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Old 01-09-2011, 05:36 PM   #71
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Calling it a weekend. The days are getting a bit longer, which is good.

I've just been working on weekends because when I get home from work it is dark (and cold) and the things that I have had to do have been involved enough so that I would have to pull a number of "infrastructure" items out into the back yard and then pack them back in when I am finished. Too much trouble.

The biggest burr in my butt this week was a missing angle iron (and hangars) for the front support of the black tank. I pondered and fretted all week about having to get the angle iron, rent a welder, etc..
I wound up getting two 6" Simpson Strong-tie angle brackets, bolted them to the outside of the main rails and bolted the angle iron to the L brackets. Relieved to get that done.
I cut the floor pieces around the wheel wells and put one coat of water based Verathane on one side. I still have the last two pieces of floor to cut at the rear. One is a straight cut and one is the curved cut at the back.
I had to get more epoxy hardener.
I got the 1/2 pex and some T's and 90 degree connectors and sorta laid out the main water lines.
Got some new pieces for the black/gray evacuation contraption on the back. Still need to get the valves. Camping world does bankers hours.
I used the angle grinder to cut a couple round holes in cross members for water and heater lines to pass through.
Got one quart of silver KBR for the second coat of chassis rustproofing. Need to get at least one more.

I'm gonna see how much I can get done now in the evenings after work. If I can get the second coat of rustproofing on the frame and get the floor attached this week..
Big Baby may get lowered on to her new frame next weekend.. HooYa!
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Old 01-09-2011, 05:49 PM   #72
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Hi Daniel just a couple of things. Don't forget to run your wiring to the brakes and to the tongue jack and break away switch before the floor goes back on. These harnesses run inside the frame and will be much easier to install without the floor in the way. Secondly the waste valves you will need must have the extension handles on them so they will reach outside the frame rail.
The big stuff like what you're doing now make the progress go quickly. I'm piddling away now just cleaning and polishing and waiting for Spring so I can really start the inside.
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Old 01-09-2011, 05:57 PM   #73
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Chris, I think the PO's did so much Jerry-rigging on this thing that I don't trust at all the way things were when it came apart.

The wiring from the front where the tow vehicle plugs in came in and back out through a hole cut in the floor in the front wall. There was a piece of reducer pvc pipe stuck in the hole and the wire went down through it to underneath.

Same kind of deal on power coming in from the back. The 30A extension cord lived in the rear bumper. the wire came from it to the underside roadside rear into some box that was screwed onto the floor underneath between outriggers, then a bundle of wires came out of the mystery box and came up through a (pvc lined) hole just aft of the roadside wheel well.
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:01 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Secondly the waste valves you will need must have the extension handles on them so they will reach outside the frame rail.
I was wondering how that was going to work. I was thinking of maybe rigging something up so that i could open the valves from inside. I think the extensions would be preferable to that.
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Old 01-09-2011, 06:59 PM   #75
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Waste outlet

Daniel here is the pic of the waste outlet. You can see the 3' outlet with the cap on it and on either side are the tee handles on the extension rods which attach to the dump(gate) valves. I also added a couple of pics showing the valves and the tanks installed before the floor went on.
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Old 01-09-2011, 07:14 PM   #76
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Very slick. Thank you very much.
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Old 01-09-2011, 07:35 PM   #77
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DanielB View Post
Chris, I think the PO's did so much Jerry-rigging on this thing that I don't trust at all the way things were when it came apart.

The wiring from the front where the tow vehicle plugs in came in and back out through a hole cut in the floor in the front wall. There was a piece of reducer pvc pipe stuck in the hole and the wire went down through it to underneath.

