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Old 06-01-2016, 10:24 AM   #15
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Operationally they are the same. 100 is much shorter. Resin, since there is less, will need more frequent replacement. But if you are planning to take it with you I would probably get the 100 size. Much more portable. Replacing resin isn't that hard to do.
Thank you for advise!
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Old 06-01-2016, 05:10 PM   #16
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Ordered 100 Gal system, and as a topicstarter will report upon its arrival and testing. Thanks everyone for involvement in the thread.
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Old 06-01-2016, 08:51 PM   #17
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Had my new Evoqua tank delivered today and asked the tech how many gallons of water it was good for. 900 gallons. I pay $30/month and order a new tank when the tank sensor tells me to which is a year or so.
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:04 PM   #18
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Ro

You folks are so funny - 200 gallons indeed!

So "de-ionized water" is Reverse Osmosis water. Water is forced by pressure through a membrane with vewy vewy tiny holes in, so only the water, and not the salts and other stuff can get through. So when the water dries, nothing is left behind, i.e. no spots!

Same thing as under your sink.

The 100 gal or 300 gal will be a supposed measure of how many gallons per day the system can produce.

Toweling dry has the same effect, as virtually nothing is left on the vehicle to evaporate and leave pounds of salts behind.
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:39 PM   #19
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DI water Is Not the same as RO water.
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:24 AM   #20
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Ron beat me to a reply. CR uses resin to de-ionize and also filter the water. If you have a water particulate meter the CR will be 000 until the resin starts to 'wear out'. Easy to replace resin. RO is what BTB said. Many RO systems also have additional filters. But you don't want to drink DI water. Bad for your health, pets, plants and the like.
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Old 06-02-2016, 10:35 AM   #21
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Question How about.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by BTB View Post
You folks are so funny - 200 gallons indeed!

So "de-ionized water" is Reverse Osmosis water. Water is forced by pressure through a membrane with vewy vewy tiny holes in, so only the water, and not the salts and other stuff can get through. So when the water dries, nothing is left behind, i.e. no spots!

Same thing as under your sink.

The 100 gal or 300 gal will be a supposed measure of how many gallons per day the system can produce.

Toweling dry has the same effect, as virtually nothing is left on the vehicle to evaporate and leave pounds of salts behind.

.......water from the AC? It must be worth something.


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Old 06-03-2016, 08:10 AM   #22
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Condensate from the A/C is essentially distilled water - should be fairly de-ionized - worth a try.
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Old 06-03-2016, 09:01 AM   #23
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Condensate from the A/C is essentially distilled water - should be fairly de-ionized - worth a try.
Just how much condensate does your A/C produce?
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Old 06-03-2016, 01:21 PM   #24
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Just how much condensate does your A/C produce?
Haha )))
Free spotless car wash... on the 1st of September every year.
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Old 06-03-2016, 02:55 PM   #25
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Just how much condensate does your A/C produce?
In NOLA in July, probably a lot.
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Old 06-03-2016, 03:21 PM   #26
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The CR system seems like an expensive way to do an easy job. I've won Porsche Concours events with no fancy equipment, just a bit of elbow grease.
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Old 06-03-2016, 04:22 PM   #27
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Roughly a dollar a gallon for DI water. You could use RO water from your under-sink unit for only the very final rinse to achieve much the same result.
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Old 06-03-2016, 07:47 PM   #28
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A spotless car wash must be something you owners of black vehicles worry about.

I washed my silver Interstate yesterday to get it clean, photo below. Today it rained most of the day and it sits outside. I never worry much about making it spotless as with 67,000 it has more than a few dings now.
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