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Old 01-07-2016, 12:09 PM   #21
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Some abridged feedback that I received by email rather than via this thread:

"When we ground out [by tail-striking the Interstate on ferry ramps], usually the stainless steel bolts holding the skid plates to the frame shear, and we have even had the whole PVC pipe [holding the dump hose] fall completely off … We carry a good supply of these [stainless steel] nuts and bolts as spares of course…"

Intrepid soul!!! And I thought *I* was an envelope-pusher!



This would be my own analogous stream of consciousness in a similar scenario:

"Hmmm, do I feel like shearing off my skid plates today? Am I really *feeling* that as an option?? Let me contemplate... uh, mmmmaybe not..."

But I WILL be adding those extra nuts and bolts to my tool kit, just in case I change my mind.

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Old 01-08-2016, 12:11 PM   #22
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Likewise, has anyone had experience with the ferries on the Outer Banks on NC - especially the small ferry from Hatteras to Ocracoke Island ? Have 31 ft Soverign and would like to spend a week or so at Ocracoke
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Old 01-08-2016, 01:08 PM   #23
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Out of interest, I looked up Galveston and saw that there was a tide range of just a few feet.

Here we have tide ranges up to 13 feet. As a result, our (ocean) ferry ramps are all two-stage. First the crew adjusts the ramp from shore, and locks it in place, and then they adjust the short ramp to the vessel. With small ferries, there can be a big difference in draft between loaded and unloaded, and if there is a low-clearance vehicle the crew stops traffic, adjusts the main ramp, and then adjusts the small ramp again. In areas with less range in water level, docks may be just have single stage ramp, and that has more potential for problems with front and rear clearance. Also, even if there is a two stage ramp, the crew may need to be asked if they can adjust it for a low clearance vehicle.

Upshot is, consider the design of the ramp and not just the vehicle.

Jeff
This is a good description of how these ramps are supposed to be operated.

In looking at the picture posted by the O P. It appears that the proper adjustment to the main ramp has not been done. Making for the steep angle of the fairing ramp. The number of scrapes on the ramp indicate this is a common issue there. How to work around careless operators is more the issue.
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Old 01-09-2016, 05:07 AM   #24
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This is a good description of how these ramps are supposed to be operated.

In looking at the picture posted by the O P. It appears that the proper adjustment to the main ramp has not been done. Making for the steep angle of the fairing ramp. The number of scrapes on the ramp indicate this is a common issue there. How to work around careless operators is more the issue.
That might explain why other pictures on the internet do not show as dire an angle at the same ramp. It may represent more than a tidal effect.

I also found it interesting that, in response to my questions, TxDOT gave me the direct phone number of the ferry control tower, rather than responding in its typical centralized manner (questions like mine are why they have a public information office in the first place). Perhaps I'm supposed to talk to the duty crew in order to get a feel as to whether they'll be rigging the ramps correctly on any given day.
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Old 01-09-2016, 07:53 AM   #25
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Perhaps there is a limit to their adjustment on a particular site. And a call to them would give the driver of a low clearance vehicle insight to the best tide level for safe loading?

I did my first ferry crossing last summer from Port Townsend to Whidbey Island with my 345 with dingy in tow. I was a bit concerned about the looong overhang as well as the dingy making the transition. But the ramps were well set up an all went smoothly. If at primium $s. Would have cost $20 less if unhooked and driven separately but I was traveling solo.

Got placed at the very front of the ferry, so had a great view out the front.
Plus was finally able to enjoy one of the pleasures of motorhome travel. Being able to go make a sandwitch and get a drink while under way. A benefit not usually available to the solo traveler.

Cheers Richard
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Old 01-09-2016, 09:20 AM   #26
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Took the ferry from Essex, NY to Burlington, Vt last summer. Getting on and off the ferry with the beast was a piece of cake. The view of the Green Mountains was fantastic.Click image for larger version

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Old 01-15-2016, 09:59 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John Oliver View Post
Likewise, has anyone had experience with the ferries on the Outer Banks on NC - especially the small ferry from Hatteras to Ocracoke Island ? Have 31 ft Soverign and would like to spend a week or so at Ocracoke

We took the Hatteras to Ocracoke ferry and the Ocracoke to Cedar Island ferry and enjoyed both! No problems loading or unloading. I highly recommend venturing out there!


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Old 01-15-2016, 07:52 PM   #28
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We've taken the Seattle to Bainbridge Island ferry a number of times and it is as civilized getting on and off the ferry as the island is gentrified! I lost my skid plates a few years ago so I am hyper conscious of access/egress issues.
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Old 03-19-2016, 06:44 AM   #29
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Has anyone had experience crossing Mobile Bay (Dauphin Island to Fort Morgan) with an Interstate Ext.? Headed down to Bellingrath Gardens then on to FL next week.
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Old 04-27-2016, 08:16 PM   #30
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Replacement skid plates?

