engine outlined above in the Caprice/Impala is the very similar, if not the same engine/transmission found in the Chevy trucks of similar years. The reason the Caprice/Impala should not pull the 25-34' units is due to the frame not meeting the 1/4 ton capability and that is where the truck win with the larger units with the ability to handle larger tongue weights. Anything in the 5000-5600 range the Caprice/Impala can do and the cars can be bought new for between $8-$15k depending on mileage and condition.

As for gas mileage when towing, expect about 10mpg on average. I got lucky on the trip home from the midwest rally and got about 15mpg due to the wind pushing us along. That is truely rare. The nice thing about the Caprice/Impala is that when not towing gas mileage city is about 14 and hwy about 23 (assuming a somewhat liberal foot..non liberal feet get better gas mileage across the board).

Eric

[Raptorrider2001]

I bought my Duramax Chevy diesel thinking we would buy a larger trailer. When we bought the 25' Safari, I figured the Duramax was overkill for the A/S. Turns out to be a perfect match up. Would do it again in a "Heart Beat". And, the Allison transmission is teriffic for gearing down on steep grades. Best mileage so far pulling the Safari has been 15 1/2 mpg. Usually average around 13 1/2-14. About 15 solo around town and 18-20 solo on the highway. Best has been 21 1/2.

[KIMILI]

Thank you all for the great advice!

We have been to most dealers and test driven just about anything.

The 4runner is hot but pricy compared to others, here it runs (fully equipped) around $41!

After reading all related forums on towing we were definetly pushing for a 4X4 extended cab pick up. Our dogs are a Husky and a Shepard mix, they would welcome the extra room and so would all that extra stuff you have to take along.

Our worries are in purchasing a Diesel here, moving to California (beg. 2004) and not passing their emission test, having to sell the truck there and be stuck!. Also since we do drive an average of 22'000 a year the gas mileage was a concern. We plan a lot of towing.

If anyone has recent reliable info on which diesels are allowed in Cali it would be great!

We're considering the use market and would apreciate any specific model suggestions.

The sooner we solve this the sooner we can go and retrieve our CCD and hit the road.

Thanks again everyone.

[RoadKingMoe]

If you don't buy at dealer invoice, the diesel option can run $5000 or much more. As much as I like it, 4WD can make a $4000 price difference.

You don't need to spend the extra for a 3/4-1 ton truck with a 22' CCD, a 1/2-ton will do, as will a small-block gas V8. As John mentioned, a 3.73:1 axle ratio, definitely with limited slip whether you get 2WD OR 4WD, is a must, and will get you through most hills. A 4.10:1 is better if you're going to spend a lot of time in the mountains with a small-block, but you'll pay for it in highway fuel mileage when not towing. Doesn't make a lot of difference around town.

An auto is a little easier when parking, and will give better resale value, but if you go that route, make sure the truck has the factory towing package, which besides the hitch and wiring, often has a larger or auxiliary transmission fluid cooler.

And as much as I like a long bed, if you're going extended cab, a short bed makes it much easier to manuver and park. It's plenty long enough for a 22'.

The mid-line trim package is usually the way to go. It often has the essentials, such as air-conditioning, etc and often doesn't cost much more than a stripper with essential options. And it is MUCH less expensive than the top of the line trim with leather, etc.

Try to find a dealer that will sell at $300 (not just 3%) over invoice. They're out there.

You'll usually get a better deal buying off the lot rather than ordering. Don't know about the others, but if you can search dealer inventories on Ford's website.

Hope this helps.

[Steve Heywood]

Originally posted by KIMILI
Our worries are in purchasing a Diesel here, moving to California (beg. 2004) and not passing their emission test, having to sell the truck there and be stuck!. Also since we do drive an average of 22'000 a year the gas mileage was a concern. We plan a lot of towing.

You're worried about something that is not a problem. As long as your vehicle has over 7500 miles on it CA can't make you do a thing. CA emissions only concern new vehicles. The 7500 miles sticker is to keep CA residents from driving across the border to buy a non-CA emissions vehicle.

[KIMILI]

Great!

thanks for the tip on CA emissions it really helped.

We're now concentrating our search between these 2 models:

Ford F250 Diesel V8 7.3lt

Chevrolet Suburban V8

Diesesl here are so hard to find that dealers don't even want to consider price talks...

[skipj]

A few comments from a duramax owner, my mileage agrees with those mentioned above. About 16 on the highway at 60 to 65 towing a 25’ classic, and 20 on the highway solo. City sounds about right. I have a GMC 250HD crew cab with the short-bed and 4wd. My dislikes are the hard ride especially without a load, and the turning radius. I traded an extended cab diesel with full size bed for it. The new vehicle seems to turn tighter but still not like a 2wd. I camp in fields and other non-campground environments so the 4wd is important to me. I read that Jeep was coming out with a small diesel in their Grand Cherokee in 2004, but it sounds like you aren’t able to wait.
Skip J

[silverback]

We will be using a an 03 Toyota Tundra w/towing package for an 03 CCD.
KL

[KIMILI]

After a very long search we finally found a Diesel and bought it!

It's a 2000 Ford - Excursion XLT, 7.3lt Powerstroke V8 with a class IV hitch and factory tow package (brake controller).
Only downside is it's a 2WD.

We're picking it up at the end of next week.

We contacted the AS dealer to schedule our AS pick up and he is asking us approx. $925.00 for "Hitchwork"!

What is this expensive hitchwork that is a must and only he can do??!!

The truck is already equipped to tow and the previous owner towed his boat (which was heavier than our CCD) with it!

