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Old 12-07-2016, 09:14 AM   #1
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Using water in winter 2014 AI

Hello. I'm curious about traveling with water in sub freezing temps. I'm aware of the tank heaters but I wonder how much battery they use when overnight hook up is not available. For example, if I parked at a hotel overnight, could I leave the tank warmers on or would that probably drain the house battery or just be risky in general?

Also, sorry for maybe a crazy question, but is there some type of antifreeze that you can mix with water and fill into the freshwater tank? Allowing at least the toilet to be used?

I appreciate your feedback and your experiences with this.

Christina
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Old 12-07-2016, 09:46 AM   #2
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We are happy to help you with questions and problems here, but you must pull out your owners manual, and read it thoroughly, as it will best advise you on things such as this.

Interstates vary some, from year to year.

As a general rule, if your furnace is running at a comfortable temperature, that should keep your pipes from freezing.

Be sure you have plenty of propane, and your batteries are fully charged, if leaving it overnight in freezing temps.


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Old 12-07-2016, 09:54 AM   #3
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I should have added in the example that I would park AI at hotel and not be present in the vehicle overnight.
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Old 12-07-2016, 10:04 AM   #4
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We will be driving our Interstate to Telluride, CO at the end of the month. The tank heaters will kill your batteries if you run them overnight without power. I did the math once and I think I came up with 4-6 hours before they batteries would be discharged lower than you want, but I would not swear to that. My solution for our upcoming trip is to purge all the water from the plumbing with regulated compressed air (standard winterizing ritual). Then I will add about 5 gallons of RV antifreeze (pink stuff available many places including walmart) to the grey tank and put 10 or 12 gallons of it in the fresh water tank so we can use the toilet and flush with the antifreeze. We are going to carry a 5 gallon water jug to wash hands with in the sink. Before leaving it overnight, I'll run a bit more antifreeze from the sink faucet to be sure the plumbing between the sink and the grey tank does not a pool of water sitting in it anywhere. This will be the first time I have adopted this strategy but I feel confident in it.

In the past we have traveled with lows into the upper 20's without doing any precautions beyond running the tank heaters while driving (the alternator can keep up with the demands of the tank heaters) and leaving the furnace on set to 65 all the time. Obviously you have to make sure you don't run out of propane for the furnace.

One freeze point to watch out for is the black tank flush line, it's easy to forget. I will blow that out with air and pump some antifreeze through it before I leave.

Oh I should mention that you need to run some antifreeze through your macerator before exposing the rig to the freezing temps too.
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Old 12-07-2016, 10:45 AM   #5
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A better option than a hotel might be to stay in a campground with electricity.


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Old 12-07-2016, 11:02 AM   #6
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The batteries will not support the heater or tank heater over night. So don't consider that as an option.

You call survive and night below freezing given some limitations. If the lowest temperature during the night is of short duration, say 3 or 4 hours, and not drop 25 I would have no problem with that. The problem begins when the duration below freezing was preceded by near freezing temperature during the day and or extends into the next day.

It all come down to a judgement call. keep in mind that it takes 80 times as much energy to cause 32 degree water to freeze as it took to get it from 33 degrees to 32 degrees and that you have a large thermal mass in the van that all has to be cooled surrounding the water system.
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Old 12-07-2016, 11:42 AM   #7
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I just winterized my 2006.
Original plan was to drain everything, blow out with air and call it good.
BUT- even with front a bit lower, the fresh tank won't drain all the way and getting the inlet to the pump off and moved seemed like a good place to break tubing...

SO- I elected to up the antifreeze in the fresh tank and pump a bit through the system. (Some in grey and black tanks, traps also)

So Russ' option could be the best for you.

I wasn't sure from you post if you are planning to use water again soon, or not for quite awhile.
I will be using it ago an soon, but it is cold for here (27-32) and didn't want to chance it.

Like Maggie says, each year and even model is a little different. I don't beleive I have a tank heater for grey water, but sounds like some do.
(As an aside I noted that the 'city water' input must have a one way valve in the regulator, since it holds air pressure- a bit of a eye opener when draining hot water tank)
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Old 12-07-2016, 04:35 PM   #8
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Blowing out lines

what type of compressor do you recommend to blow out lines. I recall reading max of 60lb, is that correct?
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Old 12-07-2016, 06:01 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HowieE View Post
The batteries will not support the heater or tank heater over night.
Not sure what you mean when you say heater, but the furnace in an Interstate is propane fired, only the fan runs off the battery. The draw is minimal and certainly won't flatten the battery over night.

Yes late model Interstates have both grey and fresh water heating pads (that WILL drain the battery in short order) while the black tank is inside the cabin so keeping the interior warm ensures that the black tank is protected. Only the macerator and associated drain lines are left fully exposed.

I have an inline air pressure regulator thing-y that I put in line with the air hose so I'm not certain what pressure I am regulating it to ... I think a search would find you the recommended pressure. 60 might be a little high??? I never apply the air without a fixture open so I never really put any pressure in the system, just flow.
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Old 12-07-2016, 06:11 PM   #10
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I have a large commercial air compressor.
I Thought 60 was high also, but...

Here is what my 2006 manual says;

After the water has stopped running from the drain lines, fresh water tank, and water heater, apply at least 60 lbs. of air pressure at the city water inlet. Be sure the toilet valve and all drain valves and faucets are open and pump outlet hose is disconnected. This can be accomplished at a service station. The goal is to force anyremaining water from the water heater and remove any water that may be trapped in low areas.
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