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Old 11-07-2005, 03:22 PM   #15
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Wire shelves

The two wardrobes are much deeper than required for hanging clothes; especially the wardrobe on the road side. I noticed that the clothes rods were attached with 2 screws at 45 and 225 degrees. By moving one screw, I was able to rotate the rod toward the door about 1 1/2" to leave more room behind.

I installed wire shelving at the rear of both wardrobes. I installed the wire shelves bottom-up to provide a lip so that items on the shelves stay put.

In my wife's wardrobe (the larger one, naturally), I installed a wide shelf with two plastic bins underneath for slippers and the like. There is a ledge on the left side and rear of the wardrobe, so the little legs on the plastic bins are cut as required so that the bins sit level. Above the ledge that accommodates the shower plumbing, I installed 2 narrow shelves for long items such as her umbrella. I made the narrow shelves from scrap pieces of the shelving.

In my wardrobe (the smaller one, naturally), I installed two wide shelves below and two narrow shelves above. The cat food and litter containers reside under the lower shelf with a piece of molding nailed to the floor to keep the containers from sliding out when underway. The narrow top shelves hold TP, paper towels, and similar items to augment the limited bathroom and galley storage.

My idea is not to carry more; just to better organize what we must carry.
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Old 11-07-2005, 06:05 PM   #16
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John you should be put on Airstreams payroll as a consultant. They could use some fresh ideas. You know, not "designer " ideas but down to earth,real world, "hey this really works" ideas., and looks good too.
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Old 11-18-2005, 05:10 PM   #17
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More shelf space

The overhead cabinets are hard to manage. I especially disliked the ones in the galley where I had to dig larger dishes out from under smaller items.

I wanted to store dishes vertically, but there is not space enough for the dinner plates. I compromised by storing the dessert dishes vertically and adding an upper shelf so that smaller items could reside above the dinner plates.

The edges of the dessert dishes rest on hard plastic molding. I used some white velcro fuzzy part to pad the strut by the dessert dishes. I also used white velcro fuzz to pad over the screw heads at the ends of the shelf. There is room behind the vertical dessert dish holder for lower items such as mugs.

The space is a lot easier to manage now. Time to go on to some other cabinets for the same treatment.
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Old 11-18-2005, 05:27 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craftsman
John you should be put on Airstreams payroll as a consultant. They could use some fresh ideas. You know, not "designer " ideas but down to earth,real world, "hey this really works" ideas., and looks good too.
When I worked as an engineer for IBM, everything we did had to go through 3 major tests before it saw the light of day; a "proof of concept test", a production prototype, and an actual production machine. It amazes me to think expensive things such as RVs are put on the road without any real testing program.

Problems such drawers sliding out when underway and small items falling behind the pantry in my old International 22 would be discovered and a fix worked out before a customer had to contend with the problems.

I'll bet they could get volunteers to actually use a new model for a month and report back problems and suggestions. I sure would do something like that.
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Old 11-18-2005, 05:34 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska
When I worked as an engineer for IBM, everything we did had to go through 3 major tests before it saw the light of day; a "proof of concept test", a production prototype, and an actual production machine. It amazes me to think expensive things such as RVs are put on the road without any real testing program.

Problems such drawers sliding out when underway and small items falling behind the pantry in my old International 22 would be discovered and a fix worked out before a customer had to contend with the problems.

I'll bet they could get volunteers to actually use a new model for a month and report back problems and suggestions. I sure would do something like that.
I second Craftsman's nomination of you as the official Airstream product tester. I bet it wouldn't take even a month of testing for a new model.

John
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Old 11-18-2005, 06:12 PM   #20
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A-men!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pahaska
Problems such drawers sliding out when underway and small items falling behind the pantry in my old International 22 would be discovered and a fix worked out before a customer had to contend with the problems.

I'll bet they could get volunteers to actually use a new model for a month and report back problems and suggestions. I sure would do something like that.
Yeah I'll volunteer and even go to Jackson Center. Some of these problems are SOOOOOOO obvious I'd spot them before I left the driveway!

On the new 25 FB, they finally noticed that the ole' "suicide door" won't open more than 90 degrees when the awning is out - slams into the back rail. Guess what, the new ones have the hinge forward... a design almost all other RV manufacturers have long favored because the door won't fly open and whack the side of the RV when underway.

A "hinge forward" door would also be a great idea on my 22 CCD. You'd better not let go of the door in a breeze if you've got your front dinette window open or it's gonna be bye-bye window and scratches on the door. I treat that window as non-operating just for that reason.

Tin Lizzie
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Old 11-18-2005, 08:15 PM   #21
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Very neat job John

My husband would love the valance lights to read his newspapers. Thanks for shedding some light on the matter. I didn't know that the wires were accessed in that manner. Are the radio wires there as well? How do you know all these things?! Tell me were you one of those little boys that took the toaster apart just to see how it was put together?
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Old 11-19-2005, 03:23 PM   #22
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Yes!