Same kind of deal on power coming in from the back. The 30A extension cord lived in the rear bumper. the wire came from it to the underside roadside rear into some box that was screwed onto the floor underneath between outriggers, then a bundle of wires came out of the mystery box and came up through a (pvc lined) hole just aft of the roadside wheel well.
Daniel the 7 pin umbilical should have a connector which is mounted on the lower flat section of the front end cap below the front lift up window. it passes through the front hold down plate and the wiring for the running lights,brake lights,reverse lights and turn signals from inside the trailer as well as the harness from the brakes and the tongue jack/break away switch all attach to the connector at that point. The brake & tongue jack harness exit the shell through the c channel in the front end cap on the road side and go into the main frame rail. The brake harness travels down the frame rail and comes out roadside at the axles. It splits into three points there. 2 travel out through the belly and attach to each brake roadside and the third travel across the frame inside the belly to the curbside and splits again into two and exits the belly at each axle to attach to the curbside brakes.
The tongue jack/breakaway switch harness exits the frame roadside at the rearward edge of the A-frame and travels forward through the A-frame and comes out right under the tongue to travel up to the jack and break away switch.
I'll get you some pics later because my camer's batteries are dead.
The shore power wiring will be a whole other kettle of fish. Originally you had the reel set ups like mine and the PO removed them and did his jerry rigging. You'll have to decide how you want to correct this. Personally I love the reels but they are expensive to purchase.
Chris.
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:23 PM   #78
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Thanks for the explanation. I will be referencing this as I go.
Pics are unnecessary. I think I have it. What I don't understand is what part of this is easier with the shell off?
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:34 PM   #79
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Daniel it's mostly an access thing. It's a lot easier to run the harnesses through the frame, crossmembers and A-frame while standing up instead of lying on your back. I also attached my harnesses to the frame rails and suspended them half way up the vertical side of the rail. That way they won't be caught by a drill, rivet or floor screw while attaching the floor or belly. Drilling the holes for the rubber insulated mounting clamps is also easier while standing up and you have more room to manouver without the floor in the way. I also installed all the water tanks and waste outlet pipeing before the floor went on. Same reasoning. BTW attach all the fittings to your fresh water tank before installing it into the trailer. Then all you need to do is attach the hoses after. P.S. do you have the wiring for the fresh and black tank probes attached to the tanks. Make sure they come up through the floor before you attach the floor.
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:35 PM   #80
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Makes perfect sense. You just saved me from some dirty work. Thanks again.
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Old 01-09-2011, 08:47 PM   #81
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Another question. I have a layout of the fresh water plumbing from the service manual. My AS had no fresh water plumbing at all.

What part, if any, of the fresh water lines should run beneath the floor?
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Old 01-09-2011, 09:07 PM   #82
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Daniel short answer none. Long answer The city water connection on the main frame rail roadside at the rear below the bumper door cover enters the trailer through the main frame rail and travels forward in the belly until just inside the shell and comes up through the floor roadside and connects to the pressure regulator under the roadside bed. The line travels forward under the bed and in my case attaches to the water hose reel and continues forward inside the bedroom closet and then inside the roadside wardrobe underneath the box over the roadside wheel well. It enters the kitchen pantry at which point it goes down under the floor and crosses over to the curbside of the trailer. It passes from roadside to curbside inside the area for the fresh water tank across the rearward edge of the fresh water tank. Then it turns 90 degrees and travels forward until the forward edge of the fresh water tank. There will be a tee with a low point drain exiting the belly through the fresh water tank plywood. another tee will connect to the supply from the fresh water tank and then travel up to supply the kitchen sink. It the travels back along the curbside inside the kitchen counter cabinet and under the shower pan to supply the shower, bathroom sink and finally the hot water tank. The hot water supply then travels forward to the bathroom sink,shower and under the shower pan and into the kitchen cabinet to supply the kitchen sink. Does that make sense to you? To summarize the only water lines under the floor are the initial connection for city water supply and the section inside the fresh water tank area to cross the trailer.
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Old 01-10-2011, 05:11 AM   #83
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Got it. The diagram makes more sense now.

The good news is that there is not a whole lot that needs to be done under the floor before getting the shell back on, but as you say, sometimes the littler things take more time than the big things.
I'm getting excited now that hopefully very soon I'll be able to get the shell back on.
I appreciate all of your help.
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Old 01-10-2011, 06:17 AM   #84
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You could move the city water inlet above the floor by putting a connector in the skin. That is how mine was done.
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