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Old 12-01-2018, 01:17 PM   #15
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Received SureCall antenna kitting specs

Received SureCall antenna kitting specs. You can see for yourself the gain specs for each frequency range in attached table

SC110W - Indoor rectangular chocolate bar for standard vehicle (-2.7 to -5.96 db gain)
SC202W - Outdoor stuff by magnetic for standard vehicle (-3.16 to -5.65 db gain)

SC120W - Indoor whip for rv (+1.2 to +3 db gain)
SC288W - Outdoor omni directional for rv (-0.52 to -2.92 db gain)
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Old 12-01-2018, 02:43 PM   #16
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Nice job Alex! Really appreciate having you on the forum tackling technical stuff
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Old 12-01-2018, 03:02 PM   #17
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Looking at this system for my trailer if the Airstream retrofit doesn’t become available or stable before I take delivery. Presumably if you have a MiFi device you could affix that to the chocolate bar and connect internally to its network, right?
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Old 12-01-2018, 04:14 PM   #18
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Alex
Good point about location. I was just thinking about installation convenience, not antenna separation. We too would use it mostly from the front seat.


Regarding the Winegard, they must have changed designs. I was able to unscrew my disc, relocate the bracket, and then re-install the disc. There were no locking tabs to contend with.
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Old 12-02-2018, 10:49 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Titus View Post
Alex
Good point about location. I was just thinking about installation convenience, not antenna separation. We too would use it mostly from the front seat.


Regarding the Winegard, they must have changed designs. I was able to unscrew my disc, relocate the bracket, and then re-install the disc. There were no locking tabs to contend with.
TITUS - Yeah, they sent me an unpublished de-install process. I will try to post later when I find it. Basically, the tabs snap past the guide grooves with an internal lockring. Once locked, chances are removing the disc will destroy the tabs (not entire unit). So a new casing can be purchased and the inside electronics moved. It would've been nice if they just used a set screw or 2.

BTW - I was ready to sacrifice/destroy that Wineguard if SureCall said it was ok to use thatcabli g/connectors. Glad it didn't happen that way coz my outdoor would've been sitting g right on top of my indoor
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Old 12-02-2018, 11:28 AM   #20
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Internal wiring and outdoor mounting

Internal wiring and outdoor mounting

After 12 hrs. (3pm to 3am) of removing interior panels, some cabinet hardware, some selected & judicious sheet metal & cabinetry drilling, etc. etc. finally got the 40 ft. long cable run from C/S rearmost corner of AI to the front overhead cabinetry. The outdoor antenna is not yet completely bolted down. I have an idea to incorporate it INSIDE the awning rear cap. But waiting for SureCall to confirm it will not reduce it's gain.

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The coax follows the top rail in C/S all the way to B-pillar then crosses the ceiling to exit right behind front Samsung tv. The booster will sit inside the tv mounting support box and antenna will hang downward, perfectly centered between driver & passenger seats & 2 mid-row captain's seats. This is the absolute best location for our driving & travel needs. Not having as good reception in bed/couch is not necessary for us as we do all our cell usage in the front seating areas whether driving or stationary. Also, this gives a better location for outside the sliding door reception.

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I would not want to do this again. It is a big PITA to tackle. You will need more than the standard screwdrivers and drill. You need a full complement of Torx bits to completely remove the B-pillar panel. ALSO, you need a full complement of fishing tools and even used my wife's surgical extended & bent forceps to help fishing wire. It is also very useful when the trim clips detach & fall down the B-pillar cavities during removal. They won't disappear, rather they just sit in an area that is easier retrieved with very skinny long tools or skinny magnetic pickups.

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Old 12-02-2018, 11:42 AM   #21
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Interstate surgery
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Old 12-02-2018, 11:46 AM   #22
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I just got to Naples and meet with Lew Farber tomorrow. Tentatively, I was planning on having him install WeBoost along with my solar and battery upgrades. I'll ask about this other option. I have Tmobile and I think it will help east of Texas; going west, I'll probably have to change carriers. My biggest problem with bars is in campgrounds. I'm pretty good on all freeways except West Virginia mountains.
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Old 12-02-2018, 03:09 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mansderm161 View Post
I just got to Naples and meet with Lew Farber tomorrow. Tentatively, I was planning on having him install WeBoost along with my solar and battery upgrades. I'll ask about this other option. I have Tmobile and I think it will help east of Texas; going west, I'll probably have to change carriers. My biggest problem with bars is in campgrounds. I'm pretty good on all freeways except West Virginia mountains.
MANSDERM161 - I am not up to speed on which carriers are good on west vs east coast. Been stuck with Sprint for ages, due to very nice family plan thru son-in-law who is a manager there. I didnt realize how well the new cell boosters help. Whichever one you buy, it will be big boost to signal (no pun intended). Just be sure Lew gets max separation between indoor & outdoor antennas to maximize its effectiveness & prevent oscillation issues. FYI horizontal & vertical spacing counts in separation figures.
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Old 12-02-2018, 03:26 PM   #24
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Old 12-03-2018, 06:34 PM   #25
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Booster mounted behind front tv

