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Old 01-17-2018, 06:03 PM   #71
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1986 34' Limited
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Conifer , Colorado
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I'm going to move forward and replace the circuit breakers with a fuse panel similar to the wife's 86 Limited. I'll label everything and make it easier to access than behind the gaucho, a plastic cover, on the floor. I will eliminate the second plug into the trailer. The umbilical cord follows the A frame on the other Airstreams I've worked on. This one will too.

I'll book it as an improvement.

David
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Old 01-17-2018, 06:30 PM   #72
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Trial Fitting the Black Tank

I farmed out three black tank supports for the Overlander. The new black tank will sit in the original location. The new tank is 27 gallons, the old one was 20 gallons. The old tank toilet flange spinweld was broken off. The old tank was "U" shaped with the drain port in the middle of the U. I saw no way the tank could drain completely. This may have been done so the dump valve pull rod was in the rear storage compartment through the subfloor. See photo. The old tank needed replaced, big improvement project.

So today I put the tank in position and fitted the new tank supports. They are 'stepped" as I will route the gray tank 1 1/2" drain pipe next to the black tank. The tank supports will be bolted to the lips of the frame rails. Removing the black tank if needed means dropping the rear section of belly pan and unbolting the tank supports. Removing the belly pan was the case with the old waste water tank layout also.

I am considering operating the black and grey tank dump valves horizontally through the bumper storage compartment, and not running them vertically through the subfloor and into the rear storage compartment. The bumper storage compartment in these 70s trailers is mostly full of 3" drain piping. Can't put much back there anyway. The slinky is stored in a tube below the trailer. No decision made on that one yet.

David
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Old 01-21-2018, 05:35 PM   #73
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Drain Plumbing Started

So I have the new black and gray water holding tanks fitted under the trailer. Now I have to plan and install the drain plumbing so I know exactly where the floor penetrations will be over the tanks. Then I can mark the tanks and drill holes in them. I like the rubber grommets for the tank penetration seals. They are press fit into the tank and ABS pipe. They allow some flexibility in planning the drain plumbing. It would be difficult to dimension exactly where I want my spin weld fittings and order the tanks accordingly. And I would likely end up with plastic tapered pipe threads spin welds which aren't my favorite.

This aspect of my project is a good example of how many multiple hours there is in the time for reassembly compared to disassembly. I took the old drain plumbing out with a sawzall and not much time spent. Putting it back is plan, measure, cut, fit, and again, and again for each piece of pipe in the routing. It takes much, much longer to reassemble.

David
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Old 01-26-2018, 08:10 PM   #74
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Drain Plumbing Finished

I've run new drain plumbing from the galley sink, shower tub, bath sink, toilet, and two of the three vent stacks. I have not glued it together yet as I want to finish the fresh water plumbing, and review my proposed penetrations into the new holding tanks.

I am seriously considering locating the dump valves in the bumper storage area. Why? So I don't have to make subfloor penetrations for the valve handles. I want to keep the rear subfloor as strong as possible. I have trial fitted the valves in the rear bumper storage area and I find it acceptable to lift the cover, and actuate the valves that are mounted blade valve actuators going horizontal. The gray dump valve is just a 1 1/2 valve that pulls easy. The black dump valve is a standard 3" Valterra. I can pull them okay in this location. The rear bumper storage area is really the drain pipe chase. There isn't much storage room there. By locating the valves there, I have more room in the rear storage compartment.

David
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Old 01-27-2018, 08:17 AM   #75
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Talking 75 Overlander_renovation for Airee75

Well, 2 days ago (1/25/18) we joined the elite club of renovators for this baby! Bill and I are excited to get her back in shape and sure appreciate learning from all of you that have experienced this project and the possibilities that we have in front of us! Following along with your journey and documenting our own at the same time! /c
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Old 01-27-2018, 07:20 PM   #76
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That's great. I need all the help I can get. David
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Old 01-31-2018, 07:48 PM   #77
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Little Progress

Ever notice how sometimes in a big project the little things slow you down? I've had several days in the shop with little to show for it.

I'm having trouble figuring out my toilet floor flange to black tank scheme. I elected to use a press fit rubber grommet connection in my tank. The top of the grommet hits the floor flange. I may have to make a 3/4" spacer under the toilet to gain enough clearance. I'm okay with that as the old subfloor around the toilet hole isn't the greatest. But I don't like getting the toilet too high. So I've been thinking about that. What would be perfect is a square corner toilet flange, 3" hub, about 2 3/4" long. They don't make them that I can find.

I've been having these "brown outs" in the overhead light fixtures in the trailer every now and then. At first I thought I had a bad 12v ground connection. I cleaned and renewed the ground and things seemed better for a while. But yesterday I had hardly any lights at all. I checked the 115v AC to the converter and I measured 124 volts. Kinda on the highside. I checked the output from the WFCO 9800 converter at 5 volts DC. Why would that be? It ought to generate 13.5 at a minimum. I fear some circuit board in the converter is going bad. I've not smelled any "electrical burning" like the transformer coil melting down. I unplugged it and I'm working in the dark as usual. I'm starting to research new converters that would handle a AGM battery nicely.

