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Old 09-15-2008, 09:36 PM   #1
1 Rivet Member
1991 34' Excella
1971 25' Tradewind
2005 22' Safari
Palmer Lake , Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 16
1992 34 foot winterizing

Hey guys. Just trying to figure out if you can actually drain the fresh water tank from under the trailer. Running the pump until it's dry seems to be a very inefficient way to get the water out of this tank. How do you do it?
Thanks, Joe

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Old 09-15-2008, 10:06 PM   #2
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1968 28' Ambassador
Cedaredge , Colorado
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 2,542
There should be a drain valve somewhere on the tank our in the water line...


May you have at least one sunny day, and a soft chair to sit in..

2008 5.7 L V8 Sequoia
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Old 09-15-2008, 10:23 PM   #3
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1992 34' Limited
Falls Church , Virginia
Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 945
Another '92 34'..... YEA!!!!

Joe -

Welcome to the 'big boys and their big toys' end of the AS spectrum. Congrats on a GREAT trailer! As you might surmise, I also have a '92 34' Classic Limited - and I LOVE my SilverToy!!!!

As to the winterizing question. There is a better way than what you proposed - just as another poster mentioned. In fact, there is a drain valve that is located in the curb side closet near the front. It drains behind the front wheel on that side. It is a doozy to get to, but will do the job quite well. In addition to opening that drain, I believe I remember a member from the ABQ area saying that he hooked his compressor to the fill spot and used that to drain the tank more completely than it might otherwise. He also used the electric jacks (or boards) to adjust the tilt on the trailer to assist the draining of the water.

***Can anyone else chime in if that sound right?!?!?

Anyhow, this is a great group of folks here, so fire away with any and all questions. The is ALWAYS someone that has done it before (right and WRONG) and is glad to share thier tips and suggestions.

Again, Welcome!!!

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Old 09-16-2008, 04:43 AM   #4
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Mohrsville , Pennsylvania
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There is a plastic valve / pet cock on the belly of the trialer on the curb side that will allows you to drain the potable water tank. It is a little diffcult to get to. I use a mechanic's creeper to get to mine. It is a lot easier than trying to contort myself around / between the tires to get to the valve.
Carl, Elaine & Finn The Beagle
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Old 09-16-2008, 06:24 AM   #5
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Tipton , Iowa
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As has been said, the drain petcocks are in the close under a panel in the 34'. Because of the length of the lines, I didn't use anti-freeze; I blew the lines out with compressed air. It works well, but if you do that rather than use antifreeze, remember the strainer near the pump. It needs to be disassembled and the water removed or it will freeze and break. I just used a paper towel to absorb the water out of it.

If you do use antifreeze, I caution you NOT to put any into the freshwater tank. While it won't hurt anything, it'll take forever to get the tank flushed in spring. Buy a bypass valve and install it if your trailer doesn't have one and pump your antifreeze in from there.

Don't worry about whether or not your freshwater tank is dry. It really doesn't matter, as a small amount of water lying on the bottom will freeze but won't hurt anything. Water expands as it freezes, and when it is confined as it freezes is when pipes burst. A little water lying on the bottom of the tank won't cause any problem at all. I usually leave my drain petcocks open all winter.

AIR 2053 Current: 2006 Born Free 32 RQ Kodiak Chassis, & 1995 Coachmen B-van
Former Airstreams: 1953 Flying Cloud, 1957 Overlander, 1961 Bambi, 1970 Safari Special, 1978 Argosy Minuet, 1985 325 Moho, 1994 Limited 34' Two-door, 1994 B190 "B-Van"
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Old 09-16-2008, 10:16 AM   #6
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1992 34' Limited
Grand Island , Nebraska
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 248
The petcock to drain the fresh water tank is located just behind the curbside center wheel. Mine is not hard to get to but I cringe every time I twist it because I don't trust the sixteen-year-old plastic.

When winterizing pay attention to the city water inlet/pressure control at the street-side rear. Be sure to open the drain (mine is in the bedside cabinet). When it isn't drained well it can freeze and crack the plastic housing. I've replaced mine once and need to do it again when I get around to it. Both were caused by my carelessness. Actually, it would be a good idea to buy one of those Schraeder valve/garden hose fittings and blow out that city water inlet. Those fittings are easily available. I have one but unitl I actually use it it doesn't do much good!

'92 Limited 34ft (now sold); '96 Dodge Cummins 4X2, 5speed
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Old 09-16-2008, 11:13 AM   #7
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1998 28' Excella
Dolores , Colorado
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 324
When we went from our 71 A/S to our 98 A/S I had to learn how to winterize all over again. The water pump is actually used to drain the fresh water tanks and it doesn't take long at all. The only problem I have had is not disconnecting the copper tubing under the sink and letting it drain by gravity. I had to replace it last year because it burst. Didn't do any damage to anything because there wasn't enough water in it to do any damage. I use the water pump to suck the antifreeze into the pipes and it works pretty slick.


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Old 09-18-2008, 04:09 PM   #8
1 Rivet Member
1991 34' Excella
1971 25' Tradewind
2005 22' Safari
Palmer Lake , Colorado
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 16
Thanks to all

Yes, this is a new toy for me and I'm very excited. Thanks for all the very helpful ideas on getting winterized. After I get it all wintereized I'm going to take it up to Tiger Run in Breckenridge for the winter. We won't be needing water as we'll use the clubhouse, but there will be many questions in the future and I thank you in advance for your wisdom.

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