2003 Classic

Pahaska · 11-19-2003, 12:09 PM

I have started the process of individualizing my 25 Classic to my personal wants and needs. One of the first changes was to build a new, larger magazine rack to replace the small rack on the galley end. The new rack is 17 1/2" wide, utilizing all the space between the cabinet edge and the fire extinguisher. The original small rack has been moved to the wall separating the wardrobe from the bedroom. This has almost tripled the rack space I have for books and maps.

The rack was constructed from red oak, stained with 3 coats of golden oak, and varnished with door varnish. In the photo, it is out in the sun for the final drying of the varnish.

Pahaska · 11-23-2003, 10:44 AM

The cable coax input is in the compartment where the AC cable is stowed on a slide-out tray. The AC cable wraps for stowing, leaving a large empty space in the center of the tray. I will pop-rivet a small metal box in the empty space to containthe cable coax when not in use. I think there will be sufficient space to also put in some Velcro ties to hold the 50 to 30 Amp dogbone. Two more things that can be stored at the point of use and don't have to be somewhere else in the trailer.

There is an unused space at each end of the couch about 3 1/2" wide by a foot high by 2 feet deep. The curbside space will hold a 3-bottle wine rack and the roadside space will hold 2 plastic cases that were intended to hold firearms.The plastic cases are foam lined and can neatly hold all sorts of seldom-used odds and ends that would otherwise clutter up the few available drawers such as small tools and my onboard collection of nuts, bolts, screws, and electrical splices.

Pahaska · 11-23-2003, 02:32 PM

Just came in from the workshop after building a knife block to be mounted alongside the spice rack. I had previously moved the spice rack forward about 4 1/2" to make room for the knife block.

The slotted portion of the block is built from 3 pieces of 5/4" red oak. The slots were cut on the table saw spaced 3/4" in a 18" piece of stock. I then cut 2 8" pieces from the 18" length, faced them together, and glued them. The slots are tailored for my knives and are 1/8" wider than the blade width.

I then ran the laminated block through the planer and fastened it to a piece of 1/2" oak with my pneumatic nail gun. That way, there is no glue squeezeout to worry about.

As shown, the piece has the first of 3 coats of Golden Oak stain to get it as dark enough to match the trailer interior, It will then get a coat of door varnish before mounting.

Pahaska · 11-25-2003, 02:03 PM

Has anyone fitted any sort of latch on the sliding bathroom door. The space is so confined and the door slides so easily that there is almost bound to be a disastrous exposure at some point in time.

I looked at sliding door latches at HD and at my local hardware store, but they only fit doors that are 1 3/8" and thicker. This door is barely 1" thick.

j54mark · 11-25-2003, 04:11 PM

I can't be absolutely sure, but I believe my '85 has a vinyl strap and snap that serves as a door "lock". We've never used it, though.

Any kind of hardware is going to be a tight fit, that's for sure.

Mark

Pahaska · 11-25-2003, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by j54mark
I can't be absolutely sure, but I believe my '85 has a vinyl strap and snap that serves as a door "lock". We've never used it, though.

Any kind of hardware is going to be a tight fit, that's for sure.

Mark

There is "a strap and a snap" to hold the door open, but absolutely nothing to hold it closed except a small amount of friction and inertia.

linc54 · 11-26-2003, 06:43 AM

How about using velcro on the edge of the door and door frame?

**jcanavera** · 11-26-2003, 07:48 AM

John, my 2001 Safari used a little velcro spot on the door and the wall. When you slid the door closed the velcro spots joined. It kept the door shut!

The bad side was that velcro did a job on your clothes and occasionally would snag if you rubbed on the "latch" side of the velcro.

Jack

Pahaska · 11-26-2003, 12:15 PM

I had thought of Velcro and may use it short term, but I would like to install a real privacy latch at some time.

I searched the net and found several manufacturers that make very suitable latches for marine use that work in doors from less than an inch thick on up. So far, I haven't found any marine retail outlets that carry them. I'm going to ask at our big lock shop in town and see if they can order one for me.

Pahaska · 12-11-2003, 09:55 PM

I found a tiny, super-thin, magnetic catch at McMaster-Carr and installed it. It has 6# of holding force. The latch would be perfect except that there is nothing to keep the door from moving outward quite a bit if the door is bumped and then the catch often releases.

What I will do is put a retainer on the floor to prevent the door from moving outward and that should solve the problem. There are plastic sliding door guides that shoul work quite nicely. In fact, I think I have one in the shop somewhere.

Pahaska · 12-11-2003, 10:02 PM

The lower cabinet by the bed is just about useless. It is so deep and so narrow that nothing can be organized in it. I first thought of making a sliding drawer, but the face frame makes the opening so narrow that there wouldn't be much space left.

What I am going to do is hinge the top of the cabinet and install dividers to form several bins for socks, undershorts, and the like. I'll never keep much more than an alarm clock on the cabinet top, so that hinging the top will not mean moving a lot of items.

When I am working on the top, I intend to narrow the top by about an inch since it overhangs the cabinet quite a bit. By making the top narrower, it will clear the hanging locker above when opened and also make bed making a lot easier.

Pahaska · 01-27-2004, 10:09 PM

While pulling out the drawer under the couch, one side stuck and the drawer cocked. When I tugged on the drawer, both slides disintegrated, scattering little ball bearings all over the place. The slides were both history.

When I looked under the couch, I realized that there is a fairly large wasted space between the battery boxes; about 3' wide by over a foot deep and a foot high.

In my shop, I had a long pair of full-extension 200# slides that I bought for a project 25 years ago and never used. With a little hole drilling, I was able to mount the long slides in place of the short broken slides. I can now pull the drawer out well clear of the front of the couch. Cost so far, $0.00.

I have a sturdy plastic box of appropriate size that I am going to hang on the back of the drawer. I'll put casters the back of it so that it doesn't drag when the drawer if moved. Now, I will have a great place to stow all the small tools and spare parts that are currently in the drawer. Everything I need is in my shop, so the final cost will still be $0.00 for a great bit of extra storage space.

RoadKingMoe · 01-28-2004, 06:05 AM

John, in our trailer, that large volume of air is there I suspect to keep the converter from heating it up too quickly. Our converter is between the battery boxes.

Pahaska · 01-28-2004, 07:49 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by RoadKingMoe
John, in our trailer, that large volume of air is there I suspect to keep the converter from heating it up too quickly. Our converter is between the battery boxes.

My converter is off to the left side and there will still be quite a bit of open space.

Thanks for the heads up, though. If the converter fan starts coming on too much, I'll simply put a ventilation grille in the left end of the sofa front.