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Old 06-30-2016, 01:15 PM   #43
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2006 22' Interstate
League City , Texas
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Originally Posted by Jbray333 View Post
...Since the existing skid plates are designed to shear off the attachment bolts (and have done so numerous times already) the system seems to be working as designed. Only change I want to make to current design is to drill 1/8" holes in the plates and attach keeper cables to keep from losing one again.
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I haven't drilled holes for keeper chains yet (it's on my list) but I did refurb our skid plates and got extra bolts for when the inevitable shear-off occurs. Bolt specs are in the pic.

One thing I noticed in this process is that the existing holes in the plates were not drilled perpendicular to the plate (quality...). Therefore upon switching one plate for the other or perhaps flipping in place, they wouldn't let the bolts pass through cleanly. Rather than trying to figure out which plate originally went on which side or with which end facing forward, I over-drilled the holes to straighten them out.

That's potentially worth knowing / checking in advance unless you potentially want a bit of extra hassle on the road (the first time I tried to wiggle the original hex bolt through the stubborn hole, I eroded the threads and ruined it).
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Old 07-01-2016, 09:05 AM   #44
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2006 22' Interstate
San Diego , California
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 23
I decided to just go with the stock design, with a slight twist. Took 3/8" stainless steel plate, drilled mounting holes as well as a third hole about 1.5" centered from upper edge and attached a SS keeper cable. Since it was 3/8" think, I didn't bother to weld on a wider skid plate. I also made the skid plate 1/2" shorter than stock, which keeps it from as many strikes. Using SS bolts which haven't sheared off on two light strikes but am confident they will work as intended for a hard strike, as I easily twisted it when I got the nut cross threaded initially. Will report back once we return from our next 10K trip this fall.

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