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Old 01-02-2006, 04:05 PM   #57
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Dual Battery Switches

It is good to be able to use the batteries one at a time when boondocking. That way, you know when half the reserve is gone and something accidentally turned on is less likely to leave both batteries flat. I now have a master battery switch and a separate switch for each battery. I made a similar change on my Classic 25, but I did it a bit differently this time.

I had the original switch from the 25 and decided to use athat switch and the OEM switch from the 28 for the individual battery switches. I bought a third switch in a local marine department for the master switch.

There is plenty of room on the panel for all 3 switches. I installed the new switch near the top and transferred the wires from the old switch to it. This is the master switch.

Below that, I installed the two OEM switches side by side. I cut off the small ring terminals from the red wires from the batteries and swaged new 3/8" ring terminals on to attach to the switches. I also made up two pieces of #6 cable with 3/8" rings on one end and 1/4" rings on the other to go from the switches to the circuit breakers where the battery wires originally attached.

The photos show the front and rear of the completed panel. There is plenty of room for everything. All that remains is to make and install labels for the switches. I can now leave my refrigerator on in storage without worry about cooking my batteries dry.
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Old 01-02-2006, 04:18 PM   #58
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No more TV table

I took out the folding TV table on the bedroom wall. That is one "omit" I would specify on a factory build, but I bought off the lot and there it was. A useless elbow-knocker.

I needed to cover up some ugly screw holes. I noticed that the Limiteds had a nice "chair-rail" type molding on that partition. I worked over a piece if 1/2" x 1 1/2" oak with my router, a little varnish, a few zaps with the nail gun,, and, voila, no more visible holes.

I'm out of projects for the time being, but I'm taking the trailer out day after tomorrow (1/4) for a few daysand I'm sure that I can come up with something else to change.
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Old 01-02-2006, 05:37 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska

I'm out of projects for the time being, but I'm taking the trailer out day after tomorrow (1/4) for a few daysand I'm sure that I can come up with something else to change.
now it is time to install the automatic peanut butter spreader.....
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Old 01-11-2006, 09:42 AM   #60
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Not an automatic peanut butter spreader, but ...

I just couldn't ignore this neat light in a local marine department. I thought it might be great to minimize battery draw while boondocking at music festivals.

The LED module is fully encapsulated and it would be perfect for a wet bath or a shower light in a vintage.

I installed it on the double bottom of the cabinet over the sink. I drilled a nice big hole above the flourescent to make the hookups (photo 1) and a smaller hole over the new fixture. It was easy to fish the wires through the double cabinet bottom.

The second photo shows the finished installation. It looks great. I haven't tried it at night yet, but with the blinds drawn, it seems to light the sink area nicely. It should be a good light to leave on while watching TV since the light is directed downward and not in the viewer's eyes.
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Old 01-11-2006, 12:42 PM   #61
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a light just went off

Another nice modification John. I too have thought that a small light to light that area while sitting on the couch would be both functional and ambient. I
would like to have a small light that only throws the light down too. As it is I either have to put the stove light on or use a night light. That area without the flourescent is dark.
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Old 01-14-2006, 02:00 PM   #62
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I don't know why ...

there was a nice hinged wardrobe floor in my 25 to access the water pump, but in the 28, the wardrobe floor is trapped under the walls. If I wanted to hinge it, it, it would be a major job to get it free.

In the 28, I must remove a drawer, lay on my belly, reach my left arm way back therough the drawer opening (I'm right handed), and work by feel to remove the filter and drain the pump.

I fixed this today by installing an 8" marine deck plate in the floor of the wardrobe, right over the water pump. I still have to remove the drawer, but the area is now well illuminated. I can see and easily reach the pump.

They had both screw out and pry out deck plates. I chose to use the pry out variety. Not the cheapest way to fix the problem, but it looks nice and was easy to install. They do make black deck plates, but not in stock in the 8" size.
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Old 01-14-2006, 03:51 PM   #63
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Wonderful Idea!

John, what a wonderful idea for all kinds of tight access spaces!
As you said, not cheap, but most good hardware simply isn't.
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Old 01-14-2006, 04:05 PM   #64
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Thanks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
John, what a wonderful idea for all kinds of tight access spaces!
As you said, not cheap, but most good hardware simply isn't.
It would be perfect for accessing the plumbing in a shower, wet bath, or tub in a rear-bath model. Totally waterproof if the mounting ring is well caulked during installation. In a floor, it is meant to be stepped on and has a non-skid surface molded in. They come in 4", 6" 8" and large sizes.
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Old 01-18-2006, 07:34 PM   #65
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Cabinet light

I had one of the automatic lights that are used in the wardrobes laying around in my shop. Since I modified the hanging closet in the bedroom into a linen cabinet by installing two shelves, I installed the automatic light in the linen cabinet tonight.

The photo was taken before I routed the wires. I obtained power from inside the double bottom of the cabinet over the window. I drilled from the linen closet into the space between the false and true bottom of the over-window cabinet. I then cut a couple of big holes that are concealed by the flourescent light to access the wires above the light. By using a stiff wire, it was easy to fish the wires from the new switch over to the openings and splice them into the wiress upplying the flourescent. I used stick-on wire mold to conceal the wires in the linen closet.
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Old 01-18-2006, 07:37 PM   #66
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still waiting for installation pix of the automatic peanut butter spreader!....
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Old 01-19-2006, 08:42 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska
I took out the folding TV table on the bedroom wall. That is one "omit" I would specify on a factory build, but I bought off the lot and there it was. A useless elbow-knocker.

I needed to cover up some ugly screw holes. I noticed that the Limiteds had a nice "chair-rail" type molding on that partition. I worked over a piece if 1/2" x 1 1/2" oak with my router, a little varnish, a few zaps with the nail gun,, and, voila, no more visible holes.

I'm out of projects for the time being, but I'm taking the trailer out day after tomorrow (1/4) for a few daysand I'm sure that I can come up with something else to change.
What a great idea John. If I ever figure out how to put the wall mount up for the LCD TV, I'll pull that folding table/mirror out also. That trim piece looks great.

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Old 03-08-2006, 08:54 AM   #68
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Next project

I have a very heavy 17"-screen laptop that I use on the foldout writing table, leaving the dining table free for meals. The writing table is held in the up position by a wire bail and, with all that weight, it does not feel very sturdy. A little like working on a trampoline.

Yesterday, I bought some 2"-wide 3/4" oak and an aluminum strip to build a replacement for the wire bail. I will build an essentially square frame with the aluminum strip rabbited at the top edge so that the strip engages the hook on the table top. When folded, the new frame will rest between the face-frame of the cabinet just like the wire bail and will not interfere with the folding chair storage.

I expect that this should give me a rock-solid writing table.
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Old 03-08-2006, 09:07 AM   #69
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Don't know John, pretty soon yer gonna get this unit just the way you like it and upgrade to a 30' or larger coach and someone is gonna get the perks of all that engineering.

Love the mods!
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Old 03-08-2006, 09:07 AM   #70
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Neat toolbag

Ever since the trailer was new, the big drawer under the refrigerator has been used as my tool chest, Now that modifications to the trailer have slowed, it is time to return that drawer to galley storage use and find another place for the tools.

Last week, I received an email ad from WoodCraft offering a $30 cloth toolbag for $9.99. It looked like a good bet, so I ordered one and it came yesterday. It is a really high-quality, heavy canvas bag with lots of pockets inside and out and a zip-open "basement" for larger tools such as hammers or large wrenches. Plenty of room for all of the tools that I currently keep in the drawer.

Nice thing about the cloth bag is that it can ride anywhere without damage to the contents or the trailer.
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