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Old 10-01-2011, 06:33 PM   #1
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Leveling and "Wobbling" - 2002 Classic

My 2002 Classic 30 SO seems to be a bear to level. I know when we are on a gravel pad the coach will settle some but it seems I'm doing if every four or five days if I'm staying for an extended period. I usually level on the front frame between the actual coach and propane tanks but everything seems to revolve around how easily the door closes. I was told the stabilizer bars can be used for minor leveling adjustments but I am literally at wits end trying to get it right. I notice it wobbles a bit and it is most noticable from the bedroom; if my wife is laying on the bed and I'm moving around out front, she complains of the wobbling. Any suggestions?
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Old 10-01-2011, 07:09 PM   #2
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Two things - 1) are you using any wood or plastic pads under the stabilizer arms when they are down? This will help to prevent them from digging in or making the soil or gravel loose under them - spreads the load. 2) Do you use any wheel chocks in front or back of the wheels? Pound them in with a mallet. Better yet, get the kind that spread and lock between the tires - those are what I have and often all I use when camping for just one night. I don't even put down the "leveling jacks". I have quotes because that is the common name but not what they are for. You should not use them under any real load situation.
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Old 10-01-2011, 07:14 PM   #3
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Better yet, get the kind that spread and lock between the tires - those are what I have and often all I use when camping for just one night.
Completely agree here. However, I've wondered if the X-chocks are harmful to tires with extended stay use?

-Chris
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Old 10-01-2011, 07:28 PM   #4
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Good question Chris, about the X-chocks. We just got them, to further stabilize the trailer and provide a level of security when padlocked.

Could they damage the tires any differently than the part of the tire resting on the ground and supporting its share of the trailer weight?

doug k
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Old 10-01-2011, 08:26 PM   #5
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Completely agree here. However, I've wondered if the X-chocks are harmful to tires with extended stay use?

-Chris

I hope not Chris - I use mine while in storage at home. I agree on the thought that they sit on the ground for extended periods in the same place. I do try to take the AS on a drive to work every 6 months to "warm up" the tires but it's on 25 miles each way.


I need to camp more!!!!
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Old 10-02-2011, 06:12 AM   #6
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Thanks Gents...

Thanks for the reply... I think I'm doing two things wrong here. First of all, the jacks are electric which allows you to go beyond just resting them on the plastic pads (I use those orange things). I think I'm just going to lowering them to the point where they are just resting; you can see the coach lift slightly if you lower them too much. Secondly, I am going to invest in one of those between the tire chocks, vice the wedges. I have heard they are the most effective and provide an added level of security. Again, thank you for the post!
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Old 10-02-2011, 06:15 AM   #7
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Never owned a trailer with a slide out, but gotta think that plays in to some stability problems while parked. Thats a fair amount of weight cantalevered out there.
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:02 AM   #8
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Originally Posted by jsamuel8 View Post
I usually level on the front frame between the actual coach and propane tanks but everything seems to revolve around how easily the door closes.
The coach should be leveled to the refrigerator, but this is more critical on vintage units. Once you do that you can more permanently mount a bubble level on the tounge. I also have a larger side to side level on the front of the coach I can see from the tow vehicle.
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:03 AM   #9
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We have the same trlr, even the same year!! It is sometimes tricky to get the stabilizers just right so the door closes easily. Level before the slide is out and make sure the plastic pads used for stabilizer jack support aren't hollow on the bottom or are embedded to avoid further sinking. This usually works for me. We have the "between the tire" wheel chocks that are aluminum and have an over-center cam action to hold in place - a padlock will fit on them for more security. The chocks came from Perfection Moulders of Goodlettsville, TN. Last time I looked they didn't picture them on their website. There were 3 sizes depending on the spacing between tires. There is a hex nut for individual adjustment. A little pricey, as I recall, but not out of line to protect your trlr. Good luck!!
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:11 AM   #10
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Just looked at the next post in the portal and a picture of the chocks like we have are there!! The post is "Who uses tandem wheel chocks" by Splitrock. The pic is in #24 by bmklawt.
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Old 10-02-2011, 09:36 AM   #11
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We camp in sandy soil a lot, this is how I have to set the trailer wheels. Don't have a pic of the stab's, but a 12"x12"X1/2" piece of P-wood keeps them from settling too much. It still may require adjustment, especially after a rain.

