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Old 03-23-2011, 08:20 PM   #267
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patience

I guess I'm tiring of dealing with the chassis/shell/axle business. I just want to be over and done with it so I'm looking for shortcuts. I just need to "cowboy up" and "get 'er done".

Update on the awesome bases. The ones that failed were holding a stretch of romex up to the ceiling almost half the width of the trailer with outlets on each end. Looks like too much weight. All of the others are holding well, even the ones holding the romex to the side of the shell.

Running an "electrical test"... half for a good reason, half for the fun of it. Hooked up all of the lights that I have to the interior circuits and turned them all on. Could definately hear the converter working, but no fuses blew . That has to be good.. right?
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Old 03-23-2011, 08:57 PM   #268
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Originally Posted by wasagachris View Post
Daniel nonsense. A used bucking gun can be had on e-bay for $50 or less and all you need is the smallest air compressor as the gun does not take much air at all. I have a large compressor and we could buck for over an hour before the compressor came on. You will need a few clecos which aren't much mooloa either. I get you some links if you like.

Hmmmmm, now I don't have this rivet gun (I have the standard 3/16" one from Harbor freight) But the specs on mine says I need to have 5.6 CFM @85 to 90 PSI which means that I would need a 3HP compressor (at least $250) .... am I missing something here or is that ebay rivet gun really that different??? The pancake compressor you provided a link for only does 0.6 CFM at 90 PSI. Is CFM not important? I have a 2 HP compressor and was thinking I had to upgrade.
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Old 03-23-2011, 11:08 PM   #269
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5.6 CFM would operate the tool continuously without any draw-down - you could call that 100% duty

The 0.6CFM unit will pressurize its holding tank and shut off but since its 11% the supply rate you could say seven seconds tool run time would require sixty seconds of compressor run time to make up the air usage and shut back off. That can get hard on compressors always running - not many are truly continuous duty.

I've used a small auxiliary tank near the work area to increase storage capacity available at the tool, on smaller compressors and small air hoses some air-wrench tools lose strength unless its at that 90psi exactly and that tank helps keep pressure up for the first few seconds run time. Not really important on riveters, vital on 1/2" drive air wrenches etc. etc..

The thing about air tools is the cheaper they are then the more air they use - the internal air motors get simplified to cut costs.
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Old 03-26-2011, 11:03 AM   #270
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Update on the awesome bases. Not awesome. They seem to do good as long as there is no "pull" on them. For the smaller wires they are doing fine. For the romex, not.

So I checked into the double sided automotive trim tape. At around $9 for 15 feet of the wide stuff. Too much for me.

Went back to Lowes and found these Romex holders. A bag of 100 costs around $4. Taking nails out and using screws (actually 1 screw is sufficient) into the wall and ceiling bows to hold up the Romex. Shouldn't need to use many.
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Old 03-26-2011, 12:05 PM   #271
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Don't forget to use SS screws, Daniel; those bows are AL.
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:13 PM   #272
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I'm not entirely onboard with the stainless steel thing.
From what I gather, there are two things we want to prevent:
1) rust
2) galvanic corrosion

Stainless steel is good for 1), but in contact with aluminum I think that it is bad for 2).
I'm getting that zinc plated or galvanized is better.

this is from the Corrosion Technology Labratory at NASA:
KSC Corrosion Technology Laboratory -- Galvanic Corrosion

It is recognizable by the presence of a buildup of corrosion at the joint between the dissimilar metals. For example, when aluminum alloys or magnesium alloys are in contact with steel (carbon steel or stainless steel), galvanic corrosion can occur and accelerate the corrosion of the aluminum or magnesium.

KSC conducts research on the effects of galvanic corrosion. The photo below shows the corrosion caused by a stainless steel screw causing galvanic corrosion of aluminum. The picture shows the corrosion resulting from only six months exposure at the Atmospheric Test Site.
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Old 03-26-2011, 03:21 PM   #273
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Just wanted to say thanks again for your experiance. Just watching you guys is helping me tremendously. I still have a long way to go on our 74 Tradewind, but this resource and helpfullness has boosted my confidence level considerably.
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Old 03-26-2011, 07:24 PM   #274
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The biggest thing that I'm learning is patience... just to try to concentrate on one thing at a time and not get in a hurry, just try to keep at it. There will be trial and error.. but I still want to rush too much a lot of times.
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:15 PM   #275
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Ditto on that!
At present, I am not planning on the full Monte, but that may change as I get deeper into it. I feel your pain on the wiring, I wired up a 20 X 40 shop with no prior experience. Thank God for a good friend who got me going in the right direction. I will have to disconnect all of my trailers wiring to get the interior skin out of the rear section. Plan on taking lots of pictures and probably will be asking quite a few questions.
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Old 03-26-2011, 08:39 PM   #276
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The 12V wiring seems like it has a thousand wires, but really it is only 4 (circuits)(not including the tow vehicle wiring). I think mine are brown, yellow, purple, and red.

The green from the tow vehicle runs all of the running lights, the blue from the tow vehicle makes a circuit that powers the stereo and the fans, the yellow from the tow vehicle is brakes and breakaway switch, and the rest from the tow vehicle run straight to the back lights.

Pretty much everything else runs off those 4 wires from the 12v distribution box except the air conditioner.
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:08 PM   #277
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Plenty of storm & screen door fasteners are aluminum - but there are long shaft aluminum pop-rivets that would work ideal on those nylon cable stays...
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Old 03-26-2011, 09:15 PM   #278
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Great idea! and I just happen to have some!
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Old 04-06-2011, 06:09 PM   #279
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More stuff

Moving on slowly..
My trailer had no underbelly when I bought it so I have do decide
1) Buy aluminum for an underbelly.
2) Salvage aluminum from the interior skin to fashion an underbelly.
I'm choosing 2).

First cut pieces to correct length and width.
Second, see about bending a curve on the edge.
Third, fit it and see if it looks like it will work.

Yes it looks like it will.
I'm going to go with it.
I'm thinking of painting the underbelly black. Maybe use some of that spray on underlining stuff.

I've been rattled by the window situation. One thing that I don't want to do is throw the windows back together and find out later that they leak. I've tried a few different things on the vista view glass windows and I've really taken a liking to butyl tape.
Def will add on some vulcum later, but one piece of butyl tape between the glass and window and more butyl tape stuffed around the inside edges held up great through the last two big rainstorms here.
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Old 04-06-2011, 07:07 PM   #280
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Daniel now you've got me really curious. If you are using your interior skins to fab up a belly pan, what the heck are you going to do for inetrior skins?
I'm a bit disappointed, youv'e done so well at the full monte so far with new frame, axles, floor, converter and wiring and now that it's coming to the parts that everyone one can see you seem to be cutting corners.
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