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Old 02-15-2007, 06:52 PM   #155
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Originally Posted by Pahaska
It took me 3 hours this afternoon to dope out an approach and make the mod. Most of that time kneeling on the bed.
yes, and how much of that was knappy time....
norby
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Old 02-15-2007, 06:54 PM   #156
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yes, and how much of that was knappy time....
norby
Not a bit. Except for talking with my next door Airstream friend for 15 minutes, I worked by butt off all afternoon.
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Old 03-03-2007, 08:56 AM   #157
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Photo of power switch box

Here is a photo of my installation. The new box just wedges in above the breaker box and I put 2 long screws in through the ears on the new box to hold it in place. The white wire goes from the 20a breaker in the breaker box to the input of the new box. One yellow wire is to the water heater, the other to the microwave.
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Old 03-06-2007, 12:33 AM   #158
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More info please!

John -

Clear explanation of the latest mod, great photos, and the 'expected' terrific looking execution of the aforementioned.... but can you post the 'basic' wiring that you modified. I mean, I understand the 'premise' of what the "switch" does, but am unclear on how the box adds to the situation ie. does it maintain the 'clock' on the MW even if the AC is running? I guess my question goes to the basic - will this be an addition only when plugged in, or will it also benefit when boondocking? Maybe, I am not as clear on this mod as I think I am...?!

Thanks for any clarifications!

Thanks as usual John!

Axel
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Old 03-06-2007, 08:32 AM   #159
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Originally Posted by SilverToy
John -

Clear explanation of the latest mod, great photos, and the 'expected' terrific looking execution of the aforementioned.... but can you post the 'basic' wiring that you modified. I mean, I understand the 'premise' of what the "switch" does, but am unclear on how the box adds to the situation ie. does it maintain the 'clock' on the MW even if the AC is running? I guess my question goes to the basic - will this be an addition only when plugged in, or will it also benefit when boondocking? Maybe, I am not as clear on this mod as I think I am...?!

Thanks for any clarifications!

Thanks as usual John!

Axel
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First, an explanation of the problem. It's 100+ degrees, the AC is running steadily, the WH is on electric power, and my wife starts the microwave. POW!!! Either the breaker in the trailer or the breaker on the service box outside blows.

Now, add the switching box. The water heater is getting power and the microwave is getting just enough juice to keep the clock and the front panel operating. My wife starts the microwave and the switching box temporarily depowers the water heater and gives full power to the microwave. No breakers blow. When the microwave stops, full power goes back to the water heater and the microwave again gets just enough to keep the front panel operating.

The wiring change is simple. The leads to the water heater and microwave are disconnected in the breaker box and reconnected in the switching box. A short piece of #12 2+ground wire is connected from the 20a breaker just freed up in the breaker box to the switching box. Voila! You are done.

Obviously, the change does nothing unless you are connected to external AC power. If boondocking and using a generator, it would prevent overloading the generator, however, most folks when boondocking would not use the electric water heater when on a generator.
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Old 03-06-2007, 09:12 AM   #160
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Switching gadget

John, I saw your post on this the other day and asked my dealer to order one. As you originally said to GMORRIS (who is my dealer), this should be standard equipment because the circumstances you described will happen.

Thanks for the heads up.

Greg
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Old 03-06-2007, 11:04 AM   #161
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Slight modification

I have a wide-screen laptop that I keep set up on the fold-out writing table when we are stationary for more than a day. Unfortunately, the laptop takes up most of the table and there is very little room to use the mouse (I hate the touch pad on the laptop).

I noticed that the top of the chair storage had a large overlap that could be easily reduced to give me more mouse room. When we returned Sunday from our 2 weeks on the road to Big Bend, I removed the writing table and today I disassembled the table and used my band saw to reduce the width of the cabinet top by a little over 1". Not much, but any extra space is welcome.

I had to cut a small notch on the upright at the door end to gain the space. I couldn't believe how many staples were used to attach the two 3/4" square strips where the cabinet is attached to the wall. A few blows with a dead-blow hammer was all it took to knock the strips loose. I hammered the staples flat and used screws to attach the first strip and then used my pneumatic nailer through both strips to attach them securely to the cabinet top. Certainly as strong or stronger than the original.

The laminate on top of the writing table shows a bit more now, but that doesn't matter since I'm going to replace the laminate table with a solid oak table in the very near future and I will be happy to have the wood table edge show. I think the present laminated table looks terribly cheap and I can gain a little more table width and length when I build the new wood table.

Before I permanently replace the table, I want to install a doorbell (standard on the current models).
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Old 03-07-2007, 09:43 AM   #162
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Doorbell

I bought the neat little doorbell button surround that is on the current Classics (don't di it; the price will curl your hair!), a lighted button, and a bell. So far, I have the button mounted and wires run to the forward end of the writing table housing where I have installed the bell itself.

The chairs do not reach to the extreme forward end of the table housing, and I will install a wood block in there to protect the bell. The partly covered location of the bell should help prevent it from being too loud in the confines of the trailer.

