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Old 04-06-2011, 07:23 PM   #281
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I appreciate your honesty. I don't see the cutting corners thing though. The aluminum from the interior is thick and sturdy and I think that it will hold up better than the usual stuff. I can't use it on the interior anyway, so it's either that or throw it away.

For the interior I'm thinking wood paneling.

How it looks is only of marginal importance.
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Old 04-06-2011, 07:28 PM   #282
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Daniel well it's a little like closing the barn door after the horse is gone now that you've already started but the interior skins are actually part of the structural integrity of the shell. I don't think wood panelling will do the same job.
Why do you say you can't use the skins anyway?
What are you going to use for the center section of the belly which is 65 inches wide. None of the interior skins are that wide?
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Old 04-06-2011, 07:40 PM   #283
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I couldn't reuse the interior skins because sections because they just wouldn't work with the new floor-plan that I have in mind.
I don't know about the underbelly.
Wood is just an idea. Aluminum might be good for the interior.
My goal is to keep the entire project under 10K including the initial cost of the trailer.
Just the ac, furnace, water pump, water heater, and all of that junk will take me to around 10K.
The interior panels are critical though because they can't easily be taken off and replaced like a belly pan.
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:02 PM   #284
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Good luck Daniel.
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Old 04-06-2011, 08:08 PM   #285
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Thanks Ann. It's all good.
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Old 04-07-2011, 06:58 PM   #286
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Ok.. I had to follow through with the underbelly thing just to a point where I could see in real life what I was thinking in my mind.

Got a can of rubber undercarriage spray, sprayed one of the underbelly pieces that I had cut and tacked everything in place.

It turned out better than I expected. I think that it is going to look awesome. I am missing one banana wrap anyway so I'll go ahead and get 4 new banana wraps and have them black.

Everything beneath the bottom trim will be black. I think that it sets off the gray aluminum very well. Yes, it is gonna be awesome.

I definitely won't be having the big blue stripe down the side. Am I the only one who think that looks gaudy? Ugliest thing ever IMO.

I will have a few seats from my new old passenger van. These will be my first furnishings. I'll take the bottoms off and construct some boxes (with carpet or something on the bottom). I'll get to check how their color matches with the new tile.

Awesomeness..
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:14 PM   #287
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Update on the awesome bases. Not awesome. They seem to do good as long as there is no "pull" on them. For the smaller wires they are doing fine. For the romex, not.

So I checked into the double sided automotive trim tape. At around $9 for 15 feet of the wide stuff. Too much for me.

Went back to Lowes and found these Romex holders. A bag of 100 costs around $4. Taking nails out and using screws (actually 1 screw is sufficient) into the wall and ceiling bows to hold up the Romex. Shouldn't need to use many.

Have you thought about using either a tie wrap with a hole in the end that you could rivet to the bows or a sticky back for tie wraps that has a hole that can be secured with a rivet. The regular sticky backs will stick to the outer shell for a long time if its clean and you tie wrap to them
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Old 04-07-2011, 07:47 PM   #288
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The regular stick backs that I got are not holding up on anything horizontal. I'll keep an eye out.
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Old 04-07-2011, 10:13 PM   #289
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I am missing one banana wrap anyway
Which corner is non wrapped?
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Old 04-07-2011, 10:31 PM   #290
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I happen to like the Excella blue stripe...
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Old 04-08-2011, 06:06 AM   #291
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Which corner is non wrapped?
It is the streetside rear.
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Old 04-09-2011, 02:12 AM   #292
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The regular stick backs that I got are not holding up on anything horizontal. I'll keep an eye out.

They would have to come from a electrical supply like Grabar Supply Not sure what is in your area. I think you have found your solution. They are made to hold large conductors in a service pane and cabinets. The ones I have are nylon not sure of the brand.

I am thinking about using a Wilson art laminate with a thin metal laminated to it. I haven't gotten far enough to price it yet. I checked Home Depot and they don't have it. I plan to start out using it in the bathroom.
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Old 04-09-2011, 05:45 PM   #293
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I went back by the electrical wholesale place today and the stickers looked like the same as at Lowes. It's all good though. I'll use the romex holder things that I have and they should work fine. I have a whole bag of them anyway. Got some more long 1/8 aluminum rivets today just for that.

I looked at laminate sheets today at Lowes. Theirs were around $50 a sheet.
I looked too at birch plywood and they have it for about $20 a sheet. I'm still leaning toward the birch. Definitely would have to have a moisture barrier between the wood and the insulation.

Some would say that the continuous aluminum sheets are needed for structural integrity. I don't buy that. I worked on framing crews for a number of years when I was younger.

We braced walls with one sheet of plywood on the corner or a cut in 1x4 in the wall. I can't see where plywood sheets riveted to the studs on the entire interior would be any appreciable structural disadvantage versus having aluminum sheets.
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:12 PM   #294
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Creeping along

A pretty satisfying day today. A little progress every day..

So I'm set with my outer belly pan sections. They are cut, bent, and ready to go, but I need to get the insulation in before I can rivet them on, so that is the project this weekend.

Went to Lowes and scoped out the insulation. I got a roll of R19 unfaced insulation for $15, a roll of 30 weight roofing felt ($15) and a gallon of roofing cement ($15). The felt and cement were to create moisture barriers.

First, in each compartment I sealed around the edges with roofing cement deter any moisture from getting in from the sides. Pic 1.

Then I put two lines of duct tape under the outriggers to hold up the insulation. Pic 2.

Cut the insulation pieces. Pic 3.
Put the insulation in place. Pic 4 and 5.
Cut pieces of roofing felt to create a water barrier. Put felt in place. Pic 6.

The insulation fit great. The width of the insulation was the same as the width of the outrigger compartments so all I had to do was cut lengths.
6 1/2" thick and 15" wide insulation.
The one roll (39'2") may be enough to do both sides. I may have to do something different on the front and back.

I also ordered a buck riveting kit from Vintage Trailer supply yesterday. I should be done with it in one weekend then I'll be looking to sell it.
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