View Poll Results: Guess the tongue weight
under 250 lbs 3 9.68%
250 to 275 lbs 1 3.23%
275 to 300 lbs 5 16.13%
300 to 325 lbs 9 29.03%
325 to 350lbs 2 6.45%
Over 350 lbs 11 35.48%
Voters: 31. You may not vote on this poll

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Old 12-18-2010, 09:24 PM   #253
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Power & water reel access door

Aage you can see the access door in this shot I took before I started the reno. BTW what happened to Ned? I miss the new Ned avitars.
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Old 12-18-2010, 09:29 PM   #254
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OK, it's the square-cornered door? Gotta admit, first time I see that kind of door. You sure it isn't and after-market feature, the reel? Or is it mentioned in your manual..?

Yes, I change my avatar fairly frequently, and had temporarily run out of Neds.
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Old 12-18-2010, 09:36 PM   #255
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My Excella does not have that door. I have something on the curb side in a similar place and a similar size that I cant figure out what it is/was. A previous owner covered the hole with a piece of tin, but on the inside you can see that something was riveted on there at one time. Any idea?
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Old 12-18-2010, 10:18 PM   #256
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Aage airstream lists it a standard equipment on excella's. It looks factory built because of the interior cover for it under the bed.
Daniel the 74 is listed as having the same option. I don't know why it would be curbside though. My 73 manual shows the center bath plan having the bath on the roadside. Daniel is your bath curb or road side?
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Old 12-18-2010, 11:05 PM   #257
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Well, you learn something new every day! Thanks, Chris.
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Old 12-19-2010, 12:57 AM   #258
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Our '73 Excella has the same door for the water hose and electric line and our manual shows the reels as standard equipment for the Excella. You can see the white hose coming out of it. We don't have the square door that is further to the front like yours though. Is that your water heater?
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Old 12-19-2010, 06:56 AM   #259
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Quote:
Originally Posted by driftless View Post
Our '73 Excella has the same door for the water hose and electric line and our manual shows the reels as standard equipment for the Excella. You can see the white hose coming out of it. We don't have the square door that is further to the front like yours though. Is that your water heater?
Lew the larger square door that you are talking about is the ONAN propane fired 12VDC generator. It was an option available during the 70's. Mine had never worked and when I finally tried to get it repaired the parts I needed were no longer available. I bought another one that is in good shape from a forum member. It fired right up and after replacing a couple of fuses it is nowa working generator. Like I said it is propane fired and generates 12VDC and 300 watts. It's basically a huge battery charger.
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Old 12-19-2010, 07:22 AM   #260
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I don't have that door that opens downward, but I am missing the belly pan and everything in that area. Maybe it used to be there? The first pic is roadside rear (the images are negative reversed). The second pic is curbside rear where the mystery hole is withe the piece of tin covering it.
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Old 12-19-2010, 08:34 AM   #261
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Daniel You probably had the reels and the PO removed them. The door is in the belly pan side wrap. There is a piece of plywood sitting on 2 outriggers that the reels sit on. Did you find the last 2 outriggers on the road side that had a small piece of angle iron welded to them. That is what the plywood sits on. The floor is cut out in that area. There is a plastic shroud that cover everything from the inside. the whole assembly sits under the bed. The other hole that the PO covered with tin is the hole for the water heater.
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Old 12-21-2010, 01:39 PM   #262
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New Lights

I got a small order in yesterday from LED`S4RVS. I put in the pad LED for the over the door light(porch light). It attaches quite easily and at the same time I replaced the original socket with a new one. I also installed the new light lens from INLAND RV. It didn`t fit quite right just like the original so I spent some time last night filing and sanding the edges to get it to fit tighter into the housing. Today I installed the whole assembly and also installed the new scare light. On my old one the chrome housing was very pitted so I ordered the complete unit. The new one comes with only three mounting holes and the old one had six so I drilled out the other three ones, applied butyl tape to the new housing and installed it with new stainless steel screws. The screws don`t pull the light in tight to the shell so I intend to replace them with stainless machine screws and nylon lock nuts.
I`m still waiting for the local shop to fabricate the hew fan guard for the air conditioner fan. The guard goes above the shroud on the roof. They are also fabricating a removeable screen and frame. This screen will keep all the tree droppings etc. from filling up the shroud again. The parts may be ready on Thursday and I will try to get the shroud installed over the weekend.
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Old 12-21-2010, 01:59 PM   #263
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The screws don`t pull the light in tight to the shell so I intend to replace them with stainless machine screws and nylon lock nuts.
Hi, Chris.

