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Old 05-09-2018, 06:05 PM   #127
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Bathroom Parts now Painted

Today I picked up my bath plastic parts from a small, local body shop. I had them painted with single stage automotive paint designed for plastic bumpers and the like.

The professional prep and spray painting was worth it. The parts look great and ought to last a long time. I opted for "toilet white" as it looks clean and we will have enough accents in the bathroom to draw attention from all the while, such as the shower curtain, the window curtain, towels, toilet lid cover, and the like.

Now I can start working to reassemble the rear bath and do a thorough test of the plumbing and holding tanks.

David
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Old 05-09-2018, 06:38 PM   #128
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Looks great, What a relief to get past the bath paint, eh!
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Old 05-09-2018, 07:07 PM   #129
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What a relief that I didn't paint them. At least that's what the wife says. Hey, I can shake a rattle can with the best of them. And I can generate orange peal, runs, globs, thin spots, and other defects with ease. And I can fling paint with a brush and add brush marks to my list of defects.

These parts actually look good to the wife. She like them. What a relief, until the credit card bill come due. Then I will get it with both barrels; Bam! Bam!

David
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Old 05-10-2018, 02:38 PM   #130
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They look good! You are getting ahead of us on the renovation race .We got slowed down when we opted for shiny interior skins lol. But that means we will be able to learn from you as we get to the next step.
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Old 05-10-2018, 05:56 PM   #131
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I plan on polishing next winter. It is one of the last steps for me, but well worth it. I admire some of the old Overlanders that have been polished. They look great. My exterior skins are in pretty good condition, just well oxidized.

David
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Old 05-11-2018, 05:42 AM   #132
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dbj216 View Post
What a relief that I didn't paint them. At least that's what the wife says. Hey, I can shake a rattle can with the best of them. And I can generate orange peal, runs, globs, thin spots, and other defects with ease. And I can fling paint with a brush and add brush marks to my list of defects.

These parts actually look good to the wife. She like them. What a relief, until the credit card bill come due. Then I will get it with both barrels; Bam! Bam!

David
David!

The parts look amazing! I too can do all those painting techniques with ease! Plus wear the paint like famous artwork not to mention how my black labs look after a painting project. That's a lab?! I never fail to impress myself with that talent.
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Old 05-11-2018, 05:55 AM   #133
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David

The plastic parts look new, possibly even better than new in 1975. A great decision on your part.

Dan
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Old 05-11-2018, 05:56 PM   #134
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Thank you fellow vintage Airstreamers. Actually, the photos are flattering to the parts. You can still see the tub leak repairs, cracks in the counter tops, and the like in real life. Why couldn't my driver's license picture been equally flattering.

The parts are better than they were. No stains, no chalky white paint, and a nice gloss on the parts. I'm anxious to start assembling the bathroom.

But first the galley wall.

David
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Old 05-11-2018, 06:08 PM   #135
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New Galley Wall Cut

I found a good red oak laminate that has similar grain structure to the melimine that the trailer interior is made of. I want to rid my trailer of the "oven in the wall" with the "oven box" over the bed.

I used the old wall as a template. I simply cut a new wall less the oven hole out of the red oak laminate. I will keep the 115vAC outlet in this wall. I'm using a "wipe on poly" that isn't a stain and is satin in texture. My test pieces indicate it will match pretty well.

I'll install the new wall this weekend.

Then on to the bathroom.

David
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Old 05-19-2018, 05:34 PM   #136
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Working on the Bath Tub

I've struggled with the bathtub platform. The old one was not in good shape. I carefully measured the height of the top of the platform, and measured the "slope" Airstream built into it so the water would run to the drain. Seems easy enough, but for whatever reason it has taken way longer than it should have.

It is done finally. I test fitted the tub, shower valve side piece, and the countertop and the parts all stack up the way they should.

The wall between the tub and bedroom is that melamine stuff. It too was kinda in sad shape. So I removed that wall and decided I should replace it with a piece of Fiberglass Reinforced Plastic designed as a shower wall.

With the wall out, I could see why my pocket door was sticky. The header had came loose, maybe due to vibrations. The pocket door weight was on the bottom guide. I'll have to figure a way to re-hang the header so the door isn't dragging on the bottom guide.

A easy sliding pocket door is an improvement, right?

David
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Old 05-20-2018, 07:49 AM   #137
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Hi David, Just found your thread and am looking forward to following along. I just hope I can be as encouraging and helpful as you have been to my rebuild.

Mark
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Old 05-20-2018, 06:15 PM   #138
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Hi Mark: Thanks for taking a look at my "improvements" thread and for your kind words. We motorheads gotta stick together. I think I told you I met a fella here in Conifer with a Caterham Super Seven in his garage. I'm going to beg a ride this summer.

My project is less involved than yours. I believe I will have a "improved" Overlander when I'm done. Having your expertise close by will be helpful.

David
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Old 05-20-2018, 06:25 PM   #139
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Bath Pocket Door Support

I was perplexed to find the "stud" between the bedroom and bathroom walls was 4" short of the pocket door "header". The only thing I can see holding the pocket door "header" up was one rivet in the bedroom wall overhead cabinet. That rivet had pulled out and the header drooped down allowing the pocket door weight to ride on the bottom "guide".

This original "stud" was a piece of 3/4 plywood ripped to 1 3/4 wide and about 68" long. You can see it in the photo a couple of posts down. It runs parallel to the vent pipe. It acts as a "stop" for the pocket door. It was warped and weak.

So I'm replacing this vertical wall stud with one that goes from floor to pocket door header. My trial fit today demonstrates a one finger easy operation of the pocket door.

David
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Old 05-21-2018, 07:28 PM   #140
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Here is a photo of the Airstream "stud" used as a stop for the pocket door. I laid the old stud next to the new one I installed this afternoon. The new one supports the pocket door header, including the track the door rollers ride in.

You can see how the old stud was just a ripped piece of plywood and never reached the pocket door header, about 4" short. I don't understand why it was made this way. I think the new stud will offer support, will stiffen the 1/4" plywood walls some, and certainly stop the pocket door. Maybe I will find out why it was made this way later on in my project and have to tear it all apart again.

The door works good, the bedroom wall is straight. Improvement #59 done.

David
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