Quote:
Originally Posted by wheel interested
My husband would love the valance lights to read his newspapers. Thanks for shedding some light on the matter. I didn't know that the wires were accessed in that manner. Are the radio wires there as well? How do you know all these things?! Tell me were you one of those little boys that took the toaster apart just to see how it was put together?
My dad had a big workshop filled with all sorts of fascinating things and I was into every thing from about 12 until I left home. I tend to analyze everything I lay hands on and I don't hesitate to modify things when I figure I can improve on them. One result is the 30 patents I accumulated while working for IBM.

One great help is downloading the pdf files for the manuals and parts catalogs for the trailer. There are diagrams and parts lists for everything in it. The 2005 owners manual omits the wiring diagram , but it is in the 2004 manual and essentially unchanged.

The radio wires are pretty much restricted to the box in which the radio resides. You can get to them by removing the radio and the cage in which it mounts. The cage is held in by bent aluminum tabs that can be straightened by sliding a knife between the cage and the wood. You will find that the radio wiring is an absolute rats nest and best left alone.

On my 25, I attached to the radio wires, but it is nasty trying to get wires in there and keeping them concealed. The nice thing about attaching to the wires to the undercabinet lights is that the wires are very easy to conceal. There is a lot of slack on the wires between the cabinet bottoms, so it is easy to attach there.
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Old 11-20-2005, 11:17 AM   #23
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Vertical Dessert Plate Rack

Here is a drawing of the vertical rack for my dessert plates with the dimensions I used. I built it out of bits and pieces of wood that I had laying around the workshop. The end piece is a scrap of 3/16" plywood. The rest happened to be some rock maple cut from scrapped old theater organ pedal bars. I padded the top where the plates rest with some hard plastic molding, but some sticky velcro fuzz would do just as well.

I used some 1 1/2" wide white Velcro to pad the places where the plates might bang against the wall when underway, although the plates tend to rest at an angle and probably will not move much except maybe on a panic stop. I also put a little piece of the sticky Velcro fuzz on the strut that holds the cabinet door up just in case my enameled Airstream plates might bump against the strut on a rough road.

My rack is assembled with a pneumatic nail gun, but any sort of fasteners would do. The rack is attached in the cabinet with a screw through the 1/4" crosspiece. I placed it as close to the door as posssible and there is space behind for small items such as mugs.
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Old 11-22-2005, 03:24 PM   #24
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Another shelf

The front cabinet where the radio resides is a natural for addition of a shelf. My shelf is faced with hard black plastic molding and laminated with some scrap formica to conceal the fact that it is made of a scrap of cheap mahogany plywood.

This is a real easy place to attach a shelf, the radio box and the end of the cabinet are parallel surfaces..
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Old 11-23-2005, 01:21 AM   #25
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A bit of clarification please...

John -

Have been reading, with great interest!, your continuing posts about the mods that you have made on the trailers you ahve owned. Really like the ingenuity and naturally the construction that you use - looks great! Do have a question or 2 though.

I have a unit that is older than the ones you have worked on - mine is '92 34' Classic Limited. Saw the reading lights that you added to your units - noticed particularly on the radio shelf photo. Then it clicked, I need that sort of light in mine. Was the reference you made to the hidden wiring for those overhead cabinets in the end unit (can't find it again, sorry) or were you referencing something else. Also, since I currently have flourescents ( use less power right?) should I ditch them and go the directed ( halogen?) lights in your photo. Looking for better reading light in PM when the rest of the family is sleeping. Just curious on your thoughts.

Thanks again for all the documentation and posting of it, that you do. Even fires off a few neurons here once in a while.

Ciao

Axel
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Old 11-23-2005, 09:03 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverToy
John -
I have a unit that is older than the ones you have worked on - mine is '92 34' Classic Limited. Saw the reading lights that you added to your units - noticed particularly on the radio shelf photo. Then it clicked, I need that sort of light in mine. Was the reference you made to the hidden wiring for those overhead cabinets in the end unit (can't find it again, sorry) or were you referencing something else. Also, since I currently have flourescents ( use less power right?) should I ditch them and go the directed ( halogen?) lights in your photo. Looking for better reading light in PM when the rest of the family is sleeping. Just curious on your thoughts.
Ciao

Axel
The light you see in the radio shelf photo is the standard reading light that Airstream installs in the recent trailers. It is a good reading light for someone while sitting on the couch and does not unduly bother others in the trailer. You can order one of those lights from any Airstream dealer or look around the internet for a similar light fixture.

Your forward cabinet should have a double bottom. You can pop off the screw covers, remove the screws, and, with a wide blade like a putty knife, and carefully pry down the bottom of the cabinet to access the wires to the existing flourescent light. Install the new spotlight and connect to the wires to the flouescent with yellow tap connectors. There is usually a lot of excess wire to the existing lights so that it is easy to attach.

Another place to get power would be the wires behind the radio, but it is a lot harder to conceal the added wiring if you do this.
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Old 11-23-2005, 01:04 PM   #27
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Cabinet mod

I love the bedroom cabinet mod, How is it hinged. Other mods are great!!
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Old 11-23-2005, 01:48 PM   #28
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Hinges

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I love the bedroom cabinet mod, How is it hinged. Other mods are great!!
On my 25, I used a brass piano hinge full length. On the 28, I didn't have a piano hinge handy, and I used 2 common leaf hinges and filled in between the hinges with fuzzy of black self-stick Velcro. When the top is closed, All you can see is the black line of Velcro.
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