David
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Old 02-04-2018, 08:11 PM   #78
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New Converter

I purchased and installed a new Progressive Dynamics converter. I now have lights. I'm a little concerned the converter is sending too much voltage to the battery. I'll have to figure that one out.

I assembled my new drain plumbing. All joints but one are glued. I have made the new subfloor penetrations for the drain pipes. I have marked the tanks and now have to drill the tanks for my sealing grommets. Then I bolt the tanks up to the frame and hope it doesn't leak.

Still having a bit of trouble with the black tank. It is warped on the top surface and messing up the squareness of my toilet seal. I've experimented with adding a center support inside the tank using a piece of 3" ABS pipe. I think I can slip it inside the tank to prop up the center of the tank. I believe once I clamp the tank tight to the subfloor, the center support isn't going anywhere. I'll sleep on it.

David
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Old 02-04-2018, 08:31 PM   #79
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If the tank is also ABS you could puddle a bit of ABS glue on the bottom once the brace is in place.

I would be a little concerned about the ends of the pipe gradually chewing their way through the tank, however. Is there room to add an ABS flange to the assembly and still get it in there?
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Old 02-05-2018, 08:16 AM   #80
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Hello David,

Could you warm the ABS with a heat gun, then push, or glue-tab pull, the the warp out??
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Old 02-05-2018, 06:21 PM   #81
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Thanks for the ideas. Warped surfaces in rotomolded tanks is very common. I did get my dent puller suction cup out and tried to attach it, but the surface of the tank is too rough. A pneumatic suction cup attached to my air compressor would probably clamp down well, but I don't have one of those.

The tank is made of polyethylene, regrind material at that. Polyethylene is quite recyclable. There isn't any adhesive that will stick to it that I know of.

The tank is 6" high in the area of the toilet connection. So I cut a 6" long piece of 3" ABS pipe. I drilled two "puller holes" so I could pull it out of the tank if needed. I also drilled drain holes at the bottom of the pipe. I have drilled the 3.75" grommet hole in the tank, so the 3.5" OD of the pipe slips into the tank.

Then (don't laugh) I got one of my hitch weight distribution bars that looks a bit like a hockey stick. It happened to fit in the tank 3" drain port nicely. So I levered it in there and lifted the warped top up about an inch. Then I slipped my "tank column support" into the tank and positioned it where it will do the most good, close to the center of the tank. Now the top surface of the tank is flat, not sunken in. My toilet connection grommet is square to the floor. Better.

The 3" "tank column support" can't tip on it's side in the tank. I am using three tank supports under this tank which put pressure on the each side of the column support. It is very tight in the tank, clamped between the tank supports on the bottom and the subfloor on top.

If this idea fails for some reason, I can remove my black tank and start over. I'm out a $300 tank and a lot of work.

David
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Old 02-08-2018, 07:37 PM   #82
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Toilet Flange Stack Up

I simple job like attaching a toilet mounting flange to the subfloor can get complicated for me.

My black tank is tight against the subfloor. The subfloor is 3/4" thick. I'm using the rubber grommet tank connections instead of spin welds. The grommet is 1" above the tank, thus it stands proud of the top subfloor surface about 1/4". The grommet is 3 1/2 inch ID. It accepts 3" ABS pipe OD, or 3 1/2" OD. There must be 10 different configurations of toilet mounting flanges. I need a "hub" that fits over the 3" ABS "soil pipe". But it can't hit the rubber grommet.

I had to make a 1/2" spacer under the flange to gain the height I needed. The soil pipe is a slip fit into the mounting flange, and actually a slip fit into the Thetford toilet. Then there is the foam gasket that compresses between the toilet and the flange.

I don't see a way this arrangement can leak, but it probably will anyway just to irritate me.

David
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Old 02-09-2018, 07:00 PM   #83
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Moving Battery to the Front

It may be Airstream installed the battery and the water heater in the rear of the 75 Overlander to reduce tongue weight. Nonetheless, I'm moving the battery to the front of the trailer to reduce weight in the rear. My tow vehicle can handle an extra 70 pounds of tongue weight.

I think around 1977 Airstream started moving the battery(s) to the front of the trailer in those little plastic boxes with aluminum exterior doors. I won't have that arrangement. The battery will be under the couch and accessible by pulling out the gaucho (sleeping position) and lifting the rear cushion.

I will be using an AGM battery that only vents when hot. I have a proper charger for it. I have an AGM battery in the wife's car under the passenger seat. It is the first I've seen that done.

I decided to use a quick battery disconnect instead of a battery "off switch". I find it quite handy. I can disconnect the battery when in storage with no fear of parasitic losses, and I can easily remove the battery without tools. Simple guys like simple things.

David
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Old 02-10-2018, 07:09 PM   #84
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David

The toilet flange design looks good to me and I love the simplicity of your on/off switch.

Dan
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