I still have to route the wires to the nearest source of 12v power. I intend to put in a toggle switch in the 12v circuit to turn off the lighted button when the trailer is not in use or we are boondocking.
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Old 03-07-2007, 10:16 AM   #163
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Mods to your 28' Classic

How do you attach those mods to the walls?? Do you just use sheet metal screws into the alum ( which I understand is on both sides of the metal studs.
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Old 03-07-2007, 10:23 AM   #164
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How do you attach those mods to the walls?? Do you just use sheet metal screws into the alum ( which I understand is on both sides of the metal studs.
Rich G
The button snaps into a 5/8" hole drilled in the outer skin. The wires are led through an insulated hole in the inner skin, through a self-stick plastic cable way stuck inside the top of the writing table box, to the front end of the writing table box. The bell is mounted inside the wood front face of the writing table box.

As long as you don't directly hit a rib, it is easy to put screws into the inner skin. It takes a pre-drilled hole if you are using a screwdriver, but if you are using a power driver, the screw goes through the soft aluminum quite easily.
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Old 03-11-2007, 03:16 PM   #165
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A couple of more small changes

We now travel with 2 cats and the new cat is a "hider". We had to dig her out from behind the converter, under the couch, several times. and we ended up on the last trip with all of our pillows stuffed behind the couch to keep her out of there.

This morning, I temporarily removed the 2 bins at the ends of the couch and brought them home for modification. They came out easily with the removal of about 6 screws each. I installed 3/4" square poplar strips 12" from the floor along the couch side of the bins. On these strips, I screwed bamboo flooring left over from the last trailer to make a shelf that reaches toward the couch frame. I curved the forward end of the strips to match the trailer curvature. A kitten could still get under the couch, but I dare any grown cat to get in there.

In addition, I replaced the 12" drawer slides under the couch with 18" slides. I had done this on my last trailer, also. This easy mod ($15) gives access to a lot of unused space between the battery boxes. In there, we keep bulky, but seldom-used things like our awning lights there in plastic bags. The extra slide length makes it easy to access the space.
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Old 03-28-2007, 09:35 AM   #166
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Tired of bumping my head

John, I follow this thread closely for the obvious reason.

The wall cabinet just above the bathroom vanity (not the upper mirror cabinet) was getting in the way when I brushed my teeth. My bald head was getting bumped a lot!! So, I took it down and split it in half vertically. Re-mounted the right half without modification. Reduced the depth of the left side (which is directly over the sink) by 2 inches and re-mounted it. Lost some storage but no more head bumping and it looks good. I'm at work so I don't have any pics to post.

Two remaining major projects are to convert the queen to twins and "wall in" the sink/toilet area. Did a mock up with cardboard and like the way it feels. I will remove the bedroom sliding door and us it for the door to the toilet area. I think some of the other floor plans have a very similar setup to this.

Greg
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Old 03-28-2007, 11:42 AM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ptrvr
John, I follow this thread closely for the obvious reason.

The wall cabinet just above the bathroom vanity (not the upper mirror cabinet) was getting in the way when I brushed my teeth. My bald head was getting bumped a lot!! So, I took it down and split it in half vertically. Re-mounted the right half without modification. Reduced the depth of the left side (which is directly over the sink) by 2 inches and re-mounted it. Lost some storage but no more head bumping and it looks good. I'm at work so I don't have any pics to post.

Two remaining major projects are to convert the queen to twins and "wall in" the sink/toilet area. Did a mock up with cardboard and like the way it feels. I will remove the bedroom sliding door and us it for the door to the toilet area. I think some of the other floor plans have a very similar setup to this.

Greg
Interesting mod on the cabinet over the sink, I also have to be wary when brushing my teeth, but we couldn't possibly spare the cabinet space. I installed a partition between the 2 cabinet halves to keep my wife's stuff out of my end. By the time I store electric razor, electric toothbrush, deodorant, toothpaste, and my medicines, there isn't any space left.

I'm surprised that you want to box in the toilet and sink. The big, walk-thru bathroom is our favorite feature of this model trailer. Besides, we have room for the cat box in front of the shower that wouldn't be feasible without the walk-thru feature.

To each his/her own on the queen vs twins, but I much prefer the queen. Converting will leave you with very little outside storage.
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Old 03-28-2007, 12:56 PM   #168
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Greg we have a hinged door on the bathroom and like it. It is tighter when closed but with it opening out towards the main part of the Airstream we can leave it opened up to the bedroom too. I like not seeing the toilet when we are not using it, but as John says it makes the space much smaller than the pass through baths. However I close the bedroom shades and the door makes it's own divider to make the bedroom shower and toilet and sink area one private area while in use. In fact if we put a strip of wood on the opposite wall with a door jamb we could forego Airstreams folding screens and have a real two way door.

(Now I have to tease you...) Maybe it's because I am a woman, but you can stand upright and look in the mirror while you brush your teeth and get to be a better long distance spitter, then you won't hit your head.
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