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Old 04-10-2017, 09:56 PM   #1
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Drag wheels on rear frame

Any one install drag wheels on their trailer to prevent rubbing?Click image for larger version

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Thinking about welding these on. Mostly it's because of my own driveway but I could see it's uses in other places.
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Old 04-10-2017, 10:06 PM   #2
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General advice is not to do it. The reduction of clearance, forces the frame up and potentially will damage the aluminum shell. Best approach is to not drag. Pat
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Old 04-11-2017, 04:38 AM   #3
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Problem is that wheel could catch on something and get tore off.
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Old 04-11-2017, 07:17 AM   #4
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Seems to me I have read that AS advise against this.

Apart from what other reasons there may be not to go this route, I would be concerned that having these wheels in place might encourage me to be less worried about dragging the trailer than I currently am, and not trying so hard to avoid such situations, (not going int gas stations with steep drives, driving on a diagonal when I have no choice etc,) thereby being more likely to cause structural damage to the trailer.
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Old 04-11-2017, 07:28 AM   #5
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Next time you are in a campground look at the SOBs. Almost all of them come with silly V shaped drags and almost all of them have been ripped off.

I am supersized that your picture does not show the skid rail at the rear of the frame that I thought was common to all Airstreams. If your driveway is a problem you might consider welding a shoe on the frame that will only reduce the clearance by 1/4 in. Just make sure to turn the edges of the shoe upwards so it does not have a tendency to dig in.

My 34 routinely drags on an off every Canadian ferry I have ever used. Just have to take it slow.
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Old 04-11-2017, 07:45 AM   #6
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Not a good idea to install rollers or any kind of skid device on rear of frame , as stated you can do a so called canning of aluminum on rear corners or damage to frame. I no first hand in can happen as I drug right rear corner several yrs. ago at gas station did a little damage above rub rail no damage to frame, could have been a lot worse. My rec. don't do it and be careful and avoid steep entry ways.
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Old 04-11-2017, 07:57 AM   #7
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My 05 Safari has factory skid plates at the rear. They are superficial in the sense that they are made with thin gauge metal and would bend before the frame would. I would not install anything beefy back there though.
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Old 04-11-2017, 09:19 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PKI View Post
General advice is not to do it. The reduction of clearance, forces the frame up and potentially will damage the aluminum shell. Best approach is to not drag. Pat
Good advice. When we were looking to buy our trailer, I had spoken to a dealer about just this type of roller installation. He told me never to install them.
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Old 04-11-2017, 09:32 AM   #9
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I installed a set on a 40' foot Alfa toy hauler, worked very well. Stock was the V skids, made sure that the roller was mounted at the same hight as the bottom of the V. No extra length, stock clearance, not like the pix on post 1.
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Old 04-11-2017, 04:12 PM   #10
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Yes, I did...

Installed the same setup. However, you need to add a tube brace BETWEEN each roller wheel. This will help keep them from bending left or right from torque force. The will need serious welding!

Best advice is to NEVER attempt a deep exit or entry angle!
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Old 04-11-2017, 04:15 PM   #11
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Drag rollers on rear of Airstream

I took an out of the box approach to this problem. When I pulled my Airstream Classic 30 into my driveway it dragged and slightly bent one of the steel drags. To prevent it from happening again I bought a aluminum drop hitch. I stop at a level spot a short distance from my place and swap out the hitch lowering the front of the trailer a couple of inches. This in turn raises the rear end providing more rear ground clearance . The trailer is not being towed level but it is only for less than a few hundred feet so no harm done.
I can pull into the drive without scraping . I use the drop hitch to leave as well then swap it out for the Equalizer hitch when I am safely out and parked on a level spot.
Yes, it takes a bit of time to accomplish the hitch swap but the piece of mind of not damaging a $125,000 trailer is well worth it to me. I am sure folks will say I am foolish to waste time and effort swapping hitches but I have the time. Not a solution for everyone but it works for me. Just thought I would share.
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Old 04-11-2017, 04:16 PM   #12
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I carry a few pieces of 2 x 6 plank - almost always solves the problem and there is less chance of damage.
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Old 04-11-2017, 06:18 PM   #13
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I have the same problem in my driveway and I had Airstream NW put drag wheels on the trailer. They are red composition material. I also don't put the spring bars on my Blue Ox hitch until after the driveway so the hitch is lower and back is higher. I also go slow at the transition. I've taken it in and out 20 or 30 times with no damage to the trailer.
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Old 04-11-2017, 06:49 PM   #14
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You can also buy a 3" lift kit and have that installed along with going up in wheel and tire size.
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Old 04-11-2017, 07:15 PM   #15
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No problem. I put them on my 30' Classic. they don't hang down. I cut as notch in the skid plate and the bottom of the wheel is only 1/2 inch lower than the skid plate. If you are handy with a welder go for it. You won't be sorry.
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Old 04-11-2017, 07:40 PM   #16
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If there is enough stress from dragging the rear end of an AS airstream, whether on a roller or on the skid plate, it will wrinkle the aluminum trailer skin. And, possibly it could bend the frame upward. My 34' has the wrinkles to prove it. (done by the PO)

The best advice is to avoid dragging the rear.
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Old 04-11-2017, 09:10 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sixgillshark View Post
Any one install drag wheels on their trailer to prevent rubbing?Attachment 283143
Thinking about welding these on. Mostly it's because of my own driveway but I could see it's uses in other places.
Call the factory boys, they do not recommend it....I installed the dexter lift kit on my 31'. Classic...3" higher....1st trip billings to pismo beach, I like it, no worries of dragging anymore,
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Old 04-11-2017, 09:38 PM   #18
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My grand parents had a 68 Overlander back in the 70s that had drag wheels which (I believe) at the time were offered by the factory as an accessory. They were easy bolt on deals.
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Old 04-12-2017, 04:53 AM   #19
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I wonder why you can jack the trailer up on the rear jack point and it doesn't wrinkle the skin but a roller on the same frame member does wrinkle it?? I can say that at least on the 30' International wrinkling just doesn't happen!
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Old 04-12-2017, 07:34 PM   #20
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I wonder why you can jack the trailer up on the rear jack point and it doesn't wrinkle the skin but a roller on the same frame member does wrinkle it?? I can say that at least on the 30' International wrinkling just doesn't happen!
Very good question. Where is the jacking point? The stabilizer, which is a scissor type mechanism that looks like a jack, is not a jack. It is near the rear of the coach, but you are not supposed to use it to lift the coach. There is a rear jacking point on the belly pan, but it is supposed to be located much closer to the axles. If it is not located there on your coach, please show us a picture. We may learn something and that is a service to all. Pat
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