View Poll Results: Guess the tongue weight
under 250 lbs 3 9.68%
250 to 275 lbs 1 3.23%
275 to 300 lbs 5 16.13%
300 to 325 lbs 9 29.03%
325 to 350lbs 2 6.45%
Over 350 lbs 11 35.48%
Voters: 31. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 10-08-2010, 04:47 PM   #85
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That's a good idea. They don't call this place rocky park campground fro nothing. I could just ask a few of my calorically challenged campers to sit on the floor before I roll it under. Probably 5 or 6 of them would equal the 15000lbs..
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Old 10-09-2010, 11:31 AM   #86
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Chris,
Outstanding Job! You will have a NEW 1973. Good Luck with the Shell. I read about your return trip. That tire didn't look to healthy.
Ray
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Old 10-09-2010, 12:01 PM   #87
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Thanks a lot Ray. Yes i was alittle bit upset when it happened. Only 50 miles from home and had to wait for tow truck. Lucklilt there was a spare on the trailer. I am definately going to put one in my 73 after having gone through this.
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Old 10-10-2010, 06:57 PM   #88
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Smile The Shell is back on. Yahoo.

This morning I raised the shell up a further 8 inches to clear the wheel wells. Then we backed the chassis under the shell. It was lined up front to back and side to side. Then the shell was lowered back down to it's original position on the sawhorses.
I took lew's suggestion and blocked the frame in six points along each side. The ground was fairly level as I only needed to raise the curbside a couple of inches to get the frame level side to side. I used the tongue jack to get it level front to back. Then the frame was blocked all around. It was checked and rechecked at least three times to make absolutely sure it was exactly level all the way around.
Then we began lowering the shell off the sawhorses and back on to the chassis. The front holddown plate was the first thing to get aligned under the shell. we then began at the front and worked our way along both side to guide each rib back into the C channel. Next was to go to the back and lower the shell off the sawhorses and follow the same procedure. Guide the rear hold down plate between the C channel and the outer skin and then guide the ribs into the side C channel as the shell was lowered.
I couldn't have had better results. The shell fit back onto the floor like a glove.
We ran out of daylight so tomorrow all the cribbing will be removed and I will make sure everything is still fitting well.
The blocking of the frame will remain in place until the shell is completely riveted back on.
I intend to replace the rear skin below the rear window due to corrosion along the lower edge. I will also be replacing the entire lower skin on the roadside because it was damaged by the PO and poorly patched using steel rivets which have rusted.
Shacksman has siad he will be coming up on Thursday next week to give me a hand and teach me how to buck rivet. It should be a lot of fun.
Here are some pics of the chassis under the shell and some quick pics of the shell back on just before it got dark.
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Old 10-10-2010, 09:01 PM   #89
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1973 31' Excella 500
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Outstanding!! Your very careful work and workmanship paid off. I'm sure that all the care you took made the installation of the shell much easier. And, your cribbing must have been very well done as well. Crack open a cold one and enjoy the moment.

Good luck with the buck riveting. Something I have to look forward to learning, too.
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:05 AM   #90
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1972 31' Sovereign
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Wow and a big Congrats!!!!
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Old 10-11-2010, 08:55 AM   #91
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1986 25' Sovereign
Calgary , Alberta
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Hi Chris,

Looks great, what an accomplishment, you must feel good. I'm with Lew you deserve a cold beverage (or 2 maybe even 3.... )

Ken
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Old 10-11-2010, 10:09 AM   #92
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1973 27' Overlander
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Note: First Sarsaparilla forfeit, he didn't do his own POR-15.