So, does this make the cover non-removable? Or am I not getting something (again)?

I suppose it doesn't matter since the LED lights are good for a l-o-n-g while, right?
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:12 PM   #264
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Aage it is the chrome housing that is not sitting in as tight as I would like it. The butyl tape is a little bit thicker than the original two sided foam tape. I would like to pull the housing in tighter to the shell to compress the butyl and completely seal the housing. I will of course seal it inside with vulkem and seal the outside edge with parbond. All part of my triple or quardruple method of sealing up openings. The lens is still removable and it has it`s own felt gasket to seal it. I do plan to replace the stupid phillips screws holding the lens with again stainless machine screws with the better Robertson heads.
BTW both lights come with the warning not to leave them on during the day as the heat of the LED and sunshine plus daytime temps will cause premature failure of the LED. So I guess they don`t last forever.
I had a conversation with Dan at LED`S4RVS yesterday. We talked about interior lights. he has a 42 LED pad for the ceiling fixtures which give off 1042 lumens (equivalent to 100 Watt incandescant) and only uses 133 milliamps of power comared to the original 10 watt bulb that uses 1.2 amps. That is amazing 10 times the light for about one tenth the power consumption. They are however 20 times the price of the original bulbs.
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Old 12-21-2010, 02:22 PM   #265
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Aage it is the chrome housing that is not sitting in as tight as I would like it. The butyl tape is a little bit thicker than the original two sided foam tape. I would like to pull the housing in tighter to the shell to compress the butyl and completely seal the housing. I will of course seal it inside with vulkem and seal the outside edge with parbond. All part of my triple or quardruple method of sealing up openings. The lens is still removable and it has it`s own felt gasket to seal it. I do plan to replace the stupid phillips screws holding the lens with again stainless machine screws with the better Robertson heads.
OK, I have never taken my scare light apart (it's one of the few lights that worked from when I bought the TT) so didn't know the lens would come off without removing the chrome ring.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
BTW both lights come with the warning not to leave them on during the day as the heat of the LED and sunshine plus daytime temps will cause premature failure of the LED. So I guess they don`t last forever.
That's scary, but good to know. It's pretty bright anyways, so I really don't use it much.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
I had a conversation with Dan at LED`S4RVS yesterday. We talked about interior lights. he has a 42 LED pad for the ceiling fixtures which give off 1042 lumens (equivalent to 100 Watt incandescant) and only uses 133 milliamps of power comared to the original 10 watt bulb that uses 1.2 amps. That is amazing 10 times the light for about one tenth the power consumption. They are however 20 times the price of the original bulbs.
I was thinking of putting those strips of LEDs in the existing fixture, but I was hoping they would come down in price a bit more. I know the payback vs. cost won't happen in my lifetime, but when I bought Henri, I replaced ALL the bulbs in ALL the fixtures, and it cost a bundle. I want to get SOME use from them, I don't see anyone wanting to buy a bunch of used ones...
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Old 12-21-2010, 03:14 PM   #266
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12 volt generator?

Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Lew the larger square door that you are talking about is the ONAN propane fired 12VDC generator. It was an option available during the 70's. Mine had never worked and when I finally tried to get it repaired the parts I needed were no longer available. I bought another one that is in good shape from a forum member. It fired right up and after replacing a couple of fuses it is nowa working generator. Like I said it is propane fired and generates 12VDC and 300 watts. It's basically a huge battery charger.
It runs on propane, how is it vented? I see a bottom vent, but what about risk of exhaust within the trailer?

Is it vented like a water heater would be? How long did it take to bring the battery up to proper charge? Would you run it constantly, or intermittently?

I'm thinking that would no longer be available as an option (?).
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