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Old 10-02-2011, 10:15 AM   #12
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I caught something in the original post that worries me..

You use the word, leveling jacks. Those things under your trailer are not to be used to level the trailer. They are stabilizer jacks. Lifting your trailer with stabilizer jacks is a sure fire way to twist your frame. The proper procedure is to pull into the space and use leveling boards to get it correct side to side. You then use the X chocks to lock your tires and then unhook. Next using the tongue jack you level front to back. THEN, you use the stabilizer jacks to, well stabilize it from wobbling. The only place you should ever lift your trailer is just behind the wheels, on the frame, where it says jack point. Do not lift on the axle, do not lift just forward of the wheels, and NEVER lift with the stabilizer jacks!
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Old 10-02-2011, 11:58 AM   #13
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You don't want to lift the whole weight trailer with the stabilizers, but they aren't going to stabilize anything without a bit of load on them. On hand-crank models, you can snug them into the ground as it's hard to actually lift the trailer without cranking like an ape (if you are using the wee crank that comes with the trailer). On electrics, it's like your front jack... once you hear it start to load, just give it a bit more. It might lift a bit, but that is just the suspension unloading... which again, if you are still letting 100% of the weight rest on the axle suspension, you're going to get wobbling.

If you are using a drill to spin the levelling jacks, don't overdue it... some fairly cheap cordless drills can out out a lot of torque..
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Old 10-02-2011, 02:04 PM   #14
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roto chocks

My 34' Limited had the wobbles even after getting it level, and I read on a thread about how roto chocks helped with the stability. I found them on the web and I called and spoke to the nicest lady, and she asked me to measure the distance between the tires.

I got two roto chocks and I absolutely love them. They took the wobble out of the equation. Once I have leveled the trailer I put them in between the aft axle and the middle axel on each side. I use a padlock to slow down any would be thief. As they are made of a hardened rubber like material they go easy on the tires. My rule is first on last off...

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Old 10-02-2011, 02:38 PM   #15
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I got two roto chocks and I absolutely love them. They took the wobble out of the equation. Once I have leveled the trailer I put them in between the aft axle and the middle axel on each side. I use a padlock to slow down any would be thief. As they are made of a hardened rubber like material they go easy on the tires. My rule is first on last off...

Regards,

Reganzo
Rotochoks essentially lock out your suspension travel by making the axles work against each other.
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Old 10-02-2011, 06:30 PM   #16
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Leveling and Wobbling

Again, thanks for all the posts and please understand, I don't use the jacks to level the coach. As Friday suggests, once they get a bit of a load on them, I give it one bit more. My pads are relatively hollow; going to check the webside Farmer Dan recommends and have ordered the X-chocks. I think I'll be squared away; again, thanks for all the posts!
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:33 PM   #17
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Just checked the Perfection Moulders website - there is no mention of wheel chocks. This was the case when ordering mine several years ago. Know the distance between tires at closest point and they can tell you the right size for application. Phone # is 615 859 1674. As mentioned in another post, there were similar chocks in the Airstream classifieds. I looked tonight and found none. A search of the AS site may turn up the provider of them.
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Old 10-02-2011, 07:39 PM   #18
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Camping World online has a good sale on... 2 X-chocks for $80... the only option for me as I'm far away from retail RV stores. Goes from 1 3/8" to 10"... comes with a little ratchet wrench as well... lockable... Might have to get some for myself.
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Old 10-02-2011, 08:00 PM   #19
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I have been very happy with my Roto Chocks. Easy to use and seem to make the trailer more stable.
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Old 10-02-2011, 10:02 PM   #20
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We also have a slideout. I bought one of those levels that mount just under the front window and above the tanks so you can see it while your backing up. I just back up until the ball is right in the center (may have to block one side of the wheels to achieve this) and lock the wheels together in place with the Xlocks. I lift off the hitch and pull the truck out. Lower the tongue to where it shows level. Lower my stabilizers onto the orange pads to where you just start hearing the motor begin to work abit. Then out with the slide and its a 9000 lb aluminum paper weight. No movement detectable. If you want to get really tricky you can now spend the time to adjust the entry door so it opens and closes perfectly every time the trailer is level.

Cheers.. Vinnie
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