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Old 02-13-2011, 06:19 PM   #197
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I patched the shell over the old battery box - fabricated an extension and anchor for the rib left hanging - and have just kept going. Now I am wishing I had held out for obtaining 2024 sheet stock, I just used what was handy...
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Old 02-13-2011, 07:41 PM   #198
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Chris,

I was wondering about the battery cables. They need to be bigger in diameter because of the distance, right? Will the trailer draw more power (waste power) because of this?

I was thinking of nixing the battery under the sink and maybe putting two up front. The extra weight up front doesn't seem to be enough to make an issue.

Besides the that the batteries give off gas and what-not, the existing battery box only holds one battery and I'm def. leaning toward having at least 2.

The front seems the logical place to put them, but I'm not sure if there is enough room on top of the Aframe. I was thinking build a hangar box under the Aframe near the front of the shell might be the trick.

Solar seems almost a necessity if you plan on spending any time "off the reservation"
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Old 02-13-2011, 07:44 PM   #199
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I patched the shell over the old battery box - fabricated an extension and anchor for the rib left hanging - and have just kept going. Now I am wishing I had held out for obtaining 2024 sheet stock, I just used what was handy...
That is a neat job.
Did you ever think of making a cat door there? I have a small dog, but it seems a bit shallow of a hole even for him.
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Old 02-13-2011, 07:47 PM   #200
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Daniel,
You could use AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries. They are sealed and require no venting. They are about three times the price as a wet cell battery, but can be put anywhere in the trailer and are supposed to last twice as long. Just an option to consider.
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Old 02-13-2011, 07:53 PM   #201
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I had read about those and they seem like the battery to have. They last a long long time too I think that I read. You have to take good care of them as with any battery, I'm sure. I think that I put that comment about the gas from the batteries because I don't see how the original had the battery box vented.

I do think 2 batteries would be good too. One battery just doesn't seem like much.
With a solar panel and 2 batteries I should be able to live the life of Riley.
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Old 02-13-2011, 08:05 PM   #202
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I wanted to post this because I asked a question on another thread and I want to put the info here too.

I have a 12v distribution panel that looks like it is hooked up ok. The 4 wires coming out of it are the same color outputs shown in the service manual electrical diagram.

I asked about hooking a battery to the 12v distribution panel so that I could test the lights, etc.

The answer was no, for safety reasons and esp. because I have no fuses to put between the battery and the distribution panel.

Was told to hook a battery charger to the 12v distribution panel to test the circuits.

So that is what I did.
Hooked the neg to the bottom where the white wire is (I think this bar is a common ground point), and the pos to where the red wires are.

This worked, except the charger only puts out a max of 6 amps and I was turning too many lights on and it kept tripping the charger off.

Anyway, it was cool to see the lights come on.
A converter is definitely next on the list.
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Old 02-13-2011, 09:06 PM   #203
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Chris,

I was wondering about the battery cables. They need to be bigger in diameter because of the distance, right? Will the trailer draw more power (waste power) because of this?

I was thinking of nixing the battery under the sink and maybe putting two up front. The extra weight up front doesn't seem to be enough to make an issue.

Besides the that the batteries give off gas and what-not, the existing battery box only holds one battery and I'm def. leaning toward having at least 2.

The front seems the logical place to put them, but I'm not sure if there is enough room on top of the Aframe. I was thinking build a hangar box under the Aframe near the front of the shell might be the trick.

Solar seems almost a necessity if you plan on spending any time "off the reservation"
Daniel if you up size the battery cables you shoudn't experience any more voltage drop due to increased resistance in the wiring. You could also relocate the converter to under the front couch to shorten the cable run but that would require rewiring all the 12VDC feeds from it to all your lights etc. and rewire the 110VAC line that powers the converter.
I'm not sure hanging the batteries under the A frame is such a good idea.
The weight would be hanging from the frame and not resting on top of it plus they would be subject to any flying debris kicked up by the TV.
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Old 02-14-2011, 07:20 PM   #204
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The shell is sitting on the chassis but it isn't attached. The floors are only tacked down the middle so there is some attachin to do.

Tonight after work took the drill and some Vulcum and drilled holes through the c channel into the plywood floor around the perimeter. Squeezed Vulcum in the holes and poped the elevator bolts in. I'll attach when there is daylight, probably next weekend.

I went ahead and drilled most of the pilot holes for the self-taping screws for where the floor will be attached to outriggers. I should be able to get those in tomorrow afternoon.
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:57 PM   #205
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Daniel did you get yourself a buck riveting kit yet? You've got about 300 to 400 rivets to buck in to get the shell reattached to the C channel. Have you figured out who is going to rivet and who is going to buck between you and your son. It takes two to buck.
The self tapping screws also go into the crossmembers.I not sure why you need pilot holes they are self tapping screws. I also used them into the main frame rails. The only spot the mothership used elevator bolts was through the C channel into the end of the outriggers. Some people use them into the outriggers as well but they have to countersink the heads into the plywood so they don't stick up and affect the surface of the finished flooring.
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Old 02-15-2011, 09:31 PM   #206
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The pilot hole for the self taping screws is just through the plywood down to the metal, then I drill a small pilot hole through the metal to make it s little easier to get the self taping screw through. I did some earlier with a big screwdriver and even with the pilot hole I got a huge blister on the palm of my hand from putting pressure on the top of the screwdriver while turning it to get the self taping screw to bite.

The way that it is looking now is elevator bolts through the c channel into the plywood floor, then self taping screws through the c channel into the outriggers, then elevator bolts on the interior floor through the floor and the support strip underneath the floor.
I got one of the Forstner bits to countersink the elevator bolts.

The buck rivet thing I am totally ignorant about. I think that I have the basic idea. Getting my son to help me do work. That is priceless.
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Old 02-16-2011, 06:44 AM   #207
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The more that I think about it, the riveting of the shell is looking like it will be the last thing that is done to the trailer. I think that I just need to use some sort of tape or something to seal the lower area against water until I get to it.
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Old 02-16-2011, 07:15 AM   #208
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Daniel I would use elevator bolts through the C channel into the outriggers. That was the way the factory did it. You want that fastening point to be as secure as possible, it locks the shell to the frame.
Aluminium foil tape will seal that lower edge for now. If applied correctly, i.e. below the upper edge of the lower beltline you don't need to remove it later as it will be hidden. Foil tape is very thin so it won't interfere with the belly pan or beltline installation and it sticks like the dickens.
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Old 02-16-2011, 09:39 AM   #209
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I'd skip anything to do with aluminum tape for exterior use - it is pure unalloyed soft aluminum and does not take weathering (dew combined with heat cycles) well at all, and that is not considering acid rain or salt spray turning it into chalk...

I used it to make a drip edge skirt bridging from shell beyond the floor line when I took wraps off and the whole works had failed within six months, even the 'protected' areas... however the random 2-inch patches of still-stuck tape are almost impossible to get off. You'll be Joe Somewhen to another in the future for leaving that Easter Egg
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Old 02-16-2011, 08:27 PM   #210
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I'll have to figure something out this weekend when I finish securing the floor.

For now I'm working on tracing and mapping out wires. The schematic in the service manual isn't exactly accurate as to my tt layout, so this week in the evenings I'm sort of going over the wiring and tracing some things down and trying to identify everything that I can compared to the schematic.

I've pretty much decided to do the 120 wiring first. It will be much less complicated. I have a lot of reading to do..
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