What additional hitchwork could our truck possibly need to justify this extra expense?

Please help - any advice is welcome.

Thanks again for you help and support.
Kimili

[j54mark]

First, your Excursion should tow about anything with a tongue attached to it, so you have plenty of tow vehicle for a 22' CCD.

"What additional hitchwork could our truck possibly need to justify this extra expense?"

Although you have a receiver and controller, you still need a hitch. These range between expensive and very expensive. Some people swear by Pullrite or Hensley hitches, for example. Other people swear at those people.

There is quite a few threads on different hitch systems on these forums, and I would encourage you to look through them. Even with your Excursion, the 22' CCD is large and heavy enough to warrent a load leveling system. Bottom dollar on these, parts alone, is about $300. For another $100 or so you can add a simple friction anti-sway device. Adding another $100 lets you go for an Equalizer or Reese Dual Cam - both seem to be highly regarded. From there you go into the rather more expensive Blue Ox, Pullrite, Hensley realms.

My guess is that your dealer is thinking of a Reese or Reese dual cam, or something similar. Unless they have gotten a lot more expensive than I think they have, $925 for parts and installation sounds a bit high. But maybe not; perhaps someone who has shopped recently can shed more light.

But lets go back to the controller that came with your Ford. This is no place to scrimp, especially when $150 or less will buy you a top of the line Jordon or Prodigy.

Mark

[59toaster]

Originally posted by KIMILI
After a very long search we finally found a Diesel and bought it!

It's a 2000 Ford - Excursion XLT, 7.3lt Powerstroke V8 with a class IV hitch and factory tow package (brake controller).
Only downside is it's a 2WD.

We're picking it up at the end of next week.

We contacted the AS dealer to schedule our AS pick up and he is asking us approx. $925.00 for "Hitchwork"!

What is this expensive hitchwork that is a must and only he can do??!!

The truck is already equipped to tow and the previous owner towed his boat (which was heavier than our CCD) with it!

What additional hitchwork could our truck possibly need to justify this extra expense?

We feel they scammed us once already, and are shamelessly trying it again, since they know we're new to the towing game.

Please help - any advice is welcome.

Thanks again for you help and support.
Kimili

That's rediculous unless it includes draw bar and something like a reese dual cam. Even then it sounds high. They may also be including the brake controller. Then that's within reason with installation. Settle for nothing less the a Prodigy controller or better yet a Jordan.

I bought my main parts I needed off a friend that bought it off Ebay. He decided he wanted to go with a different setup (air bags to level.....yeah I tried to talk him out of it). I ended up getting a Reese Dual cam with draw bar for $225. From there it was just a hour or so of set up. I did end up buying a different draw bar as my truck sat lower then expected. That added a little more but again I bought it used. If your not in a hurry then you might want to start looking around. www.airstream.org would be a good place to look in their for sale section.

I lucked up on my tow vehicle and bought it from another Streamer. It already had a good brake controler and was wired. Only thing I had to do was change the plug to match the trailer and adjust the brake settings.

[overlander64]

Greetings Kimili!

RE: Hitchwork

When I had the receiver hitch setup on my '75 Cadillac Eldorado to tow my '78 Minuet, the cost was just a bit over $880.00. This was about 60 days ago, and the car already had its receiver hitch installed and the brake control was purchased and just needed to be installed. The following was included in the hitch setup on my tow vehicle:

1.) Install towing wiring harness and connector plug on tow vehicle.

2.) Draw bar of proper drop to match to vehicle.

3.) Adjustable hitch head

4.) Weight Distribution Bars (Spring Bars) one pair (approximately $330.00 of the cost).

5.) Friction Sway Control Device (this was later "traded" on a Reese Dual Cam setup).

6.) Coupler Ball of correct size and weight rating for trailer.

7.) Setup hitch on tow vehcile/trailer to properly mate and adjust the weight distribution setup.

The entire setup took about 3.5 hours from the time the car rolled into the bay and when the trailer and car were presented to me ready to roll. It was well worth the expense as the last time that I setup my own Reese Dual Cam Hitch it took in excess of 9 hours of tedious work that I never wish to repeat (including installation of the dual cam brackets on trailer and all of the finite adjustments to the height and angle of the hitch head).

The hitch on my tow vehicle is a class III so the components would not be quite as heavily built as those for your class IV system so that would account for some difference in price. Even though your tow vehicle has already been unsed for towing, it has been my experience that if it wasn't setup by the selling dealer he/she likes to have one their technicians examine the system to be sure that everything is to specification. It is quite possible, for instance, that the wiring might have to be adjusted on the tow vehicle connector if the previous owner did any modifying as has been known to happen. I can't speak for the shop that is doing your work, but where I had my work done, the price is adjusted if less than the amount of work anticipated is required.

Good luck with your hitch setup - - it is a critical step in a truly satisfactory towing experience.

Kevin

[Sav'h Steve]

I guess a phone call to the dealer is in order here. Is he setting you up with a Reese hitch?

Mark has some good advice in the last post. The Excursion with trailor package only needs to have the Reese dual cam setup to be perfectly acceptable for your needs.

Your truck Will be in control with these options. You can order the Reese online for much less. Do get the adjustable drop bar as you can move the hitch higher or lower according to your bumper height.

Give him a call!

Steve

[thenewkid64]

Here is a place that you may be able to find a setup used for half price or better. If the seller is in your region all the better.

http://www.hitchtrader.com/consumer/index.html

FYI guys, there are THREE Hensley Arrows for sale out here used!