Drove up a ramp and sheared off one of the two skid plates attached to my 2007 Interstate. Have been searching for weeks for a source to replace one. Anyone have a source?
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Old 04-27-2016, 08:37 PM   #31
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Drove up a ramp and sheared off one of the two skid plates attached to my 2007 Interstate. Have been searching for weeks for a source to replace one. Anyone have a source?
You're talking about the skid plates attached to the hitch receiver?
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Old 04-27-2016, 09:30 PM   #32
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Drove up a ramp and sheared off one of the two skid plates attached to my 2007 Interstate. Have been searching for weeks for a source to replace one. Anyone have a source?

You can replace both with skid wheels, also known as skid rollers or skid castors. Available widely.


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Old 04-28-2016, 03:58 AM   #33
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You can replace both with skid wheels, also known as skid rollers or skid castors. Available widely.

...
The fit of existing products may not be correct, though, because apparently that's not a universal Sprinter bumper that's on the back of the 2007 Interstate.

I will ask my husband, who is on backshift right now - he did some preliminary research. We haven't followed the evaluation all the way through yet, but this is on our to-do list, to replace our plates with wheels. And we have a 2007 so presumably our eventual solution will be consistent with what the OP needs.
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:28 AM   #34
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You're talking about the skid plates attached to the hitch receiver?
Yes. I spoke with The Sprinter Store at length without recommendations other than have a replacement manufactured locally. Estimate was $200. Ouch.
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Old 04-28-2016, 07:41 AM   #35
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You can replace both with skid wheels, also known as skid rollers or skid castors. Available widely.
I have considered that, but concerned that a fixed hard attachment even further back attached to the hitch could give be more problems with stresses on the frame. Since the existing skid plates are designed to shear off the attachment bolts (and have done so numerous times already) the system seems to be working as designed. Only change I want to make to current design is to drill 1/8" holes in the plates and attach keeper cables to keep from losing one again.
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Old 04-28-2016, 11:25 AM   #36
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I had 2 wide 3 to 4 inch trailer rollers welded to the lowest portion of frame that hang down 4 inches. They have saved the day frequently. AEW
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Old 04-29-2016, 05:49 AM   #37
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I have considered that, but concerned that a fixed hard attachment even further back attached to the hitch could give be more problems with stresses on the frame. Since the existing skid plates are designed to shear off the attachment bolts (and have done so numerous times already) the system seems to be working as designed. Only change I want to make to current design is to drill 1/8" holes in the plates and attach keeper cables to keep from losing one again.
You make a very good point that I think is worth discussing further. I agree that there are alternate scenarios that my gut instinct tells me might put too much localized stress on the chassis in a way that it was never designed to handle. However I also suspect that the existing skid plates are not optimally designed - they probably represent the cheapest solution, not the optimally-engineered solution. They have hooked ends, which means that in certain scenarios, they compound the strike problem by providing more friction and grab potential than they ought to (try driving over a compacted earthen or asphalt speed bump with the wrong radius of curvature).

If we could somehow combine a skid wheel that would still break away as designed when the stresses got too high, that might work better. Minimize the friction problem while still being responsive to the pressure limitations.
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Old 04-29-2016, 06:11 AM   #38
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If we could somehow combine a skid wheel that would still break away as designed when the stresses got too high, that might work better.
Spring-loaded rather than breakaway, so it gives a little to minimize impact loading, while staying attached.

A trailing-link attachment design probably works best for that.
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Old 04-29-2016, 09:22 AM   #39
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Thanks, Protag, for the trailing-link idea. Wanted to run an alternate idea across your engineer's mind. Considering solid steel skid wheels mounted to the hitch assembly but put a cushion between the wheel mount plate and the underside of the bumper. Looking at hockey puck as that cushion. Soft enough to help absorb the initial shock yet hard enough to handle the high impact force. Thoughts?
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Old 04-29-2016, 11:05 AM   #40
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Thanks, Protag, for the trailing-link idea. Wanted to run an alternate idea across your engineer's mind. Considering solid steel skid wheels mounted to the hitch assembly but put a cushion between the wheel mount plate and the underside of the bumper. Looking at hockey puck as that cushion. Soft enough to help absorb the initial shock yet hard enough to handle the high impact force. Thoughts?
If that's the direction you're leaning toward, how about the same type of rubber motor mount as used on your engine?
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