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Old 03-09-2018, 08:31 AM   #99
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That is a real nice improvement to your Overlander David. Not only a better location but the patch over the old water heater location will look better than a patch with the new water heater installed in the patch!

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Old 03-09-2018, 05:50 PM   #100
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You are right on that TouringDan. Recently I saw such a patch over a 6 gallon water heater in a 10 gallon space. I think I have enough structure and existing rivet lines to make the Overlander old water heater patch look decent. My old Trade Wind water heater patch turned out reasonable in my view. It is the area where the shore power and city water connections are just behind the water heater. I also had a patch over the old furnace area, and next to the entry door. My old Trade Wind kinda looked like a quilt. The patches looked better once the whole trailer is polished.

But a patch is a patch is a patch. Kinda like the knees on my work pants. Pretty obvious even to a casual observer.

David
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Old 03-11-2018, 06:09 PM   #101
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Subfloor Perimeter Channel

We vintage Airstreamers often talk about the "C channel". It sits on the subfloor, bolted to the subfloor, and then the exterior and interior skins are bucked riveted to it. The distance between the skins is 1 1/2".

My 75 Overlander actually has two types of "floor channels" as Airstream calls them. The front and rear of the trailer have the traditional "C channel" that Airstream forms into a big loop matching the corners of the body. The straight sections of curb and street sides of my trailer have this extruded "C channel with a foot" that fits over the edge of the 3/4" subfloor. It looks pretty robust to me.

Here are photos of the C channel at the rear of the trailer, and the more robust floor channel along the sides of the trailer. (Note: The floor channel has been trimmed flush with the floor, and the interior lip bent over flush with the floor for the old 10 gallon water heater.) Reference also a photo out of the service manual showing there are indeed two part numbers for these two types of floor channels.

I don't know when these two types of floor channels were incorporated into the Airstream body design. Maybe in 1969 with the new body. I found this interesting in a strange vintage Airstream kind of way. Most folks wouldn't give a rip about it.

David
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Old 03-15-2018, 05:27 PM   #102
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Patch With Purpose

I made a patch where the old 10 gallon water was located. This project included "framing" around the patch area with aluminum including a "new" floor channel that is attached to the subfloor. The patch is Alclad.

I also made a patch for the interior wall covering the hole where the water heater was located.

I then drilled and installed new shore power and city water inlet fixtures. It is pretty standard stuff. I find it handier than digging out a shore power cord from the bumper storage and then attaching a water hose to the inlet located low on the frame rail at the very rear of the trailer.

The space where the old water heater was located has become a "utilities" area as that is where the AC power distribution panel is located, as well as a plumbing drain line and a vent line.

Next on the list is a new power panel with new breakers. Then I'll start the fresh water plumbing from the citer water inlet.

The patch will look better when I polish the whole trailer. The new water heater door will also be clad in Alclad.

David
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Old 03-16-2018, 11:05 AM   #103
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I just pulled my oven out as well, on the '72. It looks just like yours and in perfect condition---like it was never used. I don't want to throw it away, so if anyone on this site wants it and wants to pay to have it shipped, I'm happy to let it go. Also, had the idea to put the microwave in that space, but don't want it to protrude into the bedroom, so not sure how to cover that hole--maybe a piece of stained glass, or mirror.?
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Old 03-16-2018, 06:48 PM   #104
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Hi Clarezy: Welcome to the vintage Airstream hobby. That oven located in the wall is a silly idea in my view. I believe Airstream wanted to increase storage space in the galley, and built in ovens were just beginning to become popular in new homes back then.

So I plan on using that space for the microwave. A microwave is a very handy gadget in an Airstream. We don't use an oven much while traveling. Many other folks wouldn't be without one. Anyway, they make "apartment size" microwaves that are not very deep or very heavy. I will pick one up someday, and then build a facia to make it look as nice as I can. I will still have the bump out over the twin bed. I'll get used to it.

There may be room under the cooktop in that extra storage space Airstream provided with the wall mounted oven. But my trailer doesn't have an outlet located there, and I don't like getting on my knees to set the microwave. Otherwise I have not thought of a good place for a microwave in the seventies Overlander.

