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Pahaska · 11-22-2011, 04:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim & Susan

John, I've been reading your good info here and in another thread concerning the Snyder fan assembly/installation. Links to Snyder aren't working for some reason. Can you tell me what size approximately that fan is at the bottom of the assembly? Also, that "down spout" arrangment, is there baffling inside that thing to direct air across that entire coil? Any info is much appreciated.

Jim

There is no baffling. The plastic down spout part is a sort of Vee shape and air goes to about 2/3 of the fins. The rest of the fins probably get some benefit from the fan airflow dragging more air with it.

The fan is about 4" square, as I recall.

This link just worked for me. Snyders RV Refrigeration - Home

Jim & Susan · 11-22-2011, 04:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pahaska

There is no baffling. The plastic down spout part is a sort of Vee shape and air goes to about 2/3 of the fins. The rest of the fins probably get some benefit from the fan airflow dragging more air with it.

The fan is about 4" square, as I recall.

This link just worked for me. Snyders RV Refrigeration - Home

Thanks, John. Sounds like a bit of Vernuli effect. And thanks for a working link. I didn't think to try a /home addr.

Jim

Schools Out · 11-22-2011, 05:42 PM

Pahaska, just discovered your thread. (read all 22 pages) Love your ideas for claiming all the storage possible from wasted/hidden spaces. You are one talented person!

slowmover · 11-22-2011, 05:56 PM

Yup, we needs to get PAHASKA and BOBThompson together to send to Ohio and shew them fellers how to really get'er done at JC.

richinny · 11-23-2011, 12:00 AM

john, i also just discovered and read this thread. you the man! :-)

i had to chuckle over some of your comments about having someone that has actually lived in an airstream do the designing. in the first month in my new trailer i have said a few times, "what were they thinking". lol.

it seems that some of your improvements have made it to the new models but i have to report that sharp edges are still here :-( i may have to start wearing a bike helmet and chaps!

i'll have to start a thread. my mods are limited to adjustments since i don't have your skills but i sure appreciate your artistic skills with wood!

Pahaska · 01-19-2012, 11:19 PM

The worst feature of the 28 is that the black water dump valve is too close to the rear tire and the actuating rod for the valve has a jog of 3" or 4" to get the handle away from the tire.

Almost from the start, I could easily pull the handle to dump the black tank, but I would always have to get down on one knee, reach under the trailer, and push the valve closed by grasping the rod. The thin aluminum rod was not stiff enough to push the valve closed using the handle; the rod would simply deform. Trying to lubricate the valve did not help appreciably. Others have had similar problems. I have griped about this in the past, but could never come up with a good solution.

At our last trip, the problem came to a head. When I pulled the handle to dump, the rod simply broke off at the bend closest to the valve. I was able to reach under and operate the valve by grasping the stub of the rod, but at 79 years old, I'm not at all fond of the getting down part, especially at a dump station.

I think I have a good solution. I will trim the straight rod stub and thread it. I have some strips of chrome-moly steel left over from a glider-building project some years ago. I'll make a flat steel extension that will go through guides to a handle out where I can reach it easily. The steel is plenty stiff and I won't have to worry about it ever bending or breaking.

I'll tackle the project this weekend and post some photos when I am done.

Silver Goose · 01-20-2012, 12:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pahaska

Airstream motorhomes have a neat electronic box that feeds the microwave and water heater. ...

I realize this is an older post, but I just had a chance to read this fascination thread from the beginning. This switch caught my interest in particular. Do you recall if there was a particular make/model on it, or do you think this is an Airstream only item? I'm not near any Airstream dealers.

Your mods are both innovative and practical, but also well thought out and compliment your trailer very well. Congratulations on your work and thanks for sharing them, especially the pictures.

Pahaska · 01-20-2012, 01:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silver Goose

I realize this is an older post, but I just had a chance to read this fascination thread from the beginning. This switch caught my interest in particular. Do you recall if there was a particular make/model on it, or do you think this is an Airstream only item? I'm not near any Airstream dealers.

I just recently copied the info on the face of the switch for another forum member. The way the box is installed, I could not read everything, but here is what I could read:
I can only read part of the lettering on the box because of the way it is mounted, Here's what I can read:

???? Energy Select Switch
INTELLEC
00-0714-000

Apparently, it is a common item in the motorhome world.

nickmeloy · 01-21-2012, 08:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Silver Goose

I realize this is an older post, but I just had a chance to read this fascination thread from the beginning. This switch caught my interest in particular. Do you recall if there was a particular make/model on it, or do you think this is an Airstream only item? I'm not near any Airstream dealers. ...

The electronic switch that you are considering is made by Intellitec. It allows two loads to be supplied from one 20 amp circuit breaker.

One load, in my case the microwave oven, is the primary load. The other load, in my case the water heater, is the secondary (sheddable) load.
Whenever the primary load is activated, the Intellitec 0714 electronic switch shuts off the secondary load and keeps it off untill the primary load has been shut down, then the secondary load is allowed to resume drawing current.

