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Old 12-21-2010, 07:32 PM   #43
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I also need to figure out what to use to seal a couple splits in the plastic wheel wells.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:00 PM   #44
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The cross members are generally 2' on center.. and those support the subfloor too. If you remove them won't that take away support for the floor?
Right, but supporting the floor doesn't require a full, solid box section. I'm not criticizing your frame at all - I think it's wonderfully solid.

I'm more thinking that given the increased rigidity and depth of the frame, certain... liberties... can be taken, within original design limits.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:13 PM   #45
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I also need to figure out what to use to seal a couple splits in the plastic wheel wells.
Daniel I used a repair kit for plastic bumpers. It's a 2 part epoxy and a mesh dries hard as a rock in a couple of hours. It's actually stronger than the plastic now. I got it at a local auto parts store.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:16 PM   #46
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Right, but supporting the floor doesn't require a full, solid box section. I'm not criticizing your frame at all - I think it's wonderfully solid.

I'm more thinking that given the increased rigidity and depth of the frame, certain... liberties... can be taken, within original design limits.
No.. I didn't take what you were saying as criticism.. I thought that you were saying that you were just going to remove a bunch of cross members.. and I was like.. What about the floor?
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:21 PM   #47
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Daniel I used a repair kit for plastic bumpers. It's a 2 part epoxy and a mesh dries hard as a rock in a couple of hours. It's actually stronger than the plastic now. I got it at a local auto parts store.
Sounds perfect! Thanks..

I see some people have these fabricated wheel wells.. seen from the inside they look like metal boxes.. are these in place of the plastic wheel wells or an addition over top of the plastic wheel wells?
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:28 PM   #48
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I think in place of the original inner wheel wells. Do you have the outer yellow plastic ones? I know yours was gutted when you got it.
I think 50's trailers had original metal wheel wells.
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:31 PM   #49
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The ones that were on it are these black things.. the PO also gave me a set of yellow ones.. I really didn't know what they were for. The yellow ones seem not as tall as the black ones.. I haven't measured them..
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:38 PM   #50
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yellow on top of black with insulation in between
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Old 12-21-2010, 09:41 PM   #51
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Awesome..
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Old 01-01-2011, 10:23 AM   #52
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rustproofed

Painting on the rustproofing junk is no walk in the park.
Next up cutting plywood and getting tanks situated.
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Old 01-01-2011, 10:39 AM   #53
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I've started cutting the floor and ran into an issue. In the bottom left picture the crossmember between where the steps go is where the plywood breaks, but there is no support there above the steps.
Do I cut the main floor around the area above the steps and cut a separate piece for the area above the steps?
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:15 AM   #54
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Daniel Keep the floor sheets whole. You must notch out about 1/4" of the width of the sheets across the length of the door opening. There is an aluminium L angle that spans that opening and sits below the door frame. Oce the L angle and the door frame are attached together they create a solid connection and the floor will not flex. Don't forget to install a piece of aluminium sheet to cover the bottom of the floor above the steps as this area is not enclosed by the belly pan. If you need I can get some pics for you.
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Old 01-01-2011, 11:54 AM   #55
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Hopefully I'll be finding the pieces for that then. Thanks, Chris.
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:25 AM   #56
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Chris,

Is this the angle iron that we are talking about? on the attached pdf file it is #20.

I know yours is put back together, but if you do have any pictures they would be tremendously helpful.
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