David
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Old 03-17-2018, 06:31 PM   #105
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New Electrical Distribution Panel 115vAC

I installed the new 115vAC distribution panel. Why? The old box had spaces for 4 beakers and all were used. I may run a dedicated circuit for the microwave. I haven't decided fully on this yet. And the old box was a bit rusty, and the breakers were as old as the trailer. Time for new hardware I figured.

With the new shore power connection outside of the trailer, the installation of the breaker box was straight forward. I did elect to mount the box a bit higher so you don't have to bend clear over to turn off the main breaker. You have to have your head in the game while wiring this up. A guy has to double check everything to insure it is wired correctly.

So I closed my eyes and plugged it in. No flash, no arcs, no buzz, no smoke. A good sign. Then I tested each of the three circuits; AC, back half of the trailer, and front half of the trailer. No problems found.

So I can cross another item in this Overlander renovation.

David
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Old 03-18-2018, 04:28 AM   #106
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David

Nice patch job and utility installation. Moving the water heater is a very nice improvement. Wally would approve!

Dan
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Old 03-18-2018, 06:15 PM   #107
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Thanks Dan: As you know I did the same thing in the Trade Wind. A 6 gallon water heater is close to 50 pounds when filled. The battery was close to 65 pounds. I also moved the gray tank forward one frame bay. I speculate Airstream added weight to the rear to reduce tongue weight so you could pull an Overlander with a Ford Fairlane 6 cyl and still have the front wheels on the ground. Or at least try to pull it.

The patch will look better once I polish the rest of the trailer. Next winter's project.

David
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Old 03-19-2018, 04:52 PM   #108
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Holding Tank Drain Manifold Complete

I made the final pipe attachments to the Valterra valves and then to the 3" sewer pipe out the side of the frame rail. The valves are located in the bumper storage compartment instead of the rear cargo department. I did this as I was reluctant to cut holes in the rear subfloor and I see no advantage in having the valves actuated in the cargo compartment. I am easily able to lift the bumper storage lid and actuate the valves.

The bumper storage compartment is a "basement" area. It will be wet and dirty sure. There will be a barrier wall between the tank compartment and the bumper storage area. The tank compartments will be heated as usual.

I won't insulate the area until I finish fresh water plumbing and fill the tanks with water and then test for leaks.

I also included a photo of the trailer's utilities connected in their new locations. Not fancy, but it should work good.

David
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Old 03-24-2018, 10:22 AM   #109
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Your tank plumbing looks practical and well thought out. Very simple and accessible design.
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Old 03-24-2018, 05:36 PM   #110
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Thanks Atomic 13: It isn't nuclear powered like I would assume someone with a user name of Atomic would consider.

David
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Old 03-24-2018, 05:59 PM   #111
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Fresh Water Plumbing Begins

I laid out my plans and made a list of the materials I need. After the trip to the hardware store ($200) I started in. Brass PEX connections are expensive.

I've completed the fresh water inlet, the hot water heater bypass valves, the toilet connection, and the bath sink shut off valves.

Next is the shower valve connections and then the long run to the galley sink and pump. With a bit of luck, I should be ready to pressurize the system late next week, less faucets. I'll test it with 40 psi air first, then real water.

I want to purchase new faucets for galley, shower and bath sink. The originals are pitted and seem partially blocked inside. I don't need anything fancy. I won't install them until I'm in the final assembly phase.

There is a screw on cap on the Shur Flow water inlet assembly that I screwed to the side of my trailer. There is a pressure regulator (65 psi) built into this plastic assembly. I ASSUME I can screw on the cap instead of installing a check valve. I'm likely to leave the cap on except when we are connected to city water somewhere just to keep the system somewhat clean.

David
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Old 03-27-2018, 08:25 PM   #112
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Fresh Water Plumbing Ends

I now have the fresh water plumbing system completed from city water inlet to fresh water tank. The PEX system is easy to work with and I think has less pressure drop than all the copper I took out of the trailer.

All I have is the main lines completed. I will air leak test tomorrow (fingers crossed). I have to install my new faucets before I try the new pump and put water in the system. I installed a standard shut off valve for each faucet line.
Installing the faucets will be with steel braided flex lines. Installing new faucets means I have to put the bathroom back together. I also have to wire up the new pump. They want an exclusive 15 amp circuit with switch. I'll have to figure all that out too.

A lot done and a lot more to do...

David
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