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Old 04-10-2011, 10:27 AM   #295
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Well.. I've been working on this thing pretty much non-stop since the first week of December. There have been two times that I have felt like I've reached the top of some hill where I can stop and take a breath and feel good. The first was when I got the shell back resting on top of the chassis. The second is today. Not sure why today is a big deal. Somehow it just is.

I finished insulating under the outriggers today. The underbelly pieces are cut and fitted and tacked on and ready for riveting.
The only thing left to do otherwise is to trim around the wheel wells to fit a second trim piece on, and, of course, to paint them with undercoating.
Total cost on this around $30.

I'm thinking for the back and front I might go with spay on foam insulation.
The battery box won't be going back in.
The area under the frame where the spare goes will be insulated. Spare will go in the TV.
The hole in the floor where the hose reels went will be insulated as well. Impractical in my view. That area will be insulated as well.
There will be no areas of the floor that are not insulated.

Time to take a shower, do a little shopping, do laundry, and go pick up some Excella emblems that the PO emailed me that he had for me. Thanks Lionel. You are the man!
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Old 04-11-2011, 05:59 AM   #296
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Insulation issues.

Do I want to sacrifice floor insulation in order to have a spare tire carrier, fold out steps, and a box for hose reels?
No. Insulation in the floor overrides those things.

Windows? Convert the double pane to single pane and reduce the insulation ability of the windows in order to get to the inside to remove bubbled film?
Right now I'm leaning toward no. Replace the gaskets, throw some dark film on the windows and let it ride.
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Old 04-12-2011, 12:42 AM   #297
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You are so well insulated and using high efficiency foams I would probably put the tire rack and steps back in.. not sure about the reels I seemed to backlash the power cord a lot in my younger years. It was a tight fit for my arm to get up and get it back on track.

Have you got room for 2" of insulation. You could put a 3/4" add a 1/4" or so air gap and another 3/4" sheet and with the thermal break improve the R-value. Put a few 1/4" spacers in to keep the sheets separated.

You have done a great job of stopping air infiltration from what I have see, so having a couple of small areas of less insulation wont make much difference in anything, at least compared to the original.

I hope to start taking my interior apart tomorrow in the front and rear of mine and inspect under the floor in my weak flooring area.
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Old 04-12-2011, 06:22 AM   #298
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Thank you for your insights.
Good luck with your project. This can turn into a lot of work really quickly. Is your floor weak from water from the topside of the floor?

At this point in the process these side wrap areas are necessary to do first in order to get the shell completely riveted on.

When looking at the underside, the amount of area that is without insulation is disturbing, especially where the spare tire goes. That is a lot of area. I'll have plenty of time to consider alternatives because I believe that the center part of the belly pan will the the last thing that is done and can wait for a long while

The thinking on the steps is this. I had an old motorhome before and in it there was a box that was used for a step. It set right inside the door and I just pulled it out and set it down whenever needed. I never went in without using the box, so it never got in the way. If I had a decent set of steps I could follow the same routine. I'm thinking that I'd rather step on real steps than the fold out things, they are practical, and I get to insulate the floor by the door where the fold outs would live. I can't see a practical reason to have the fold out steps.

When they built the chassis using 5" C channel, they lowered every other crossmember 3/4" for the plywood floor breaks, so on the underside the available area for insulation is ~5 3/4". This insulation that I'm using now is for 2x6 walls and says 6 1/2" (5 1/2 is with of 2x6) so it is great size (and cheap) and is R19.

Beginning with the idea of an entirely insulated floor at R19 as a beginning point, I can work on some compromises and adjustments as I go.
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Old 04-12-2011, 06:54 AM   #299
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Just had a thought. My Airstream will be less like a luxury liner and more like a warship.

USS Excello!

Thanks for the emblems, Loinel.
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Old 04-17-2011, 08:05 AM   #300
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Sheet metal work is bad enough. Add rolling around on the ground..
Anyway, got the side underbelly situation rounded out. All pieces are tacked on and the fit looks pretty good and I think I'm ready to start the riveting.

