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Old 01-10-2011, 07:42 PM   #85
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I like it!
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Old 01-16-2011, 09:06 AM   #86
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Got a break from the cold this MLK holiday weekend. Up in the 60s here. Hoping to have the chassis ready for the shell to go on by the end of monday.

The rear end of my AS had serious problems when I got it. All of the lookouts on the curb side aft of the axles were gone. The PO had decided to replace the plywood floor with a terrible cut had made the floor an inch or so to wide which over time had bowed the walls out.

Big problem was how to get a good cut on the aft floor piece. This caused me considerable angst.

The solution was to remove the U channel from the rear of the shell and use it for a pattern.
Decent ideas come to those who are willing to wait and suffer..

In the second pic, I ran out of Verathane so the plywood piece that supports the fresh water tank gets liberal doses of stain. I still need to seal the edges. I think that I have enough epoxy left to do that and the rear floor piece.

Left to do before shell on:
- At least drill the holes in the chassis for the spare tire carrier to attach.
- Cut and stain sidewalls for fresh water box
- Cut and seal last floor piece.
- Finish second and final coat of rust seal (silver) on the chassis. I can finish this with a small paint roller.
- Attach new drain pipes and valves to gray and black tanks.
- Cut solid piece for floor under doorway. The original has a floor break directly under the doorway with the only support under the break. I'm going to cut a solid piece for that so that all floor breaks rest on the chassis.
- Repair wheel wells.

If I can get all of this done today and tomorrow all that will be left is to screw the floor on.
-
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:04 PM   #87
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I put it off until the last minute, but had to break down and order new axles. There was just no getting around it.
Dexter #11, 4400 lbs with 12" electric brakes, hubs, drums, 22.5 down angle.
$560 each. Ouch!
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Old 01-17-2011, 12:46 PM   #88
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Just a thought... if you're replacing the axles, cut the bolts (or try and see if they loosen) for the old axles now before the floor goes over them... saves you from trying to do that from below. If it will be awhile before the axles come, can you put the wood over the axles on last? Again, easier from above then below.
Looks good!
Marc
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Old 01-17-2011, 03:37 PM   #89
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Yes, that is kinda what drove me to do it now, the floor is ready to go on and I kept looking at the old rusty axles. They said 10 days until the axles get here.

The chassis and the axle bolts are new so they should come off pretty good, but the fabricator spot welded the axle bracket to the frame. I think that I got that taken care of with the angle grinder.

Gonna wait until axles on before floor goes on. Thanks for looking out!
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Old 01-22-2011, 01:45 PM   #90
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Wall moisture brainstorm

This one has been racking my brain for a while.. I think that I might have some closure on this one.

OK, so moisture will build up in the walls and drain downward into the JC channel. It sits there long enough and finds its way through to the floor.. to the most vulnerable area of the floor.. the edges.
So what to do?
Epoxy the edges of the wood. Ok, what about the surface plywood under the wall?

I decided to do as I've seen others do and put flashing tape around the edges of the plywood. Doing that will still allow the moisture to leak inside from the flashing tape.
Solution.. on the inside bend the flashing tape up alongside the JC channel and wall. No water can get inside. Awesome..
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:19 PM   #91
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I made another grisly discovery yesterday, and I was reading through Chris' thread and think that he had the same problem. Here it is...

It was covered up on the outside with a flimsy piece of Alum. and on the inside with this thing..

The thing on the right.. is that the hold down plate I wonder? It looks kinda fancy. It was riveted to the wall stud things.
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:29 PM   #92
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While I'm piddling around here waiting for the axles to arrive (Thurs. maybe?) I thought that I'd catch up some pictures.

Kind of a big problem with the wheel wells. Really wanted to repair them if possible. As long as I could make them water tight and wouldn't have to buy new ones..

The first two are before, the last 4 are after.

I used pieces of interior wall aluminum to stabilize and close the cracks and holes. Then filled in the cracks with plastic bumper repair kit stuff (thanks for the tip).
I had some trouble finding the plastic bumper repair kit, but just happened to stop by an auto parts store that catered to paint and body shops and they had it.
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:35 PM   #93
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And this is kinda late, but maybe better late than never.
Earlier I said I was going to post a picture of the knee walls that I used to raise and support the shell. I only used these on the back because I had to totally redo the bracing back there after I got the shell off. If I had to do it all over again, I'd use these on the back and front.
These made it much easier for me to jack up the shell, because I could jack it up at any spot independent of where the supports underneath were.

Notice that the knee walls extend below the shell.
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:36 PM   #94
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Daniel yes I had the same problem with the back of mine. The corrosion that took place between the steel rear holddown plate and the lower outer skin section of the end cap and the C channel completely rotted out the outer skin. I had to relpace it. The new holddown plate I had made was much thicker than the original. I PO-15'd the plate and sealed up every joint, rivet and seam thoroughly with scads of vulkem to make sure it won't leak again. Every solid rivet was sealed, every pop rivet was sealed, every seam was sealed, the lower beltline trim had the back buttered with vulkem before instalation and the sealed with Parbond along the top edge. The problem arises with the rear bumper cover channeling water back into the edge of the shell and by not having the shell sealed water leaks in and corrosion occurs between two dissimilar metals. Many have modified this connection point to not allow this type of problem again.
I'm not sure what the thing in your second pic is. Was that from the front or rear? It is about the same size as the front holddown plate. I did have a second piece of aluminium over the front plate and it is only to trim out or "finish" the plate for appearances only.
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:38 PM   #95
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It is from the back inside. It must be the trim thing you speak of. I think the rear hold down plate is long gone.
The rear hold down plate is on the inside against the shell and rivets to the shell?
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:41 PM   #96
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Daniel the whhel wells looks like only one side and that the tire was rubbing on them which caused the hole. Was that from the shell shifting due to the PO's poor work?
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:42 PM   #97
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You don't miss much, do you? Exactly correct.
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Old 01-23-2011, 04:44 PM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielB View Post
It is from the back inside. It must be the trim thing you speak of. I think the rear hold down plate is long gone.
The rear hold down plate is on the inside against the shell and rivets to the shell?
Rear holddown needs no finish trim as it is not seen at all from outside. The front holddown plate that is welded to the A frame however is visible from the exterior and need the aluminium trim to finish it.
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