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Old 09-20-2014, 06:27 PM   #15
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60 psig should be fine for many reasons. PEX itself is rated well over 100 psig at temperatures an RV sees. The limiting issue comes from the connections and surges from slugs of water propelled by compressed gas. As Protagonist stated, the manual calls out a 60 psig limit. This gives a margin typically seen in applications covered by plumbing codes.....


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Old 09-20-2014, 06:39 PM   #16
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All true, but one thing to understand is that air compressors are rated along two parameters: pressure and volume. (This is analogous to volts vs amps.) For blowing out water systems, volume is more important than pressure. Cheap compressors never produce high volumes. That is why I continue to recommend the procedure I mentioned of letting a little air build up before opening each valve. A volume of air is being stored in the system, which improves effectiveness. Just don't overdo it if you are using a high-pressure pump.
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Old 09-20-2014, 06:40 PM   #17
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Agreed on delivery method. I like to let it build...then open to provide the impulse.


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Old 09-21-2014, 07:06 AM   #18
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Protag, I have no problem with 60 psi, but we're talking about owner who are not rocket scientists. And some fittings might leak if not handled properly. 15 psi will move the water out just takes longer. I happen to have my own shop so I'm lucky and can control the pressure I use from a gas station sized compressor.
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Old 09-21-2014, 07:51 AM   #19
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Protag, I have no problem with 60 psi, but we're talking about owner who are not rocket scientists. And some fittings might leak if not handled properly. 15 psi will move the water out just takes longer. I happen to have my own shop so I'm lucky and can control the pressure I use from a gas station sized compressor.
In practical terms, the air pressure used can be at least the same pressure you can handle from a municipal water line, which if memory serves is about 45psi. Any scuba diver can tell you, pressure is pressure, whether the medium is air or water.
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Old 09-21-2014, 02:35 PM   #20
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Except air is more compressible than water. Water under pressure becomes "hydraulic pressure" and will act differently. Air has more or a "cushion" than liquid. That's why gas station "lifts" are usually air over oil. Means that compressed air is pressing down on a hydraulic oil resoviour and this is how it list, via air over oil.
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Old 09-21-2014, 02:38 PM   #21
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Except air is more compressible than water. Water under pressure becomes "hydraulic pressure" and will act differently. Air has more or a "cushion" than liquid. That's why gas station "lifts" are usually air over oil. Means that compressed air is pressing down on a hydraulic oil resoviour and this is how it list, via air over oil.
True. I should have said "static pressure." Your plumbing will withstand at least 45psi of static pressure, which is the kind of pressure you have with no faucets or valves open.
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Old 10-10-2014, 11:30 PM   #22
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After reading the manual and all these posts about winterizing, we feel ready to follow instructions for storing our new 2014 Interstate (named Walter) this winter when we get home from North Carolina the first of November. However, we have just realized that we probably need to consider how to handle the freezing temperatures while we are parked for a week visiting family up there. We'll have 20-amp shore power, and have tank heaters, but think that may not be enough to protect the lines from freezing. Should we plan to drain/blowout/winterize w/RV antifreeze for the week our AI will be mostly parked in the driveway near Asheville, NC?
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Old 10-11-2014, 12:59 AM   #23
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I use a small 1500 watt heater in those conditions and I've never had a problem keeping the interior warm enough to prevent freezing. The heater has a fan associated with it to help circulate the air.
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Old 10-11-2014, 05:39 AM   #24
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We have been in temperatures in the teens in our Interstate, and never had anything freeze inside.

If you are not going to be staying in it, a space heater or your furnace running at 60 degrees or so would be sufficient.

If it's gong to get really cold, I would open under cabinets where tanks and pipes are, to allow better circulation of heat.

The general rule of thumb: if it's warm enough for you, it's warm enough to keep interior pipes from freezing.


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Old 10-25-2014, 02:06 PM   #25
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I am doing the winterization for the first time this year.

I have drained the hot water heater and left it open, also turned the hot water by-pass valves under the rear bench.

I was told to "find the low point valves and open them", to drain all water from the fresh water tank. Where are these???

I don't think Doug ever did this, and he also ran a bit of fresh water into the tank to mix with the antifreeze solution, he said because that was what you are supposed to do. The antifreeze solution I bought says not to dilute it.

I can see no more than a couple of gallons of water in the bottom of the fresh water tank. I have 3 gallons of antifreeze. If I can't find the low point valves and pour that into the remaining water, and run it thru everything as directed, will it be sufficient to keep things from freezing??

Thanks in advance.


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Old 10-25-2014, 02:17 PM   #26
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I was told to "find the low point valves and open them", to drain all water from the fresh water tank. Where are these???
Not sure where they are on yours; the layout is a lot different. Does the owner's manual say where they are?
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I can see no more than a couple of gallons of water in the bottom of the fresh water tank. I have 3 gallons of antifreeze. If I can't find the low point valves and pour that into the remaining water, and run it thru everything as directed, will it be sufficient to keep things from freezing??
There should also be a drain plug on the bottom of the freshwater tank, that you can open to drain out the remaining fresh water. For the sake of convenience, you might want to run the pump, and pump out the fresh tank until the pump starts sucking air, and THEN drain the remaining couple of quarts out of the fresh tank. But then you'd have to drain the gray tank again, too because all of that fresh water you pumped out has to go somewhere.
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Old 10-25-2014, 02:45 PM   #27
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I thought about running it thru and out the grey system, but would have to get the blasted hot water tank cap back on to run the pump, then off again. Grrrrrr.

Would the plug for the fresh tank be underneath, like yours?? There is no way I could get myself underneath the motorhome.....and then back out again. There is no room to manuever....likely to get myself stuck or dislocate something, and the rescue squad would have to come after me and pull me out.

I haven't pulled the owners manual out. I thought someone here would know and jump in.


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Old 10-25-2014, 03:00 PM   #28
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Okay, lazy me has pulled the owners manual and am going to try to locate the drains.



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