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Old 12-20-2014, 09:20 AM   #57
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....and you will need to convert from US to metric fittings.
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Old 12-20-2014, 12:35 PM   #58
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...... It's certainly easier than hack-sawing off the faucet handle or installing a gray water tank emergency relief valve......

If you have a vise, a hacksaw and a file it is sure easy to make this a permanent fix that you don't have to buy and rely on and additional device to solve this simple problem.


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Old 12-21-2014, 06:19 AM   #59
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If you have a vise, a hacksaw and a file it is sure easy to make this a permanent fix that you don't have to buy and rely on and additional device to solve this simple problem.

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We do, but many folks do not consider themselves to be that handy, nor do they possess the equipment needed to make modifications (or as one person noted, they're simply not interested in hack-sawing such an expensive vehicle).

That's why I'm interested in exploring a variety of approaches to the issue. The water leak detector device is an interesting option because it could potentially address a number of risks simultaneously (for instance, my local MB dealership warned me that roof leaks are common in Sprinters... not sure if this is the case with Interstates, but my CSR advised me to keep a sharp eye open for them).

The existence of this AC539 tap adds an interesting twist to the perspective on this whole issue. Airstream reportedly continues to install the problematic tap to this day in new Interstates rolling off the assembly line. I guess I assumed they were doing that because they had little choice. In fact, it would appear that they do have a choice in the matter. They could be ordering their sinks from he manufacturer with the other tap instead.
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Old 12-21-2014, 07:35 AM   #60
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We have to keep in mind that the class of product, a van conversion (ie the Interstate) is fairly unique in the USA (ie has a small market), and so there there are very few options for components available here. Whereas in Europe there are very common, and also many conversions are done on used vans so parts are available.

It means you can pick any of the component suppliers (e.g. Dometic, but also Thetford and others) and they have ten times the range of products available for is product class outside the US. Airstream are only buying what, Dometic, make available, because Dometic only sell a limited number of options from their product line, because there is a limited market here. In this case if you search for faucets for Dometic sinks, in the US you will only find the one that is fitted, search in Europe and there are 'tens' of options.

As you can see from my profile I don't have an Interstate, but I am having a 'shorty' Argosy rebuilt with all modern systems, and so far, for every major internal system I wouldn't compromise on what Dometic, Thetford etc sold in the US because there was a better suited Dometic, Thetford etc product sold elsewhere, that isn't Airstreams fault.
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Old 12-21-2014, 09:33 AM   #61
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I retired from 40 years in the manufactured housing industry which evolved from the earliest days of RV production. Most of those forty years were spent with high end MH manufacturers with the last ten years spent as the general manager for two different MH production plants.

There were plenty of suppliers for everyday and common MH parts. When we found the upscale parts we wanted, we oftentimes discovered that the supplier could not supply the volume or provide on time delivery for those products. It was very frustrating and I am sure Airstream faces those same issues.
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Old 01-02-2016, 07:22 AM   #62
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I'm not sure where to place this follow-up comment because there doesn't seem to be a thread dedicated to leak prevention and intervention generally (just topical threads... overflow leaks, window leaks, sliding door leaks, improper a/c installation leaks, mystery leaks). But this was a good thread, memorable, so I'll put it here.

When folks on the trailer forums recommended battery-operated leak detectors, did I get them? Nope. I was a Nope Dope for concluding that I didn't need to buy every last gizmo that someone cited somewhere on a thread.

But here's the simple calculus association with this one. These things are about ten to fifteen bucks apiece. When (not if) you have your first leak, I guarantee you that it's going to cost you much more than ten or fifteen bucks in damage and hassle factor if you aren't alerted to it as soon as it starts.

One of our PEX joints under the sink decided that New Years Eve would be *the* perfect time to spring a slow but steady leak. By the time we found it, much of the stuff stored in the cabinetry was soaked and I was standing in a puddle of water.

This kind of outcome is unnecessary. This morning I ordered two of the Doberman Security detectors (BORG link there... I ordered directly from the manufacturer and got 2 for about $25 inclusive of shipping) - that was one of the brands recommended on the WDYGFYTT thread.

I don't know which brands would be best for the Interstate, but some of them are definitely designed exclusively for home use because they are intended to sit on the floor or under a cabinet, and not get accidentally bumped or slid around due to vehicle motion. That Doberman brand has a pad-like device that you stick to the floor and the unit itself can be stashed in a nearby convenient location.

May you all have a dry and prosperous 2016.
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Old 01-02-2016, 11:55 AM   #63
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Great advice Interblog - I've got this on my todo list.


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Old 01-02-2016, 03:04 PM   #64
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Here's another option that covers more area.

Honeywell WaterDefense Water Leak Detection Alarm-RWD41 - The Home Depot

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Old 01-02-2016, 05:34 PM   #65
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Oh, I *like* that. An extended sensing area would help with nose vs. tail being slightly elevated depending on camp site, because both areas would be covered. When this happened, we were ever so slightly nose-down, so the flood came forward and soaked the sliding door mat and the dog's bed as well as the goods stored under the counter. If it had instead flowed aft, it would have soaked (gulp) our pillows which are stored in an Ikea tote bag under the couch.

Incidentally, our issue seems to have been a fitting that either worked its way loose with road vibration, or was never properly tightened at the factory. Our previous owners never used the hot water system and I only started using it on the next-to-last trip, so the vehicle may have been born like that. It was the fitting joining the PEX to the stainless flex hose attached to the faucet. My husband tightened it and put it under city water pressure today back at our house, and there was no more leak. One bit of troubleshooting done, X number of other potential weak links in the chain to be discovered in the future.
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Old 01-17-2016, 07:35 AM   #66
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Someone on another thread said that they like visuals. Here's one of this Honeywell leak detector installed. I forgot to mention on it that I bundled and velcro'd the detector's excess length of communication line to the PEX lines right below it.
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Old 01-19-2016, 08:59 PM   #67
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You will get earlier detection if the sensor cord touching the surface that may get wet.
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Old 01-20-2016, 08:23 AM   #68
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Had the same issue with our 2006 T1N. I used a small hex wrench to remove the faucet handle and rotated it 90 degrees. Now hot is horizontal and cold is vertical facing down. Push towards back of sink for "on". Not possible to have this issue now.
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