2019 30' International
Pennsylvania
, Pennsylvania
Join Date: May 2016
Posts: 1,242
Quote:
Originally Posted by thewarden
I too blow all the lines and drain the low point drains. I also pump antifreeze through the lines via the pump and am always surprised to see how much water comes from each faucet before the pink starts flowing. This tells me that blowing the lines alone does not do the trick, at least up here where winter temps can get to -40 and any leftover water could spell trouble.
This has been my experience. I have a large air compressor, regulated, and blow the lines then when I run pink through there is always a good bit of water that pushes out prior to pink showing up
This has been my experience. I have a large air compressor, regulated, and blow the lines then when I run pink through there is always a good bit of water that pushes out prior to pink showing up
Hi
Which is why you need to go through the "each side of each faucet (and drain) one at a time" blow out process a couple of times before you get things reasonably dry.
Which is why you need to go through the "each side of each faucet (and drain) one at a time" blow out process a couple of times before you get things reasonably dry.
Bob
Exactly!
If compressed air is used correctly, there will be no water left in any of the lines anywhere.
It takes time and patience, but the benefit is no antifreeze residue whatsoever.
Note, there are two types of RV antifreeze; ethanol or propylene glycol based. Both are pink, the ethanol based stuff is usually cheaper.
However, the ethanol based stuff leaves a stronger aftertaste, is flammable and does contain a small amount of propylene glycol, which confuses things.So, if you want to make sure it is pure propylene glycol, look for the presence or absence of flammability warning on the label.
If you are going to stop pouring antifreeze into the fresh water tank (and I recommend you do stop this) to circulate it, you still need to protect elements of the pump system that may have water in it.
After I drain the fresh water tank, I run the pump until it runs dry. I then disconnect the hose from the tank to the pump inlet and gently blow any remaining water in the hose back into the tank. Keep an eye out for any rubber washer that might fall out of the hose end. I also remove the plastic cap to the pump filter reservoir to remove any trapped water and to clean the filter.
. . .
After I drain the fresh water tank, I run the pump until it runs dry. I then disconnect the hose from the tank to the pump inlet and gently blow any remaining water in the hose back into the tank.
. . .
Well done -- this is a subtlety which many folks miss IMO. Just to be clear, this is accomplished by putting one's mouth on the hose, not by hooking up the compressed air to that line.
Living in northern VT, a very detailed winterizing of our AS is mandatory. We have a 2014 FC, 27ft. If anyone would like a data base of my Winterizing Procedure just email me at: sgraner@aol.com,
Although it's a step by step chart for our specific AS, it can easily be revised for all late model AS. (free)
I do not see in any manual where all these valves are described and their locations, much less which ones are which? How do you know what and where they are? TIA.
__________________
“I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list”.
Rosalita WBCCI #12814
Florida Unit #027, Southeastern Camping Unit #012, Florida Suncoast #129, Stella's Sisters, Grapes & Grains, Indie Streamers
I do not see in any manual where all these valves are described and their locations, much less which ones are which? How do you know what and where they are? TIA.
NATIVE143 - I can not speak to the docs supplied with your FC or Sport, but on my Interstate MH, all the AS User Manuals show them clearly in diagrams and describe their locations. So I have to assume you had yours documented there too. You may have just missed them if you scanned your manual rather quickly. Should be a Section for Storage & Winterizing.
I'd like to chime in from a medical perspective. Putting automotive antifreeze into your consumer water lines can be dangerous if not thoroughly flushed. Yes, it may have a nice, residual sweet taste coming out of the sinks, but that is dangerous; especially those who already have kidney problems. Most antifreeze is made by mixing water, with additives and a base product like Mono ethylene glycol (MEG) or Mono propylene glycol (MPG)., which are both, not safe for human consumption. The "pink stuff" is made with organically consumable Propylene Glycol, water, Glycerol and dye. Not knocking anyone's winterizing techniques, just recommending cautious precaution. Happy hibernation! ⛄️[emoji846]
I'd like to chime in from a medical perspective. Putting automotive antifreeze into your consumer water lines can be dangerous if not thoroughly flushed. Yes, it may have a nice, residual sweet taste coming out of the sinks, but that is dangerous; especially those who already have kidney problems. Most antifreeze is made by mixing water, with additives and a base product like Mono ethylene glycol (MEG) or Mono propylene glycol (MPG)., which are both, not safe for human consumption. The "pink stuff" is made with organically consumable Propylene Glycol, water, Glycerol and dye. Not knocking anyone's winterizing techniques, just recommending cautious precaution. Happy hibernation! ⛄️[emoji846]
Yikes -- I certainly hope no one is using automotive anti-freeze to winterize their Airstreams. We should all be talking about RV anti-freeze which is safe.
__________________
- - Mike
--------------------------
2024 Airstream Interstate 19e AWD
Previous: 2013 Airstream Interstate 3500 Ext Lounge
I'd like to chime in from a medical perspective. Putting automotive antifreeze into your consumer water lines can be dangerous if not thoroughly flushed. Yes, it may have a nice, residual sweet taste coming out of the sinks, but that is dangerous; especially those who already have kidney problems. Most antifreeze is made by mixing water, with additives and a base product like Mono ethylene glycol (MEG) or Mono propylene glycol (MPG)., which are both, not safe for human consumption. The "pink stuff" is made with organically consumable Propylene Glycol, water, Glycerol and dye. Not knocking anyone's winterizing techniques, just recommending cautious precaution. Happy hibernation! ⛄️[emoji846]
Quote:
Originally Posted by OTRA15
Most folks here are aware of the difference IMO.
