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Old 06-25-2006, 10:39 AM   #113
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By the way

A while back, I tried without any takers to give away the almost-new foam cushions that came out of my International 22 when I modified the dinette into a couch. That foam came in handy to give some depth and softness to the plywood shapes that I installed on my cabinets. I simply set the fence of my bandsaw at about 3/8" and ran a foam cushion through. I then used 3M spray adhesive to adhere the foam to the plywood shapes before covering them with fabric matching the valance .
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Old 07-05-2006, 01:48 PM   #114
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Next projects

First will be an overlay for the folding table. We leave it up all the time and the sharp edges are constantly digging into my legs as I watch TV. I considered routing the edge and inlaying a plastic strip, but instead I will make a lift-off top of oak plywood with oak molding all around that has softly rounded edges. In the very rare occasion that we fold the table to use the couch as a bed, the topper will simply be lifted off and stowed elsewhere. The overlay will effectively enlarge the table top slightly for better dining and real oak with oak edging should look better than the currrent artificial wood table top.

Second will be a wine rack to go permanently on top of the microwave cabinet. Not designed yet, but it will probably hold 3 wine bottles which will get us through the happy hours at most rallies.
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Old 07-10-2006, 10:54 AM   #115
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Table Overlay

The table overlay is built and is in the process of getting multiple coats of polyurethane. The top is metric oak plywood, a bit thicker than 3/16". The sides are 3/4" oak rabbited to accept the top. The sides form a 1/8" rim all around and are radiused with the router to nice rounded profiles in contrast to the sharp edges on the folding table. The new top will be padded with felt to prevent scarring the old table.

The new top is effectively 1 3/4" wider than the folding table and 1 1/2" longer so that it should be a bit better for serving meals for two.

An oak strip fits into the gap between the table top and the credenza to keep the new top in place. I found some neat spring-loaded window sash locks to clamp the new top down. When we need the extended table or when we need the sofa bed, the new top can be easily removed and stowed elsewhere.
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Old 07-11-2006, 11:38 AM   #116
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First fitting

The table topper now has 3 coats of the wipe-on polyurethane and the felt is glued on underneath to protect the folding table top. This morning, I took it out to the storage yard for a first fitting. I did have about 1/8" of interference at one point, so I brought it home for a few coats of brushed on polyurethane and some final tuning.

The real wood table top really adds to the feeling of quality when compared to the obvious laminate that it covers. I never liked the appearance of the faux-oak laminate and I hated the sharp edges of the table.
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Old 07-27-2006, 02:10 PM   #117
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Quality Problem

I have been extremely fortunate to have almost no quality problems on my Classic 28, but one bit me today. I pulled out the large drawer under the refrigerator and it fell on my foot. Ouch!

I found that the drawer slides were attached to a wood frame that was not attached to the floor. The only thing holding the frame in place was one screw on the drawer slides that went into the oak face frame. No other fasteners could be found. Apparently, up until now, the front of the frame had been wedged in place just securely enough to support the lightly loaded drawer. I couldn't find a staple or screw anywhere.

I'm in a state park, but I always carry a tool bag and a variety of parts. I had 4 brass angle brackets and plenty of screws so I laid on my stomach and did a one-arm install. The worst problem was getting the cat out of her newly discovered cave so that I could reinstall the drawer.

I don't know whether other Classics have this problem, but with the leverage of a loaded drawer, it is obvious that the assembly will sooner or later fail.
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Old 07-30-2006, 10:56 AM   #118
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Soap dispenser

The current Classics have pump soap dispensers in the galley and bathroom. I ran across a sale at Lowe's and bought a stainless pump dispenser for about $13 and installed it this morning.

After deciding on the location so that the washer on the bottom would just clear the sink flange, I drilled a 1/4" pilot hole and opened it up with a 1 1/8" spade bit. I used a brand new, sharp spade bit so that it would cut a nice clean hole in the Corean counter top. It requires a right-angle adapter for the drill to fit under the upper cabinet; fortunately, I own one.

There were a million paper-thin Corean chips flying around, so I used the hand vacuum about every 1/8" of drilling to vacuum all around. When I finished, it only required a few swipes of a wet paper towel in places that the vacuum could not reach such as behind the faucets.

I set the pump in plumber's putty per instructions and filled the bottle from the plastic pump bottle that we kept wedged behind the faucets. I also removed the unused soap dish from the wall. That's two fewer pieces of clutter in the bathroom.

I installed a similar pump in my Scamp years ago and the weight of the full bottle finally fractured the threads on that plastic bottle. The bottle gets pretty heavy when full and the threads were obviously not designed to cope with the shocks that occur in a trailer. I'll make up a little padded wood shelf this week and screw it to the wall behind the bottle so that it supports the weight of the loaded bottle and takes the strain off of the threads.

I think I will install a similar pump at the galley sink to contain dish soap.

Here are 3 photos showing stages of the installation.
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Old 07-30-2006, 10:50 PM   #119
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska
The current Classics have pump soap dispensers in the galley and bathroom. I ran across a sale at Lowe's and bought a stainless pump dispenser for about $13 and installed it this morning.

After deciding on the location so that the washer on the bottom would just clear the sink flange, I drilled a 1/4" pilot hole and opened it up with a 1 1/8" spade bit. I used a brand new, sharp spade bit so that it would cut a nice clean hole in the Corean counter top. It requires a right-angle adapter for the drill to fit under the upper cabinet; fortunately, I own one.

