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Old 04-02-2019, 09:24 AM   #21
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1993 34' Limited
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Anyone know much about the thermal breakers they used in these units? I had one click off, and it has never come back on. It says they are automatic but nothing. I looked in the box and have no idea what to do with these.
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Old 04-02-2019, 07:48 PM   #22
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1986 34' Limited
1975 27' Overlander
1969 21' Globetrotter
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I wonder if you are referring to the circuit breakers involved in the trailer's external lighting and the like. That may be the only place they are used anymore. If one went open, and if now your tail lights don't light, there's gotta be a reason the breaker got hot and went open, like a short in the wire.

Some of these breakers do have a manual reset, but most use a bimetal strip that moves one way (to open the circuit) when hot, and moves the other way when it cools. If the breaker is defective for some reason, you can try to replace it. Your local car parts store may have one available. Or they are readily available on the internet.

https://www.delcity.net/store/12V-Au...98669.h_198846

Diagnosing electrical problems can be a challenge, especially for me. But I'm getting better at it the more I do. You will too.

David
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Old 04-07-2019, 11:20 AM   #23
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Thanks for everyone's help. Another question I have is, i bought a sewer hose but the end is not big enough to go onto airstream. Is there an adapter I need? What size?
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Old 04-07-2019, 12:26 PM   #24
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Welcome!

Airstream trailers have a unique sized sewer coupling for reasons no one ever explained to me. Most RV supply stores have an adapter, just tell them you need a sewer hose adapter for an Airstream.

Also, here is a handy link to a resource you'll find very helpful:

http://vintageairstream.com/restorat...ers-resources/
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Old 04-07-2019, 12:40 PM   #25
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So you got the big puppy, congrats.

The circuit breakers are a bit of a puzzle. Mine are not "automatic". There is a very small reset button on the already small breaker.

Your sewer connection is likely Thetford. An adapter to go from the Thetford fitting to Valterra is out there at most RV stores.
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Old 04-10-2019, 03:28 PM   #26
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Ok, I've got more questions. The bumper got bent when it was pulled out of garage when I picked it up. What is best option on this. Is it a problem the way it is? It doesn't seem like based on the other side that water getting in is a problem, but I wondered about rodents. The storage for the sewage hose gets water in it, there is no drain hole, so does the water just sit in there. And the side storage compartments at the bottom seem like water will get in. Is that an issue?Click image for larger version

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Old 04-10-2019, 03:34 PM   #27
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My bumper storage area has drain holes. I don't think Mickey will be a problem.
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Old 04-11-2019, 06:11 PM   #28
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Hi Saggy: I suggest you get the rear bumper area repaired. I see a gap between the molding and the flange. This could be a excellent rainwater ingress right at the OSB subfloor. This area needs well sealed against rainwater.

The bumper storage area is "external" so to speak and water getting in their is no biggie. I too have drilled drain holes in the aluminum sheeting below this area just to let rainwater drain out. Airstream "basements", or the area below the subfloor and above the belly pan are infamous for water retention. Some folks work hard to seal it all up, and others like me drill holes and let the water drain out and the area dry up with better ventilation. I drill 1/4" drain holes so water drips out and mice don't get in.

David
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Old 04-16-2019, 07:57 PM   #29
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I'm looking for stuff we need for first trip, something that came to mind was a jack. Scissor or bottle best? The trailer has a spare, but I don't see a jack anywhere.
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Old 04-17-2019, 09:09 AM   #30
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I use a bottle jack.

The easiest way to change a tire is to get a plastic lifter. You drive up on it with one wheel and the flat will be suspended above the surface so you can change it.
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Old 04-17-2019, 10:00 AM   #31
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Does that work with triple axel?
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Old 04-17-2019, 11:23 AM   #32
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You might need to lift 2 wheels, but no reason it wouldn't work.
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Old 04-17-2019, 07:48 PM   #33
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I bought 1 of the plastic things for my 2 axle utility trailer, but you are saying I need 2?
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Old 04-18-2019, 09:15 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Saggy1021 View Post
I bought 1 of the plastic things for my 2 axle utility trailer, but you are saying I need 2?
Try one and see if you can lift your other wheel off the ground.
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Old 04-29-2019, 07:18 PM   #35
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Got it into "It's" home today. Another question, the sewer drain is leaking what seems like fluid from the black tank. It's not all of it, because if you pull the lever more comes flowing out. But when you have the sewer cap on, quite a bit backs up in there and flood out when you take the cap off. Is there a seal or something that needs replacing?Click image for larger version

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Old 04-29-2019, 08:30 PM   #36
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Got it home and a nice home it is. Waste water dump valves often leak. Your trailer may still have the original valves and seals.

Hold on to your hat, fixing it is a rather big project. Airstream conveniently installed the valves under the big tank covers, so they have to be removed to access the valves. They should have provided a "maintenance access door" but alas, they did not.

My valves were leaking also and I just replaced them both. I prefer the Valterra blade valves as the sealing design is simpler. The valves are about $20 each. The replacement project took me a week.

Here are some photos of what I did maybe 8 years ago. So far, no leaks.

David
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Old 05-02-2019, 07:08 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Got it home and a nice home it is. Waste water dump valves often leak. Your trailer may still have the original valves and seals.

Hold on to your hat, fixing it is a rather big project. Airstream conveniently installed the valves under the big tank covers, so they have to be removed to access the valves. They should have provided a "maintenance access door" but alas, they did not.

My valves were leaking also and I just replaced them both. I prefer the Valterra blade valves as the sealing design is simpler. The valves are about $20 each. The replacement project took me a week.

Here are some photos of what I did maybe 8 years ago. So far, no leaks.

David
Thanks David, what are the holding tanks made of? Gray,black, and water.
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:13 PM   #38
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Hi again: The tanks are made of polyethylene plastic material. It is a thermoplastic material. They are "rotomolded". Here is a photo of the fresh water tank out of our 86 Limited 34'. I had a plumbing leak below the subfloor and above this tank. So out it came so I could make repairs. The second photo is the molder's insignia. Inca Plastics has been molding water tanks for the RV industry for decades.

David
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Old 05-02-2019, 08:32 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
Hi again: The tanks are made of polyethylene plastic material. It is a thermoplastic material. They are "rotomolded". Here is a photo of the fresh water tank out of our 86 Limited 34'. I had a plumbing leak below the subfloor and above this tank. So out it came so I could make repairs. The second photo is the molder's insignia. Inca Plastics has been molding water tanks for the RV industry for decades.

David
Ok, good. So I shouldn't have to worry about the tanks being messed up. The freshwater tank had water in it for years, I have flushed it several times now, with bleach, and drove it around filled once. Im still worried about using it. It should clean well though if it is plastic, I guess.
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Old 05-03-2019, 07:07 PM   #40
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I bleached my fresh water tank last night and flushed it twice today. We are taking a week long trip to Utah leaving tomorrow. Bleach is a very good disinfectant. I took a glass of water after I filled the tank with fresh water. Tasted good with no odors.

Your plumbing ought to be clean now.

David
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