75 Overlander Improvements Journal

[Jeremy9107]

david. had not thought of GFI breaker. glad i have been following.

[dbj216]

I've been working on re-installing the bathtub (shower pan?). I had to remove all the bathroom fixtures to repair the rear end separation. The bathtub plywood support platform was in bad shape. I also replumbed the drain lines to a new, larger grey water tank.

I consider the bathtub the "foundation" piece in this Overlander's bathroom. Seems like everything is tied to the location of the bathtub; rear bulkhead wall, shower valve plastic side wall, console, and vanity. It is rather critical for height, and X-Y dimensions for the drain location to the trap.

I made the new platform the exact same height as the old one, and the exact same "slope" to the platform so water would run to the drain. Photo 1 shows the plywood supports, photo 2 shows the plywood platform, and photo 3 shows the bathtub installed. Photo 4 shows the drain connection below the platform accessible from the rear exterior door.

We have snow here tomorrow. It's fun for me to be in the shop working on the Overlander while it is snowing outside. Colorado is known for snow. I'll be thinking about some rallies to attend next season with the Overlander.

David

[dbj216]

The old "while you're at it" syndrome. The old shower valve was 43 years old, quite full of calcium deposits and rust, and plumbed in copper pipe. It still kinda worked, but I pitched it.

I purchased a Kohler base model that happened to fit the plastic side wall that locates the shower valve and discharge pipe. The Kohler valve is so much better built than the old one. It has pressure balance between hot and cold, as well as a temperature set stop so you don't scald yourself. RV water heaters don't have a temp setting, they heat to 140F or more. The new valve operates smoothly with its ceramic seals.

The valve is heavy brass, the Airstream plastic is thin. I had to make a backing board to support the weight against the plastic. I also made a support for the discharge pipe. Both valve and pipe are sealed so water doesn't leak behind. I will plumb it to the new PEX lines with flex hoses. And I will also make a floor support for the valve so the plastic doesn't carry any weight of the valve.

This plastic "shower valve mount" gets mounted to the side of the bathtub, and the "console" gets mounted to the top of the shower valve mount. The vanity gets mounted to the console and must align with the bottom of the bath window. I'm using existing rivet holes so hopefully it will all line up.

David

[Joyflea]

Work looks great , keep it up . SNOW ❄️, we need a wall to keep it out of Texas . LOL

[steinVT]

Working in a shop on your Airstream while it's snowing outside, sounds almost perfect. I'm about ready to move mine to a barn for the winter, but I don't think much work will get done.

Nice work on the bathroom. Hope to see it in person at a rally someday.
Mark

[Atomic_13]

Looking great, David. Nice upgrade on the shower valve. Your Overlander’s bathroom is really coming along. No snow here in KS but the temps are finally falling.

[dbj216]

Thanks for the encouragement stienVT, joyflea and Atomic 13: All of you have vintage Airstream projects much bigger than mine. I'm happy you are following along.

The snow came as predicted. Maybe 4" of fluff and a chilly 20F. Early winter event. The winter forecast around here is above average snowfall. I sure hope so as we need the moisture.

I played in the shop with the Overlander while watching it snow. Like it and lucky to have it. Did some tasks not worthy of a photo, like repairing the interior skins below the rear storage door. I had to remove some of the skins to gain access to the "rear body bolts" through the c channel to the frame rails. I've also started "designing" the new exterior storage "box" in the old drop down battery tray. It isn't a big space, but a space none the less. Seventies Overlanders don't have much exterior access storage. I aim to improve it a bit.

David

[rasmuw]

Originally Posted by steinVT

Working in a shop on your Airstream while it's snowing outside, sounds almost perfect. I'm about ready to move mine to a barn for the winter, but I don't think much work will get done.

I got nothing done in an airplane hangar last winter, and I'm south of you in New Jersey. This year, with the shell back on the chassis, I'm back in a heated garage at the school at which I work. If you work on your trailer in a barn in Vermont, you're tougher than I am.