Still need to do some trim work around the wheel wells. I think it came together pretty well. I am satisfied.
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Old 04-17-2011, 08:20 AM   #301
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Hey Daniel it's really starting to come together now. looking good. I've got a question for you though. In the third pic showing the view from the front, is that the hold down plate I can see in front of the shell? If it is it is supposed to go between the shell and the front section of the C channel.
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Old 04-17-2011, 09:30 AM   #302
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No that is some other thin aluminum cover thing that I assumed went on the outside. The hold down plate is on the inside. Maybe that piece of aluminum should be on the inside as well?
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Old 04-17-2011, 10:34 AM   #303
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No that is some other thin aluminum cover thing that I assumed went on the outside. The hold down plate is on the inside. Maybe that piece of aluminum should be on the inside as well?
Daniel I h8 2 b the bearer of bad news but yes it is suppossed to be inside as well. On mine it is pop riveted to the bottom lip of the holddown pl8. If yours is the same you might be able to drill out those rivets and slip the cover sheet up iside the shell and rerivet it.
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Old 04-17-2011, 11:08 AM   #304
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I'll see if I can do that. I just got my buck riveting stuff. I was going to have to drill those out anyway.
Having it on the inside should help mitigate any corrosion and maybe leak less.
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Old 04-24-2011, 09:15 AM   #305
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Slow Men Workin

Things on the plate right now are

1) Buck riveting the shell back to the chassis (C channels and hold down plates). Waiting for my helper (teenage son) to finish school and come home for the summer.

2) Finding leaks and temporarily or permanently sealing them (this will be ongoing)

3) Fits and starts on shoring up electrical and plumbing (ongoing).

4) Get interior ready to lay the tile floor.
-- this is the major effort this weekend.

The floor is attached and the seams bondo'd. I'm thinking sanding the floor and laying the tile should be one weekend.

Before that I wanted to get the 'boxes' in place in the interior. Boxes around the wheel wells and boxes for the outside storage compartments.

With the wheel wells I decided to kill two birds with one stone. Instead of using the interior wheel wells to hold the insulation, I'll just build a box around the outer wheel well, seal around the wheel well and use the big insulation between the wheel well and the box. I made the boxes so that the tops are removable.

I still need one more box forward of the streetside wheel well for outside storage.

I'll probably wait until I get the shell riveted, seals redone around the windows, and plug more leaks before I lay the tile.
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Old 04-24-2011, 06:45 PM   #306
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I'm pretty sure that the bathroom will be a toilet of some sort and one of these or something like it. Not plastic. I can use this to wash myself and to wash clothes, put wet stuff.. all sorts of uses, I'm sure. No shower.
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:02 PM   #307
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One more thing off of the list.
This evening I cut and fitted insulation for the wheel wells.
It is the same R19 unfaced insulation that I used for the outer belly wraps.

It took 3 sheets of 1/2" plywood at $15 a sheet and maybe a half a roll of the $15 roll of insulation to make all of the boxes and insulate the wheel wells. The outside storage boxes will need to be insulated with something yet to be determined.

Two pet peeves I have decided that I have are
1) Insulation
2) Space

I'm going to need as much open space as possible.
I threw up a piece of plywood to get an idea of countertop space.
When I laid the stovetop and sink that I have on the plywood it took up most all of the space, so I won't be using either of them. One deep sink and a two burner stovetop will be good, I think, and I buy more counter top space.

I hate the shower. Mostly because the sitting down part takes up a lot of vertical space that could be used for a better purpose, like a linen closet or something.
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Old 04-28-2011, 11:18 PM   #308
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Tread lightly Grasshopper!

Keep tabs on ACTUAL weight - 3 pounds per square foot per inch of thickness according to APA Plywood Design Specification makes each sheet of 1/2" above 40 pounds...

R19, 6-1/4'' x 23'' x 39'2'', Unfaced Roll Fiberglass Insulation 75.07 SQFT is 19~ pounds so its about 1/4 pound per square foot...

For pine 2x4's you are at 1 to 1.2 pounds per foot of length so the wheel well bracing is at or over 50 pounds...

So I calculate you added 150 to 175 pounds when including the fasteners and caulking...
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