Booster mounted behind front tv

Booster is now mounted in it's perma spot. It's in the cavity created by front tv mounting cabinetry. Perfect spot for it.
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Antenna sticks down perpendicular during use.
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Flips up when needs to.
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Then swings out of the way to the side, flush against forward compartment framing.
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Old 12-14-2018, 11:21 AM   #26
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FINAL UPDATE (hopefully)

FINAL UPDATE (hopefully)

Hoping this is the last time I have to open up my interior panels. Due to some overwhelming abundance of free time (since AI is hibernating until after holidays), I decided to bite the bullet and attempt the shortest run from the C/S rear roof corner to the middle of front overhead compartment. My original run estimate had a generous allowance of 3-4 " per turn (lateral or vertical), which came close to 29-30 ft. The more direct route with the least amount of turns saves me about 8-9 ft or 21-22 ft. run. SureCall only sells 10, 20, 40 etc. cables and my kit comes with 40 ft. A local shop can fabricate the cable to my specs. But the pricing was such that I was better off purchasing the crimper and at same time get 90° N-type connector so I won't bend the cable too tightly for the outdoor antenna connection. Final location was on the exterior of the rear awning cap. Had to bend the bracket a few degrees so it was perfectly plumb. Added few extra bolts to the cap/base to further secure the cap to its mounting base. AS secures cap with1 set screw & 2 strips of industrial velcro, that seemed to be good enough, I just wanted redundancy for an expensive antenna

Why did I go through this, rather than just go with SureCall Tech Support recommendation of just coiling the excess 18-19 ft.? For one, the booster is behind the front tv bracket enclosure and there isn't much more room there. And I would have to wind it up pretty tight to even try. And the tv would end up crushing that big bundle for it to engage the latches. The physical space issue could result in an electrical & transmission issue. Besides, it looks so much better with it cut to spec & just a few inches slack on both ends.
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Old 12-15-2018, 08:38 PM   #27
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The shorter your RF cable, the better (in a duplexer there are other factors, not here)- especially with higher freqs.

Some of those cables/terminations can be harder to do a proper crimp than others. A poor crimp can make a huge difference. I always used a wattmeter to assure no excessive reflective power.

It will be interesting to see how you like it after a few months use. Sounds pretty good so far.

Around here- Sprint is awful, the best is Verizon with AT&T getting better.
Often pick up Canada, which used to cause lots of calls to take roaming charges off. At least that doesn’t happen all the time now.

Mark
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Old 12-15-2018, 09:17 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotus54 View Post
The shorter your RF cable, the better (in a duplexer there are other factors, not here)- especially with higher freqs.

Some of those cables/terminations can be harder to do a proper crimp than others. A poor crimp can make a huge difference. I always used a wattmeter to assure no excessive reflective power.

It will be interesting to see how you like it after a few months use. Sounds pretty good so far.

Around here- Sprint is awful, the best is Verizon with AT&T getting better.
Often pick up Canada, which used to cause lots of calls to take roaming charges off. At least that doesn’t happen all the time now.

Mark
LOTUS54 - so glad someone here agrees with me that the shorter, the better; of course the caveat being I have enough distance between indoor/outdoor antennas to prevent oscillation. I was having a tough time convincing SureCall Tech Support of this as they non-chalantly said "absolutely no problem just coiling your extra 19 ft. in a softball-sized" cable mass sitting on top of booster. Wwhat? Was he asleep during Transmission Theories 101 in college? I am no Transmission & RF Propagation expert but one would think they would know better than saying stuff like that.

Anyways, since you mention Sprint, I don't know if Verizon/ATT is better here coz I have only had Sprint forever via the family plan of son in law who is a Sprint manager in CO. I wonder how the merger with TMobile will affect?

I never had my own transmission metering equipment, since it wasn't my field plus I had friends who had them (remember I worked in HP Computer division and had old college buddies who were in HP Test & Measurements division, one of the best test equipment around - I miss those days with free access to any test equipment ). But those friends are in Silicon Valley. So no easy access to them now. But when I visit son in law in CO after winter, he said he can have their regional tech folks who do their installs do the measurements to check my setup and minimize losses if they can. The good thing about having them test it is they have the latest equipment I would want to use: variable signal sources, latest power meters, spectrum analyzers, and network analyzers. All for free
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