Leak at check valve or water pump.

[montanablue]

Has anybody else had a leak at their pump and check valve connections? On our last trip we came back to camper to find wet carpet surrounding the area to pump. We ripped up carpet and padding to let it dry but I have gotten started on repairing it. Any suggestion on where to start. Should I put pressure hose to line and look for leak? Might be check valve?

I have a 97 Safari.
Thanks any help.
Rick

[TG Twinkie]

Not sure what you are describing as a "check valve".
Most pumps have internal check valves.
The device on the left side of the pump looks like an inline strainer.
Perhaps the screw on cap has worked loose.

[montanablue]

Thanks for identifying the strainer if that is what it is. I just figured it was a check valve.

My question would be do these leak? I will disconnect, clean and reconnect to see if that was issue. Second question would be be to put air pressure in line and dab soapy water to look for leak.

Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Rick

[sandlapper]

Rick, I have replaced several pumps over the years, they tend to develop leaks. If yours is the original it could have given up. As suggested check the fittings around the pump, they can loosen from vibrating during use and bouncing down the road. Good news is they are not terribly expensive, is an easy change out, and can be purchased most any RV/marine store.

Put pressure to it with water and look for the source. Good luck.

John

[montanablue]

Thanks John I will look at fittings and clean the strainer too. Looking for forward to fall gathering.

[TG Twinkie]

The strainer is on the suction side of the pump. You will not be able to pressurize it with the pump.

[PatLee]

If your water pump is close to where your city water outlet is, be sure and check / tighten those fittings as well.

[cwf]

Where is pump wet? Has this pump ever frozen? I replaced ours with a REBEL pump!!! We my goodness!! This is a proper pump!

I found some loose PEX fittings and replaced them. Some piping had to be moved... 30 minutes...

I am running a better power supply wire and switches when we get home.

[montanablue]

Well I finally got the time to remove the pump with strainer. Detached the strainer and see there is a small cracked part off of the strainerwhich is used to lock it down. It did feel firm when taking strainer apart. Strainer was not clogged.

So my first step is to replace strainer with new, but I see that thus model #170 Is no longer available unless somebody can point me to one. I found this one on EBay. Can some tell me if this one is a mtch replacement?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F291427376378


Thanks everybody.
Rick

[TG Twinkie]

Looks like it will work.
While you have it apart.
I would get rid of the hard piping in and out of the pump. Use something flexible

Makes for a somewhat quieter pump.
More importantly it reduces the stress on all parts involved.

[montanablue]

Thanks for the suggestion but I am not sure what you are referring to as hard piping. It has pex in and out. Please expand.
Thanks, Rick

[cwf]

the strainer is on the 'suction' side of the pump... it can leak.... so, if strainer was cracked, I think the pump body might be compromised... especially if the water leaks when pressure is in the system.

Also... there is water pressure at the pump when City water is providing pressure... so you are aware... you can't really test the system for leak repair without having pump connected from the water system.

[rmkrum]

Originally Posted by montanablue

Thanks for the suggestion but I am not sure what you are referring to as hard piping. It has pex in and out. Please expand.
Thanks, Rick

PEX is not as stiff as copper for example, but it is stiff enough to transmit vibration. Camco makes a set of flex pipes that are reinforced tubing that flexes easily. That will reduce transmitted noise.

[montanablue]

I bought a new strainer today. Went to I stall it and found the Pex 90 degree elbow may be damaged. It looks like you can see some portions of the connector which fits inside is jagged. I am wondering if is something I should change out as well. Opinions? Also, any reason to use to use tehplon tape when re-connecting pump, strainer and Pex lines?

Thanks

[sandlapper]

Rick, the connector looks fine to me. Maybe a bit of residue in there but otherwise OK.

I use both Teflon and plumbers dope on all screw- on connections. Water is thin and can be difficult to manage sometimes, especially under pressure. Hand tighten the fitting, no pliers.

[Fred L]

Recently replaced my shurflow water pump since I believe the check valve was leaking and the pump once turned on would never shut off. I did the entire check of the plumbing and found no leaks.

When replacing it, the shurflow replacement (revolution?) was not an exact replacement and it looked as if some work was needed on moving pex connectors. I then recalled that I also had ordered the silencing flexible pipe attachments and not only do they quiet the pump lines vibration, they are fanstastic to ensure a flexible connection, even allowing me to move the pump to a more accessible location.

The biggest challenge was getting the screws off the back/blind side. In the 23D, you really cant get much leverage and ended up stripping one of the philips heads. Luckily while trying to see if i could get a hacksaw blade under it to cut the screw, I noticed that the pump was secured with rubber grommets/anti vibration feet. A simple lift of the pump freed it from the screw and with a channel lock, I backed it out. Works great now.

[montanablue]

Thanks all for suggestions. I plan to go forward with rehooking lines and making a test.