There were a million paper-thin Corean chips flying around, so I used the hand vacuum about every 1/8" of drilling to vacuum all around. When I finished, it only required a few swipes of a wet paper towel in places that the vacuum could not reach such as behind the faucets.

I set the pump in plumber's putty per instructions and filled the bottle from the plastic pump bottle that we kept wedged behind the faucets. I also removed the unused soap dish from the wall. That's two fewer pieces of clutter in the bathroom.

I installed a similar pump in my Scamp years ago and the weight of the full bottle finally fractured the threads on that plastic bottle. The bottle gets pretty heavy when full and the threads were obviously not designed to cope with the shocks that occur in a trailer. I'll make up a little padded wood shelf this week and screw it to the wall behind the bottle so that it supports the weight of the loaded bottle and takes the strain off of the threads.

I think I will install a similar pump at the galley sink to contain dish soap.

Here are 3 photos showing stages of the installation.
We did this exact upgrade to our Airstream (both galley and bathroom) two years ago and it worked out fantastic! BUT, if you live in the northern parts of the country (and all of Canada) be sure to empty these dispensers out when you store your Airstream for the winter. We forgot one year and had a bit of a mess to clean up. In the galley the dish washing liquid was pushed out all over the counter. must have been caused by the freezing temps.
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Old 08-02-2006, 04:41 PM   #120
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Did the galley sink, also

Picked up another soap pump at Lowe's this morning and installed it this afternoon behind the galley sink and adjacent to the spray nozzle. Looks great; the 2007s have nothing on me!
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Old 08-03-2006, 10:26 PM   #121
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Did you try this?

John, I have been following your posts closely and have begun making mods to my Safari by using some of your good ideas and adding a couple of my own. Now, I am stuck and need some help. The area under the fridge is ripe for conversion to a drawer. About 5 inches tall and the full width of the fridge. Problem is I don't know how this panel is attached to the side walls. I suspect it is pin nailed and may have some fasteners along the top as well. Really don't want to remove the fridge to investige further so I'm looking for someone that has done this or a suggestion on how to make a very neat cut so I can extricate the panel.

Any help appreciated......

Greg
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Old 08-03-2006, 10:47 PM   #122
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptrvr
The area under the fridge is ripe for conversion to a drawer. About 5 inches tall and the full width of the fridge. Problem is I don't know how this panel is attached to the side walls. I suspect it is pin nailed and may have some fasteners along the top as well. Really don't want to remove the fridge to investige further so I'm looking for someone that has done this or a suggestion on how to make a very neat cut so I can extricate the panel.

Any help appreciated......

Greg
Not having a Safari, I don't know how the panel is attached. I did have one false drawer front in the Classic that was attached with blocks and staples. The blocks were stapled to the false front and to the face frame of the cabinet. I managed to remove the false front with a dead blow hammer by removing the drawer above and reaching in therough the opening. I then used a big screwdriver as a pry bar to remove the blocks.

Beware, though, there may be a bunch of wiring in the space under the refrigerator that may limit the size of the drawer. I do have a drawer under mine, but my refrigerator sits a lot higher.

I doubt that removing the refrigerator is going to reveal anything because there is a pretty stout floor under the refrigerator. Making a neat cut will be very difficult with the front in place.
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Old 08-03-2006, 11:03 PM   #123
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I appreciate your thoughts. The panel is not attached to the floor so I have been able to pass a thin metal rule underneath from side to side and pretty deep, without finding any obstructions. I have considered fastening my Dremel to a proper height block and using a spiral bit to make the cut. Crude but best I can come up with. The problem is the cut will directly follow the lay of the floor and floors are never perfectly level. Not sure how a spiral bit will react to small gauge nails either. Maybe I'll get some more comments over the weekend.

Greg
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Old 08-06-2006, 11:36 AM   #124
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Galley Soap Dispenser Installation

Because of the way the sink is shaped and the obstructions of the sink clamps and wood blocks supporting the Corean, I had a very limited area in which to place the soap pump so that the nozzle would properly squirt down into the sink. I finally came up with this position, right next to the spray hose. The nozzle just spans the flat area at the corner of the sink.

OTOH, the bottle is close to both the pantry wall and the inner shell so that I can easily install a padded support shelf to insure that the bottle doesn't unscrew or strip the threads.
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Old 08-11-2006, 02:06 PM   #125
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Finished installing the soap dispensers

As a result of the threads on the plastic bottle failing on my former Scamp, I decided to put in supports for the bottles in the Classic. Since the bottles are over the "dead" area where the piping runs at the back of the cabinets, there is virtually no loss of storage space. We usually keep a spare roll or two of paper towels in that space, and it turned out that the paper towels still fit in nicely behind the props.

I didn't make the props fancy. They are 1 1/2" wide poplar with 3/8" of foam and some scrap fabric on top so that there are no wear points against the plastic bottles. The props are screwed to the adjacent wall with sheet rock screws. I find that sheet rock screws are great in confined spaces because they are very sharp and take very little pressure to start.
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Old 09-27-2006, 03:26 PM   #126
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Back at changing things again

My wife complained that the bathroom was too boring and colorless. She hated the border behind the sink and the border had started to peel off.

I bought a colorful border with a Paris street scene motif and installed it this morning.

The old border had a sticky backing and came off in pieces. A wet sponge and a scraper was needed to finish the messy removal. The new border is pasted and is waterproof. The border on the side wall covers the scar where the soap dish was removed when I installed the soap pump.

The photos don't do justice to the new border. The change has made the bathroom a lot more cheerful.
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