The following link may prove helpful in understanding the device. The installation is fairly straight forward if one has a basic understanding of 120 volt AC circuits and current sensing coils.

http://www.flemingsalesoem.com/intel...300714.000.pdf

Silver Goose · 01-21-2012, 11:48 AM

Thanh you for the info on the Intellitec switch. There seems to be adequate room for it behind my power distribution panel. Just have to decide how far up on the to-do list it should go.

girlscan2 · 09-23-2012, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pahaska

This morning, I put the tops on the twin beds. I used as much of the old queen top as possible. The curbside bed has just one seam, up in the curved portion. On the street side, I left the non-hinged part that is attached to the wall. Since it was fitted to the curve, that meant adding new pieces on both ends as well as piecing the last 8" at the front of the bunk. The pieced bunk is well supported by structure underneath to form a cabinet behind the old drawer opening that is separate from the area accessed by the outside door.

I still need to build two drawers and three drawer fronts to complete the rear cabinet.

Because the motion of the trailer tends to wear the mattress over screws or seams in the bunk top, I taped the seams with "Gorilla Tape." This stuff is really tough and sticks like glue. In the photo, I have not yet taped the seam in the curved area since I will need to temporarily remove that piece to trace a template to order custom mattresses.

I also insulated the heat duct in the non-heated storage compartment. The insulation will be wrapped with plastic removed from under the queen bed for protection.

I now have an amazing amount of storage, far more and more accessible than under the queen.

Thanks for all this info! I am in the process of redoing my twin bed area and seeing yours makes it a bit easier. Do you have storage above the beds? Mine currently has nothing but I want to use the space efficiently.

Pahaska · 09-23-2012, 09:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by girlscan2

Thanks for all this info! I am in the process of redoing my twin bed area and seeing yours makes it a bit easier. Do you have storage above the beds? Mine currently has nothing but I want to use the space efficiently.

Of course. there is the cabinet over the rear window that goes the width of the trailer. I kept both upper cabinets on the street side unmodified; the cabinet over the night table and the cabinet over the window. I rebuilt the lower bedside cabinet into an upper cabinet on the curb side against the bathroom wall. I am currently adding a wide cabinet over the window on the curb side.

I have an amazing amount of storage available. Not really to carry more things, but more storage means less clutter and makes it easy to find things I need.

girlscan2 · 09-24-2012, 07:42 AM

I'm hoping you will post pics of the storage areas. I don't have the over the window storage or anything above in mine so it will help me know how to plan for it. I'll have some under the beds but would love to put something over as well.

Pahaska · 09-24-2012, 08:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by girlscan2

I'm hoping you will post pics of the storage areas. I don't have the over the window storage or anything above in mine so it will help me know how to plan for it. I'll have some under the beds but would love to put something over as well.

I don't have any photos handy and the trailer is at the storage yard, but post #289 of this thread shows some of the upper cabinets.

You can put upper cabinets over the foot area of both twins and the cabinets can extend back almost to the windows. Just make sure that there is enough room over the foot area of the twins. The cabinets shouldn't come very far below the belt line of the trailer. Fasten the cabinets to the bulkhead, the wall, and the ceiling with multiple screws (lots of them). I use #10 screws into the aluminum through pre-drilled holes.

A cabinet across the rear is harder to do (mine was already there) since Airstream builds the cabinet and inner skin section and installs them as a unit That gives them a lot of area to attach the cabinet from the rear of the inner skin. You could put a simple shelf across the rear of the trailer, over the rear window, for lighter items such as folded blankets. A cargo net such as is used in car trunks would look nice and work quite well to keep items on the shelf in place under braking deceleration.

Pahaska · 09-24-2012, 08:20 AM

Post #271 also shows the upper cabinets and #269 and #270 show an upper cabinet under construction. Just look in that area of the thread.

girlscan2 · 09-25-2012, 07:25 AM

Love the bed area! Very nice job.

tinyhome · 10-08-2012, 09:19 AM

I love posts like this that give me new ideas on using every square inch of the trailer to its potential.

Pahaska · 03-12-2013, 08:23 PM

We have almost never used our oven except as a storage place for the toaster and the frying pans. A friend bought a Classic 28 just like mine with a 3-burner cook top and 3 drawers underneath in place of the oven. Hers is a 2004 and mine a 2005.

On the last day of a rally last week, we did a quick switcheroo. She now has my oven installed in her trailer and I have her cook top temporarily installed and 3 loose drawers plus a bunch of drawer slides and three rails to be installed in the spaces between drawer fronts.

Each rail between drawers was held in place by two pocket screws at each end. No glue. I backed out the pocket screws, leaving the rails held in place with only the cabinet finish. A quick whack with a padded hammer broke them loose without any damage.

Tomorrow is re-assembly day. I'll temporarily remove the cook top to give me easier access to line up the drawer slides

slowmover · 03-17-2013, 09:07 AM

Good for both of you!!

loechli · 05-31-2013, 02:49 PM

I have the Snyder fan kit to install like John shows in his pictures.

I have a 1972 27' international with 1 fridge door at bottom and small roof vent.

It looks like I will have to pull fridge to install. Anyone do this on trailer similar year to mine?

Also how do you attach the kit to the back of the fridge.

Steve