Keep up the good work David!

[Joyflea]

David , I should keep my mouth shut . 88 yesterday 20 now . Oh well maybe I can get caught up on my paperwork
Blue

[dbj216]

Wow, that is a huge change in temp. You might get thermo-shock and develop a crack. We're quite cold here.

Last weekend was a good example of the old saying; it takes 10 times as many hours to put the trailer back together again than it did to tear it down. Sometimes progress is just slow.

David

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by dbj216

Last weekend was a good example of the old saying; it takes 10 times as many hours to put the trailer back together again than it did to tear it down. Sometimes progress is just slow.



David

Nice bathroom work David, but I would add another digit to the factor.[emoji3]

Dan

[dbj216]

I finished up this little external "battery box storage compartment" today. It isn't much, but it is a bit more storage than the Overlander had before. I think it will work well for the power cord and the city water hose.

I removed the plastic "box" where the battery used to reside. I cut some 1/4" laminated "mdf" for the protective side walls. I made it so these walls can be easily lifted out for good access to the back of the fuse panel if ever needed. There is easy access to the 120vAC outlet back there for the converter, although the converter has been moved forward.

Gee, I feel like an Airstream interior designer looking for efficient use of space. The feeling won't last long.

The bathtub is set and the "shower wall" is ready to install. Those are the next projects as I proceed to reassemble the bathroom just like Airstream designed and built it in 75.

David

[Joyflea]

Looks great . Keep up the good work .

[chrisetmike]

It is coming along great. You will catch up to us in no time! I was amazed at how much time will be spent in the tiniest space (the bathroom). It seems like it is the longest room to complete for the least amount of actual space!

[dbj216]

Hi: I saw your post on putting the Overlander in storage, and then a photo of what looked like you practicing your sledding bent at the knees. Cool.

Airstream bathrooms are a time consuming endeavor, just like they are in our homes. But that is the target area when a guy discovers rear end separation and rear subfloor rot. I'm not changing it, just repainting the plastics and replacing the plumbing and faucets.

David

[dbj216]

I thought I had the original and correct location of the bathtub when I pulled it out. I thought wrong!

I started installing the "plastics" around the tub and I find I am almost an inch off location. The bathtub is too far rearward, and too far toward the center of the bathroom. That means my drain pipe needs reworked. Rats!

Today I analyzed what I need to do and started the rework.

I'll get it right... soon enough.

David

[Jeremy9107]

David. Like the repurposed compartment. I was considering the same for storing my hose, but am going to put a 3" pipe withing belly pan for it instead.

Regarding the bathroom being "off", I think I would have been more surprised if it was "on".

[dbj216]

I have one of those under the trailer "tubes" for sewer hose storage and plan on using it on the Overlander. There is no rear bumper storage on the Overlander as it is occupied by the tank dump drain manifold.

Thanks for following along.

David

[dbj216]

I figured out what I might have done wrong. I focused too much on the drain pipe figuring that had to be right for the plastic bathtub to fit, and then everything else would fit up.

Well, the bath drain pipe was too long by about an inch, and too wide by about the same amount. Maybe the key piece in the plastic bath is the "shampoo shelf" that mounts against the side wall and back wall of the bathroom. The "shower valve wall" hangs straight down from there, and the bathtub has to be positioned directly under it.

So I made a new drain pipe that is in a better location and then mounted the "shampoo shelf" to the wall with clecos. I trial fitted the rest of the bath plastics and by golly it all fit much better.

The bath plastics are about 3/16" thick. To join two pieces together is 6/16" total thickness. I need 1/8" rivets with a 1/2" grip range. That's a lot. I'm contemplating gong to 5/16" rivets since the 1/8" holes are worn and drilled oversize some. I also wonder if "Olympic" style trifold rivets would be a good choice for the plastic parts. They would have less chance of crushing the old plastic and would distribute the load better.

One step at a time.

David

[Atomic_13]

Looks really nice. Like new!