SURGPSYCH - your words of Caution & Precaution are well taken. As OTRA15 has stated, everyone I have encountered in this thread (and other related threads) are well aware of the correct "pink stuff" rv antifreeze. I have read & re-read at least 3 of these winterizing threads in this forum. I did not get any impression that anyone was even mildly hinting on using regular automotive antifreeze. If I am wrong and someone is implying that, I would be the 1st to try to call them out. But many others would beat me to the front of the line But again - good reminder for 1st timer winterizers. Tell you what, the folks here made it easy for me, I am no longer a newbie at it
I briefly looked at the bypass kit, but didn't see how it would fit. I assume it goes between the pump inlet and the hose coming up from the fresh water tank - correct? How do you fit it in there since the pump is tight against the floor. Did you set the pump up on blocks to provide extra vertical space for the bypass?
TITUS - same question here. I thought of getting same for my water pump. But I checked my last pic and noticed MAYBE I have a little room to move left. Not sure how yours is set up. My Flojet is rather bulky. It just depends on how much room the bypass kit needs between pump strainer and input hose. If someone can post an installed bypass kit, it may be more informative for Interstate owners. I think those who have successfully put bypass kits have the bigger spaced TT's.
A minor point of clarity. The kit used in conjunction with the pump is a "Winterizing Kit"
A "Bypass Kit" is used in conjunction with the water heater plumbing. Making it easy to "bypass" the water heater when winterizing.
I installed a very quiet VSD (variable speed) water pump four years ago. I added the Camco bypass kit at the same time. Here is links to product listing and a video from Camco.
It works great and makes protecting the water pump a 2 minute task. I drain the fresh water tank and water heater, then blow out all the water lines with compressed air and add about a cup or two of RV anti-freeze to the water pump.
I don't have photos of the finished installation. I do have a photo of the pump and bypass before I installed it and a photo of the pump in position, but it doesn't show the line that goes to the RV anti-freeze jug. It is a tight fit but works.
Also attaching a sales sheet on the water pump. It is so quiet that I can hardly tell when it is running. It is a great upgrade that I highly recommend.
Hope this helps,
__________________
- - Mike
--------------------------
2024 Airstream Interstate 19e AWD
Previous: 2013 Airstream Interstate 3500 Ext Lounge
I installed a very quiet VSD (variable speed) water pump four years ago. I added the Camco bypass kit at the same time. Here is links to product listing and a video from Camco.
It works great and makes protecting the water pump a 2 minute task. I drain the fresh water tank and water heater, then blow out all the water lines with compressed air and add about a cup or two of RV anti-freeze to the water pump.
I don't have photos of the finished installation. I do have a photo of the pump and bypass before I installed it and a photo of the pump in position, but it doesn't show the line that goes to the RV anti-freeze jug. It is a tight fit but works.
Also attaching a sales sheet on the water pump. It is so quiet that I can hardly tell when it is running. It is a great upgrade that I highly recommend.
Hope this helps,
MIKE - Thank you for pics. Nice. Too bad I won't be able to easily do it. I have that drain cutting across my path which I need to move water pump towards. With my strainer perpendicular to pump, the bypass kit would push it way left, hit drain in less than 2". I do not want to re-route the drain. Will need to think of a more novel approach to do this. And no matter what, it will require many more fittings that also àdds more length. The quick connects on my Flojet are not threaded. So I also need to add threaded fittings to both strainer side and hose side to properly mate with Camco. Uggh!
NATIVE143 - I can not speak to the docs supplied with your FC or Sport, but on my Interstate MH, all the AS User Manuals show them clearly in diagrams and describe their locations. So I have to assume you had yours documented there too. You may have just missed them if you scanned your manual rather quickly. Should be a Section for Storage & Winterizing.
There are no diagrams in my manual. Just a description, "hot and cold valves are located under dinette seat". But no indication of which one is which. Worse yet,they are located under another line, so almost impossible to reach and turn anyhow. Poor layout. Still looking for diagrams elsewhere.
__________________
“I haven’t been everywhere, but it’s on my list”.
Rosalita WBCCI #12814
Florida Unit #027, Southeastern Camping Unit #012, Florida Suncoast #129, Stella's Sisters, Grapes & Grains, Indie Streamers
There are no diagrams in my manual. Just a description, "hot and cold valves are located under dinette seat". But no indication of which one is which. Worse yet,they are located under another line, so almost impossible to reach and turn anyhow. Poor layout. Still looking for diagrams elsewhere.
NATIVE143 - Yeah, in the Interstate, it is really tight too. I am only 5'4" with skinny arms and small hands. It was still a chore turning my valves, especially since they were so tight coz they are new, never been turned before. In ours, the red lines are hot and white lines are cold. Best to you on search.
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But again - good reminder for 1st timer winterizers. Tell you what, the folks here made it easy for me, I am no longer a newbie at it 
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