I'm way envious - I stopped just short of getting the old fiberglass pressed between frame and floor out, razored the edges and hit it with compressed air and kept going - that's when I should've loosened the floor and knocked that nasty stuff out. Good on you for keeping it quality first and not compromising!
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Old 10-11-2010, 07:04 PM   #93
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Thanks a lot guys. I don't know what feels better, having the shell go back on so easily or your support and praise. A bit of both I think.
Today I did a little tweaking of fit on the shell. A few of the ribs along the side were fitting tight into the C channel and not letting the shell drop down that last 1/8". By expanding the channel a bit the shell dropped down the remainder. I tell you how well it fit some of the rivet holes in the shell have lined up exactly with the C channel. I also got the front and rear end caps channel bolted down to the frame through the floor. I overdid it on the size of bolts holding the shell front and rear to the main frame rails. This shell will never come loose with these bolts. I used the same principle for the elevator bolts, I used more than original to attach the rear holddown plate and the floor to the rearmost crossmember.
Next is to pop rivet the ribs to the channel along the sides and start drilling out rivets to remove the rear panel and the curbside lower panel to replace these panels.
No pics today nothing worth showing. Stay tuned for an update with pics on Wednesday after the panels come off.
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Old 10-12-2010, 07:46 PM   #94
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Wow awesome job
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Old 10-13-2010, 06:46 PM   #95
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Smile New Skins

Thanks FST64
Well Today Doug(shacksman) showed up early this morning and we started tackling the removal of the damaged skin on the rear and along the road(street or port) side of the trailer. I didn't take long with both of us drilling out rivets to get the skins ready for removal. I had to rent a pair of electric shears to cut the skins.
Luckliy the Excella models have a doubler skin along the side and back so I didn't have to cut the skins all the way up to the window level. The doubler is the blue painted stripe along the sides.This also saved removing about 100 rivets. We cut the skins just at the edge of the blue doubler.The new pieces were cut wide enough to go about 4 inches above the lower edge of the doubler.
We got the back skin installed and the side skin cut but got rained out before we could install it.
It turns out that the new pieces are exactly 24 inches wide so I have enough left off the roll to do the other side and replace the front section as well. They don't need to be replaced but it's good to know that I have the aluminium to do it.
At this rate by tomorrow the shell repairs will be done and I can start on insulating the underneath. Then I move on to installing new belly pan and side wrap material. It'll be good once that is done so I can get the rolls of aluminium out of the living room.
The only problem is that the new panels look so good that I will have to polish the rest of the shell now.
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Old 10-14-2010, 11:46 AM   #96
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Impressive WC, but I think the "outside outlet" you have at the rear might need a tad more weatherproofing! But seriously, the new skin on the back looks great! Can't wait to see the new sides put on!!

Where did you get the aluminum, and exactly what did you order?

Is the rest of the trailer clear coated?

MC
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:07 PM   #97
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Hey Chris that's not an outside outlet it's ahookup for 110VAC taillight.
I ordered the roll of 2024 from Airparts in Kansas. They will sell you any length you want in 4 ft width's. They then roll it up for you and box it for only $8.00 and ship UPS (commonly known as United Parcel Smashers)
Airparts does such a good job crating the roll that it arrived undamaged.
$15.75 per lineal foot for 2024 and $8.25 for 3003. The 3003 is for the side wraps. I had already ordered a full sheet the right width from Inland to do the belly pan. It comes 66 inches wide and in any length you want. This way my belly pan will be one piece from front to water tank. One Piece under the tank and one piece from the tank to the bumper. No seams to deal with. It was expensive at $788 for the 30 ft roll.
Yes the rest of the trailer is clearcoat.
I have enough to do the curb(starboard) side the same height up to the blue doubler as well as the front section. I might just do that. The new stuff looks so good.
Maybe I'll order some more and just keep going up until the whole trailer is new. NOT!
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Old 10-14-2010, 04:43 PM   #98
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Thanks for the info Chris. Is the belly pan also 3003, or something else? I suppose it's that expensive due to the 66 inch width, right? Was $788 the total including shipping? That works out to $26.26 per liner foot.

So, what are your thoughts on the clearcoat? Are you going to strip it all off and do a polish so everything matches? And then re-clearcoat, or leave the clearcoat off?

In case you can't tell, these are topics we're still pondering. Well, one of us is probably pondering it more than the other one.

Chris
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