View Poll Results: Guess the tongue weight
under 250 lbs 3 9.68%
250 to 275 lbs 1 3.23%
275 to 300 lbs 5 16.13%
300 to 325 lbs 9 29.03%
325 to 350lbs 2 6.45%
Over 350 lbs 11 35.48%
Voters: 31. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 09-11-2010, 06:10 PM   #43
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We got quite a bit of work done today. The main frame rails and all the crossmembers are now completely welded. The tank brackets are done. It took three of us to flip the frame over. After about 30 mins all the crossmembers are tacked on. The holes for the axles mounting bolts and the shock bolts are drilled out. Tomorrow the outriggers will be welded on and the A frame and tongue will welded back on. Then the axles will be mounted and the frame will be ready for paint.
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:33 PM   #44
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Hi all just a short note to say that almost all of the frame is welded in now. The outriggers are all in and the tongue is back on We had some rain delays this morning and wer about an hour from finishing when the welder ran out of wire. Just can't find that sort of thing on a Suday evening here. Completion will have to wait until I can get more wire in the morning. I'll post pictures once the axles are back on and the frame is ready for paint.
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Old 09-15-2010, 08:07 AM   #45
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Talking Welding Complete

It took until midnight last night and finally the new frame is ready. The new axles are on, the tanks have been installed for a trial fit. We hooked the tractor up to the new frame, chained off the old one to the truck and rolled the new one forward until the axles could be installed. It was very easy to install the axles. We bolted the wheels on, rolled them under the frame and used the tractor to lift or lower the frame on to the axles. The frame dropped right into place and with a small amount of adjustment the axles bolted right in.
Now I can start the prep for paint.
1) Marine clean
2) Metal Etch
3) 2 Coats POR-15
4) 2 Coats Top coat sterling silver.
Once the frame is painted I can install the floor and drop the shell back on and a few other things also.
Weather will be the issue right now, rain is forcasted on and off for a few days and it won't be very warm for painting. I realy have my fingers crossed because I need the shell back on in 11 days. Everybody pray to the rain gods for me please.
I posted a couple of pictures of the old frame. You can see the damage to the main frame rail. It just buckled and nearly broke in half. Anybody want to buy a gently used 37 yr old frame and axle set for a 31' A/S .
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Old 09-15-2010, 01:51 PM   #46
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Lookin' good, Chris! You've taken at least 25 years off that trailer so far. Keep at it like that, and soon you will have a 2015 model!
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:18 PM   #47
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1976 31' Sovereign
Greenwood , South Carolina
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Has anyone ever made the frame rails out of box steel instead of channel? It would add a good bit of strength without adding that much more weight. Especialy in leiu of so many sagging rear ends. Also what about coating the frame with Rhino liner?
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Old 09-15-2010, 09:26 PM   #48
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Musicmaster I boxed in my frame rail around the axles and at the a frame location. You could do this but the factory crossmembers would have to be cut back to fit. You also would have problems with the fresh water tank, black waste water tank and the grey waste water tank mounts. You need the space to attach the angle iron which holds up the tanks. Rhino liner would work but is a rust stopper like POR-15 or would the rusty metal continue to rust behind the Rhino and eventually fail.
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Old 09-16-2010, 11:37 AM   #49
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Yesterday morning I did a trial fir of the new floor on the new frame. I checked it for alignment and for fit to the fresh,black and grey water tanks. I also dry fitted the wheel wells, bumper cover and new rear bumper. Everything looks good. Then removed everything and applied the marine clean to the frame. Let it sit for a couple of hours and pressure washed it off. I wanted to let it dry before applying the metal etch. Today I am rained out so nothing can be done. Hoping for dry weather on Friday to do the etching and first coat of POR-15 on Saturday. Second coat on Sunday followed by the top coat while the second coat is still tacky. Monday should see the final top coat.
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Old 09-16-2010, 06:33 PM   #50
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There are way too many spots for water to hide in all those welds to rush painting after a rain. If you have rain-wetted frame even a few days back go with a compressed air blow out of the hidden nooks and crannies, I almost be saying BACK away... until you have complete dry frame - POR-15 will bubble if/when liquid moisture is present, you sure don't want to dip a wetted brush into the unused POR.

If you get slight bubbling keep brushing it down, the water catalyst will eventually be used up and the paint will lay flat. I had a micro-drop of sweat fall into the can and had the A-Frame try to bubble up -- I knew it had happened and had dipped a fresh non-synthetic brush into the same spot in the POR can and must've gotten most of it absorbed by the brush that first dip (then trashed the cheap China brush), but still had hundreds of bubbles for 90 minutes though.
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Old 09-16-2010, 07:41 PM   #51
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Thanks Wabbiteer I did plan on blowing the frame dry tomorrow before etching it. Pressure wash it again blow it dry again and the go over it with a heat gun to completely dry it out before POR-15 is applied. Anyone sprayed on the POR-15. I don't feel like brushing it on for 8 hrs like some have done. I bought a spray gun kit the other day and it worked great for the Marine Clean. I thoroughly cleaned it out after the application and let it dry. How critical is the ambient temp for POR application?
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Old 09-16-2010, 10:47 PM   #52
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Wish I could say I did, I bought a HVLP gun and auxiliary air tank to try and trap moisture but it was spitting condensation no matter what I tried so I brushed.... That, and I did not want to observe Murphy's & Darwins' Laws in action first hand as that is some gnarly paint!

I did not buy the small one-use in-line desiccant cartridges but I strongly recommend you do, and place them as near the gun as possible - with the rain you've had and the cold ground it is the same I cold & damp I was facing.

Did you pop for the POR-15 thinner? You can go online and get the Safety Data sheets on it, there is some extra ingredient that helps tame the paint - I have most of a gallon left over, if you were closer you'd have a pint on me.

Use a respirator, stack cartridges even - the worst fumes are as its curing, it was a mean hangover the next day for me.

Good luck.
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Old 09-16-2010, 10:53 PM   #53
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The more I think about it I may have a shop spray the frame due to the weather here now. Any thoughts on moving the frame at highway speeds without the shell/floor combo to stiffen it? I would at worst have to move it 30 miles each way and at best 3 miles each way if I can find a local shop in town to do it. 30 miles would be the closest large city. No I didn't buy thinner but there is a Canadian distributor not too far away. Is there thinner really important? Tame the paint? HUH splain please
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Old 09-17-2010, 01:10 AM   #54
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Tame it... To spray it the viscosity ~may~ need thinning depending on your guns directions, that was why I bought it but still used it to thin it out for brushing, even at 2 or 3% it helped stretch the quart and made top coating faster.

Google search this forum if the built-in search balks, there are a few posts on spraying POR-15.

Rope, trees and sheet plastic to put a roof over it? I think you can do it watching the radar, leave enough time inbetween coats for it to gel and have a slight grab when you brush fingertips across it... the cheapest one-use desiccants are $10 each.

I'm gone to East Coast for a few days... good luck to you.
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Old 09-17-2010, 07:53 AM   #55
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Been away for a few days. Your new frame looks great! And your old frame was in much, much worse condition than ours. Good luck with the painting this weekend Chris!

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Old 09-17-2010, 08:15 AM   #56
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Wow. You've done an amazing job, but I must admit, this thread scares the mud out of me. Our floors looked solide when we removed the carpet, but that doesn't mean there couldn't be rot under the furnishings... How could you address floor rot in those areas without dismantling the whole thing? Is there a thread on that?

Great job, Chris!!
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