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Old 01-02-2011, 08:59 AM   #57
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Daniel it's #20 on that parts list. It actually goes under the floor sheetsand sits on top of the two outriggers. Once the shell is back on the door frame is bolted down through the floor and into the angle aluminium. Did you not have this part when you pulled the shell? I'll get some pics but they won't show much now that everything is back together on mine.
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:39 AM   #58
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Unfortunately that part was missing. Should be easy to replace though.

I think I understand. The 1/8 that needs to be removed is from the thickness of the floor where the angle iron is and also 1/8 out of the width of the plywood floor at the edge?
The angle is on the outside pointing downward so that there is 1/8" outside of the step outriggers?
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Old 01-02-2011, 09:50 AM   #59
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Daniel actually the entire thickness nedds to be notched out so that angle piece is flush with the edge of the floor and then door frame will be flush to floor.
Here's some pics. I hope they help. You can see the angle piece from outside it has the three little snaps on it. They were for a screen room for my old awning. You won't need the snaps I just mentioned them as a reference point to find the part in the pics.
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:00 AM   #60
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awesome. I see now.
In the top right picture I don't see any bolts coming down through the angle iron. How does the angle iron attach to the door frame?
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Old 01-02-2011, 10:38 AM   #61
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The bolts go down through the door frame in each corner. You should have two holes in the bottom of the door frame in each corner. You won't be able to see them from below because they come down outside of the step opening.
I haven't put mine in yet.
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Old 01-02-2011, 02:18 PM   #62
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Fabulous work (as usual) Chris. So, did you fabricate the box from aluminum, then TIG weld it?
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Old 01-02-2011, 02:32 PM   #63
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Aage what you are seeing is a sheet of aluminium sitting on top of the left & right step outrigger and the main frame rail. The outriggers and frame rail are painted with the POR-15 silver paint which makes them look aluminium and the seams where the sheet meets the frame & outriggers are sealed with vulkem.
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Old 01-02-2011, 03:00 PM   #64
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Ima call this a weekend. This weekend I:
-finished painting the rustproofing on the chassis
-Got 7 sheets of plywood from Lowes for the floor.
-Cut the first 3 sheets (front to back)
-Got some epoxy and sealer from West Marine.
-Epoxied the edges of the 3 sheets of plywood that were cut.
-first time using epoxy
-Got a 4" angle grinder from Lowes. The skids on the new chassis were all the way to the end of the main rails, leaving no room on the bottom for the bumper. Grinded those out so the bumper will go on.
-first time using an angle grinder.
-the grinder will be used again on the outriggers for the steps. They were made the same length as the other outriggers so need to be ground down some.

I'll be working on the plywood as I go toward the back. Before I get there I have to figure out what to do with the waste tanks.

- I hate the way they have the drain to the gray water tank sticking up out of the floor. This makes the shower need to be elevated from the floor of the trailer. Like there wasn't enough head room as it was. I'd really like to have the shower drain as close to flush with the floor as possible. Gonna need to jerry rig the input to the gray tank. Maybe lower the tank as well.

- Looking to have an aux drain for the gray tank as well, so I can just dump that quickly when nobody is looking.
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Old 01-02-2011, 03:52 PM   #65
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Daniel did you find a sheet thick enough for ther fresh water tank to sit on?
As for the gray tank you can't get it to get any lower because of the axles. You could use a smaller tank and then the Ptrap for the shower and the grey inlet could be lowered into the space left over from the larger tank.
Congarts on a hard weekends work. just think maybe 50 or 100 more and you'll be done.
Chris
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Old 01-02-2011, 04:07 PM   #66
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Chris,
I don't think that I have ever seen 1" plywood.
Does the height of the fresh water tank relative to the floor matter for anything?
I have some 3/4" plywood laying around I could use.

On the fresh water tank... I look at the drawing in the service manual and I see the outlet located bottom/middle of the tank. There are two small screw in things on each side of the tank near the top. They are not on the drawing. Know what they are?
They have a screw in and (both of mine are broke off) looks like maybe a nipple.
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Old 01-02-2011, 04:20 PM   #67
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Daniel you have to get the tank up at the right height to stop it from sliding around in the space. Why don't you laminate two 1/2" pieces together.
The two smal screw in things are tank vents they tee together and go onto the small nipple of the fresh water fill compartment. When you are filling the fresh tank the water occupies space that was filled with air and the air needs to have somewhere to escape to.
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Old 01-05-2011, 07:20 PM   #68
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Making some progress on getting the shower down to floor level.. Different type of trap to use in place of a p trap..
Hepvo Waterless Valve from Drain Master
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Old 01-05-2011, 10:16 PM   #69
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Interesting. How much is it?
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Old 01-06-2011, 05:32 AM   #70
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$25. Something still may need to be done with the tank/inlet inlet in order to eliminate the shower platform. Not sure yet.
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